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Am I correct in thinking that under the lemon law one could take the car in to have the shifter lubed 4 or 5 times after becoming stranded and then get one's money back or a new car? If only one person did this I suspect there would soon be a recall and we all would get new shifters.

All joking aside this and the improved battery are typical examples of a hidden warranty, if you complain enough, you get the upgrade. If you just put up with the problem then they get away with doing nothing. This is why a new car buyer should call, report or otherwise document EVERY fault however minor during the warranty period. Be an annoying, nagging, pain in the a$$ to the dealer for every little problem, hold their feet to the fire and firmly insist that they live up to their responsibilities.

Why should I have to buy a $60 Battery Tender to keep the battery in my new $18k car up to charge when they have a improved replacement but are keeping it a secret? Why should I have to take the time to keep going into the dealer to get my shifter lubed when there is an improved part but it's kept a secret?
 

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Don't know if this is relevant to your problem. Folks have reported poor am reception due to a bad AM amp fro the factory. But, I assume that would have been there from day 1. Anyway, those posts say that having the AM amplifier, part # 81623800, replaced (under warranty) helped the AM reception.
Ironically the AM plays BETTER. The FM is much WORSE :eek:
 

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Hi Westfield,
Actually, we DON'T need to (IMO).
I just like having a battery that's "topped off".
Heck, with my motorcycles, I could go six weeks without riding them and they would still start. However, the Battery Tender website claims that a battery will last a bit longer if it is maintained at a full charge.
And - the BT is so convenient for me to plug in, well, I just like to do it.

Best Regards,
Nu
 

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Hi Westfield,
Actually, we DON'T need to (IMO).
I just like having a battery that's "topped off".
Heck, with my motorcycles, I could go six weeks without riding them and they would still start. However, the Battery Tender website claims that a battery will last a bit longer if it is maintained at a full charge.
And - the BT is so convenient for me to plug in, well, I just like to do it.

Best Regards,
Nu
You may not need to, but we do. I had a flat battery twice when returning to CA from AZ and had to keep the car on a charger overnight to be able to get it to start. The smart in AZ hasn't had this problem yet since we spend most of our time there and it rarely sits longer than 3 weeks.
 

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Hi Westfield,
Actually, we DON'T need to (IMO).
I just like having a battery that's "topped off".
Heck, with my motorcycles, I could go six weeks without riding them and they would still start. However, the Battery Tender website claims that a battery will last a bit longer if it is maintained at a full charge.
And - the BT is so convenient for me to plug in, well, I just like to do it.

Best Regards,
Nu
I've used them for years and like them very much :)

How did you wind up wiring the harness in? Did you bring it through the firewall for the pigtail in front? Just curious as I'm about to install mine and looking the "MOST" convenient way to mount it :D


 

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I was on the Battery Tender web site and see that they have a cable that plugs into the 12v outlet "Cigar lighter".

Is this an option to keep the smart charged?
Or is it not in the circuit when the car is off?
 

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I wired cable with the 'rings' that's supplied with the battery tender and brought the cable out to the right side of the foam cover, just to the right of the shelf you see my drive and play and i pod sitting upon. The cable fits under the factory carpet edge visible to the right of the electronic heap

To make life simpler I added a 24"
SAE to SAE exension cable from spoiledbiker.com
Powerlet SAE/SAE CABLE - PAC-022 24 inch at Spoiled Biker
this will fit under the same corner of the rug too for easy access and for less that $10 makes it easier to connect your battery tender. You could still attach it without the extension cable but it would be a little akward. The extension brings the cable end all the way to the bottom of the foot well so attaching is a breeze. (The cable does come with ame safety covers as te stock cable so when it's not in use and you've coiled it back under the corner of the rug, there are no bare connections/wires to potentially cause problems.) Writing this took longer than installing it - it's about about a 10 minute job and I'm an awful typist.
OH, ond more thing. Read carefully before you but the adapter that plugs into the cigarette lighter. Even if you've added an always on one as I did. the only adapter I found like that only fit the smaller motorcycle outlet, Not the standard 12v one we have.
 

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I wired cable with the 'rings' that's supplied with the battery tender and brought the cable out to the right side of the foam cover, just to the right of the shelf you see my drive and play and i pod sitting upon. The cable fits under the factory carpet edge visible to the right of the electronic heap

To make life simpler I added a 24"
SAE to SAE exension cable from spoiledbiker.com
Powerlet SAE/SAE CABLE - PAC-022 24 inch at Spoiled Biker
this will fit under the same corner of the rug too for easy access and for less that $10 makes it easier to connect your battery tender. You could still attach it without the extension cable but it would be a little akward. The extension brings the cable end all the way to the bottom of the foot well so attaching is a breeze. (The cable does come with ame safety covers as te stock cable so when it's not in use and you've coiled it back under the corner of the rug, there are no bare connections/wires to potentially cause problems.) Writing this took longer than installing it - it's about about a 10 minute job and I'm an awful typist.

Easy install, BUT, now you have to access it through the door, right? So the door gets closed on the cable? This is what I am trying to avoid. I'm thinking of trying to come out the "vent" hole and running the cable up to the front where it will be accessible in the bonnet area. Once I "open" everything and take a look, I'll make a decision as to how I'll install. Thanks for your great tips :D

 

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I'm thinking of trying to come out the "vent" hole and running the cable up to the front where it will be accessible in the bonnet area.
I park in the garage do it doesn't matter if I just barely crack open the window. The thin, flat cable from the battery goes through the opening in the window and connects to the extension cable. Pretty simple and no crushed cable. Besides, I have the SmartBillet grill set on mine, so taking off the bonnet to connect each time would be a much bigger PITA.:)
 

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I was on the Battery Tender web site and see that they have a cable that plugs into the 12v outlet "Cigar lighter".
Is this an option to keep the smart charged?
Or is it not in the circuit when the car is off?
I wouldn't do it, if for no other reason than that it routes the charging power through the fusebox (and G*d knows what else) instead of directly into the battery. There's a certain risk of a spike taking out some sort of computer or whatnot in your car that way...

Going through the cigar lighter/power accessory point is sort of acceptable in an emergency, but for regular or semi-regular charging, the best bet is to go directly to the battery terminals.
 

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It's very simple to put a 12v outlet in your glove box and run it down directly to the battery. Radio Shack sells a fused one that already has wires long enough to reach the battery in the Smart. Drilling a hole in the back of the glove compartment, pushing in the self seating outlet and connecting the wires to the battery takes all of about 15 minutes. I did that to use the outlet for charging phones, ipods and such when the car is off. But, even having it available, I'm still in Rigger's camp and connect my battery tender directly to the battery. (Also, the Smart outlet is only "on" when the key is on, so you'd have to switch it in the fuse panel to an always on circuit to use it with your BT.)
 

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i have a dead battery as well....sux because we had nice weather for the first time in months and I couldn't drive my Smarty
 

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Is this possible? If so, any pointers on how to do this?

Thanks ... Mike
Mike,
I've tapped into the unswitched part of the fuse panel to hardwire in my Drive+Play but haven't switched wiring of fuses. But, I believe Cubefx mentioned it in one of his posts. Perhaps a PM to him would be your best bet. I wouldn't want to mislead you and fry your Smart.:eek:
Keep us posted,
Michael
 

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NY Dead Battery

So I tried all the quick fixes, turn off auto headlites and wipers, turned off the interior light and made sure there was nothing else on.

Results parked car two days below freezing temps and I was dead every time. The last straw was when I went out of town parked at the airport and when I returned I was dead the lot attendent did not know where the battery was so here I was with him driving out to my car to jump start it.

I spoke to the dealer and told him I would drive it in and explained the fact that I got stuck (6) six times. I also told him that I would no longer call for a jump or do it myself that from now on it was ONLY going to be towed and that I planned on leaving it wherever it died.

At the dealer I was told that "the Smart Cars" are made to be driven every day and that would solve the problem. I told thim that was total "BS" and asked him to show me that in writing or put it in writing. Of course I received neither. I left the car and I guess all the stars and planets aligned because two hrs later he told me my car was ready and that they had replaced the Battery with one twice the size and cranking amps. He also stated that my battery was showing around 78 cold cranking amps when tested. Probably good enough to run a can opener!

So far two weeks and and I have let it sit for as long as 3.5 days and it starts like a NORMAL car. Sorry to be longwinded but I know there are others out there that have this problem. I believe SMART knows about this battery problem but they don't want to due a full blown recall. Hold their FEET to the FIRE!!

Paul
[email protected]
 

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So
At the dealer I was told that "the Smart Cars" are made to be driven every day and that would solve the problem. I told thim that was total "BS" and asked him to show me that in writing or put it in writing. Of course I received neither.
[email protected]

Anyone that tells you that is an idiot. Either they truly don't understand and have not passed the most basic training course, or they have and really believe you'll fall for it. Brush-off tactic, perhaps, but the general manager of the dealership needs to know your experiences - this was an intentional act of stupidity and the GM will not stand for it if they want their dealership to continue participating.

It's a freaking battery... when a dealer understands that replacing a $50 part is better than the whiplash from telling their customer something this stupid, they'll be better off. And if you CC: Smart Corporate on the letter (be polite, this is on permanent record), then you create a paper trail that lawyers can follow if it gets to that stage. No company wants to have a 10 million dollar lawsuit which pays lawyers 8 million and the public gets a new battery when they can just recall the batteries to begin with. It seems this battery issue is widespread and the company needs to act proactively.
 

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Several of our Canadian smart car friends have found that the battery fluid was not inspected prior to delivery. Some cars have failed to start, failed to hold a charge, or battery died altogether.

Make sure battery fluid is properly up to level. Low acid can deteriorate plates and kill the battery in just a year or so.
 
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