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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Yesterday I replaced my original battery with a new OE one from Mercedes. The new battery is identical to the original battery in specs. Cost was $176. I couldn’t tell the manufacturer, but in the past, Varta made most Mercedes batteries. This new battery was identical in size to the original. It was 8.125 x 6.9 x 7.5 inches. That’s 206 x 175 x 190 mm. The Varta C30 Dynamic is a perfect match size wise and may not be available in the US. The price in Europe was 70 euros. The Varta actually looks like it’s a more powerful battery – 54 Ah vs. 42 AH and 530A vs. 340A.

I decided to go with an OE battery because there have been reports that aftermarket batteries were a little longer and made installation a little trickier. I have two somewhat local dealers, but neither of them ever sold Smart cars. My closest former Smart car dealer is 150 miles away and they did have two batteries in stock. My one local dealer told me that they could not order that battery for me. The second dealer said “no problem,” and I had it in three days. It had to come from Jacksonville.

The new battery read 12.72v out of the box, so it did not need to be charged. My old battery read 12.75v when I took it out, so maybe I didn’t need to replace it, but after all the “bricking” reports potentially caused by a bad 12v battery, I figured six years was long enough.

Forum member, Paul Faure, just replaced his battery with the Varta mentioned above and he gave me a very thorough step by step process. I figured I’d share my experiences and Paul’s with the group.
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Move the passenger seat back as far as it will go to give yourself the most room. Remove the loose floor mat and fold back the carpet. Note that in the upper right hand corner of the carpet is a threaded fastener – a regular screw driver works to remove it. Remove the Styrofoam liner under the floor mat. There is a fastener at the back right side of the liner that just spins off by hand. Suggest you remove the tire repair kit to make it easier to remove. Might want to check the date on the tire kit. Once the Styrofoam is removed, you are at the battery and ready to go.
 

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In order to minimize the time the car is without a battery, you should remove the tie down bracket before removing the terminal connections. See photo of the tie down bracket. It has a small right angle bend at the console end to keep it in place. In order to get the bracket out, you need to rotate the bracket up to 45 degrees or so to release the console side. There is one 10mm nut on the door side of the bracket. Remove this first. It’s a tight fit, but be patient. Pop off the connector for the red wire at #1 on the photo and move that out of the way. Then pull back on both the red wire and the big black bundle of wires until you can release the bracket to rotate upward. Remove the bracket and you’re ready to go with the terminals.
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Now it’s terminal time. Remove the negative one first and then the positive one. Both use a 10mm wrench. Pop off the vent tube. Now wiggle the old battery out by lifting up the rear most end and remove it. The battery is sealed, so don’t worry about acid leaking out as you lift the battery.

Installation is reverse of what you just did. If your battery has vent tube connections on both sides, make sure the forward one is plugged. Connect the positive terminal first and then the negative terminal. Reinstall the hold down bracket and tighten down the 10mm nut holding it in place. Pop the black fastener for the red cable in place. Hook up the vent tube. Reinstall foam, tire kit and carpets.

After my installation I did not find anything that had been reset or lost. My radio came on as soon as I hooked up the terminals and all the settings were there. No numbers or settings on the cluster seem to have changed. So all you have to do was turn it on and drive away!! 😀
 

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My OEM radio prompted me for a security code after losing power. The default '000' brought it back on-line.
What is it with Mercedes and the passenger footwell! My B-Class electric doesn't have the battery there but instead has the main fusebox under the carpet. Sheesh.
 

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Same procedure as the gasser. [1983___]

Is there a way to SEARCH only on the ED/EQ forum so as to avoid those gazillion gasser items?

Today I'm unable to open rear door using otherwise perfect fob-key. So is my 2016 rear door the same as say 2009 gasser? So I can DIY install some mechanical release for the rear window/door, that you might be able to reference? TIA. And this is crucial since just last week I finally took the time to carefully mount my charger to its official place inside the rear door and now that good move has, as fate would have it, blown up in my face, since now I'm without any charger with 20% charge remaining.

But back on topic: Kudos on the preemptive lead-acid replacement. Some ICE user will for sure will be more than willing to squeeze the remaining usage out of that AGM but you do not need the risk in going past 4 or 5 years usage in an EV.

I am going the Li-Ion 12 volt route here and have begun to throw big$$ in that direction. For the Smart I have the Bioenno LiFePO4 50amp drop-in solution, but it remains to be seen if it can actually fit in that space. Also terminals will need to be adapted. But that passenger floor location can't be beat.

Note Bene: I live in a maritime zone where it rarely drops below freezing so I'm prepared to take the 12v batt inside during the few cold spells each winter. LiFePO4 does not like to take a charge below 0*C !! But to this point my next 12v batt will be LTO which chemistry is immune to low temps (have the cells, just need to strap them together in a box). And will test in the SmartED too.

I wish my clamp-on ammeter had a remote screen so I could monitor the Smart's amp draw during a typical trip. Anyone have that data? Curious if a 40A or even a 30A battery would do the job just as well.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Vincent - reference your search question. At the top of the page click on "Search Community" and then "Advanced Search." Then you can select from the drop down menu which forum or forums you want to search in.

Len
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Len - Thank you, works like a charm. To quote the potus "very few people actually know" how to do a search.

VR
2016 Coupe 8600 miles
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Small addendum, for RHD cars (a tiny number, I know) the center console has to be removed as well, preferably before starting battery removal. This is also true for RHD ICE 451s. On the bright side, Smart left a free extra green painted earth point nut in my battery tray, possibly under the battery
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here's a thread about getting an OE battery at a pretty good price.


Len
 

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Has anyone here tried an ACDelco LN1AGM battery? It appears to be an exact fit, with two vents and a plug for the unused vent port. At Rockauto it's for sale for $135 + shipping.
 

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Yesterday I replaced my original battery with a new OE one from Mercedes. The new battery is identical to the original battery in specs. Cost was $176. I couldn’t tell the manufacturer, but in the past, Varta made most Mercedes batteries. This new battery was identical in size to the original. It was 8.125 x 6.75 x 7.5 inches. That’s 206 x 171 x 190 mm. The Varta C30 Dynamic is a perfect match size wise and may not be available in the US. The price in Europe was 70 euros. The Varta actually looks like it’s a more powerful battery – 54 Ah vs. 42 AH and 530A vs. 340A.

I decided to go with an OE battery because there have been reports that aftermarket batteries were a little longer and made installation a little trickier. I have two somewhat local dealers, but neither of them ever sold Smart cars. My closest former Smart car dealer is 150 miles away and they did have two batteries in stock. My one local dealer told me that they could not order that battery for me. The second dealer said “no problem,” and I had it in three days. It had to come from Jacksonville.

The new battery read 12.72v out of the box, so it did not need to be charged. My old battery read 12.75v when I took it out, so maybe I didn’t need to replace it, but after all the “bricking” reports potentially caused by a bad 12v battery, I figured six years was long enough.

Forum member, Paul Faure, just replaced his battery with the Varta mentioned above and he gave me a very thorough step by step process. I figured I’d share my experiences and Paul’s with the group.
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Happy to share my experience, too. Like Len, I swapped-out my 12v battery proactively because my Smart ED is a 2015 model, still with its factory OEM battery. I purchased my new battery "off the shelf" at BJ's Wholesale Club in Dedham, MA for $105, plus $20 core deposit (make: Interstate, model: XS-47/ H5). First, let me say that it was an easy job, but some owners may NOT be up to the challenge because of the difficulty of lifting the battery out (and in) of the floor well. Like some other members here, the new battery was slightly longer that the OEM model, but has a nice folding handle that helps with handling. This size difference is not a problem because the Interstate XS-47/ H5 WILL fit into the floor well if you take care during installation, but you will need to flatten the 90 degree tab on the steel hold-down bar in order to re-install this bar. Had to reset clock, but radio presets held through the process.
Step-by-step:
1. Fold back passenger carpet. I used a spring clamp and short rope to tie it to the steering wheel, keeping the carpet away from your work area.
2. Remove rigid foam cover- two fasteners on door side. Hello Battery!
3. Using 10mm socket, remove hold-down bar. See Len's (excellent) photo of clip that holds the red (+) cable to the bar.
4. The bar was difficult to remove because of the hose that obstructs the other end as you lift it to a 45 degree angle.
5. Another difficulty is the tightness of the wiring harness that passes near the bar bolt/nut.
6. Keep the steel bar clear of the (+) terminal. In the workshop, use a vise and hammer to flatten the tab on the bar.
7. Disconnect the vent hose. Tie this out of the way using some twine, but don't pull it out of the hole in the well.
8. Use 10mm socket to remove the black (-) wire
9. Remove the big red plastic safety cover from the (+) terminal
10. Use 10mm socket to remove the (+) wire. DO NOT ALLOW METAL TOOLS OR OTHER ITEMS TO DEAD-SHORT THE (+) CONNECTION.
11. Position the gray foam-covered fuse cable away from the floor well. Tie back with twine if you like.
12. Here's the hard part- lift the battery out, being careful to keep the (-) and (+) wires clear of your progress.
13. The vent hole on the (+) end of the new battery will need the tiny plastic plug from the old battery. Swap NOW.
14. Insert the new battery (+) end first, being careful not to contact the bare terminals with any wiring parts. I wish I had three hands during this process!
15. Don't allow the vent hose to get crushed under the new battery as you make the difficult insertion. Have a swear jar close by!
16. Reattach hold-down bar
17. Reattach (+) wire
18. Install the big red plastic safety cover over (+) terminal (small round tabs insert into slots in battery top)
19. Reattach (-) wire
20. Reattach vent hose at (-) end of battery. Is it still passing through the hole in the bottom of well?
21. Push the big gray foam-covered fuse cable into the gap near the vent hose.
22. Reinstall the foam cover and carpet
23. Return old battery to store to get your $20 deposit.

As I said, it's an easy project, but handling the batteries isn't a walk in th park. Thanks to Len for the original post.
-Phil
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My OEM radio prompted me for a security code after losing power. The default '000' brought it back on-line.
What is it with Mercedes and the passenger footwell! My B-Class electric doesn't have the battery there but instead has the main fusebox under the carpet. Sheesh.
The security code is 0000.
Thanks.
 
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