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Discussion Starter #1
Sunday night, we left a friend's home and all was well. When we got home, the hatch on our 2008 cabrio would not open.The remote would not either lock or unlock the hatch. The doors would not lock. The lock/unlock buttons caused a relay to click in the dash, but the doors/ hatch would not work.

The pressure is on for a fix as the fuel filler door is also in the locked position and I will need fuel soon.

Anybody have any ideas before I go to the dealer?

Thanks in advance for your help.
 

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I don't think the remote buttons will work with the ignition on, but the dash buttons should. Did you try disconnecting the battery for a bit? kind of a reset for the car.. Maybe one of the buttons is stuck in the pressed state. Try moving the keys away from the car far enough that they won't send it a signal and see if the inside buttons work. If not, it may be the inside buttons that are causing the problems. You could try disconnecting them and see what happens.

The gas tank lock can be accessed through the inside right side cover, there is an access door to get in there but it could be tough without the back hatch open, you'd have to crawl in from the front seat (lay it down of course)
 

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Did you try the other key. It that one works, you've narrowed it down... :wink:
Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, I did try the other key... didn't work either. Called 800-smartusa and the response was that I should bring it to a dealer. Thanks for the input!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The remote seems to be communicating with the car. When I press the 'unlock' button, the lights come on, but there is a chirp only intermittently. When I press the 'lock' button, there is no response.

Thanks for the idea!
 

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yeah, I remember smoking mine out on my '08... Not the recomended method I'd have to say...

I like the battery idea, try charging the battery on the car.

I know the doors won't lock if a door isn't closed all the way, but not sure about unlocking.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I will disconnect the battery tonight and see if a reboot helps. I think the car battery is fine as the car starts with no problem. At any rate, my backup position is a visit to smart Center Boston tomorrow night. My thanks to all of you for your timely input. I will let you know what happens!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
but wait... there's more!!

Same symptoms happened again on Sunday. I brought the car back to the dealer yesterday. It turns out that the problem this time is a blown fuse. It seems that the central locking and the horn are on the same fuse (#31).

But wait... there's more! I replaced the OEM horn with a Wolo Bad Boy last year and the dealer tech is telling me that it is the aftermarket horn that is causing the problem.

My question is: Has anyone had their Wolo Bad Boy blow fuses?

Thanks in advance for your help!
 

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I've still got a stock horn at the moment, but I've never heard of aftermarket horns blowing fuses. Got any current draw specs on the Wolo?
 

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Same symptoms happened again on Sunday. I brought the car back to the dealer yesterday. It turns out that the problem this time is a blown fuse. It seems that the central locking and the horn are on the same fuse (#31).

But wait... there's more! I replaced the OEM horn with a Wolo Bad Boy last year and the dealer tech is telling me that it is the aftermarket horn that is causing the problem.

My question is: Has anyone had their Wolo Bad Boy blow fuses?

Thanks in advance for your help!
I've painfully discovered that my dealer will blame everything on any after-market accessory on the car. It seems to be their standard operating procedure, even when it makes absolutely no sense. If you point this out, they will talk to you like you're a completely idiotic moron.
 

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OTOH, if the horn (just for example) were drawing 14 amps through a 15 amp fuse, then they would have cause for concern. That's why I'm wondering how much power the horn draws.
 

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The Wolo Bad Boy horn installation instructions suggests a 20 amp fuse, if you're not using the original horn wiring.

ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS FOR USING A NEW HORN BUTTON SWITCH (Fig B):

5. Install the relay provided in a dry location with the terminals facing downward near the horn.

6. Connect relay terminal 87 to Bad Boy’s positive (+) motor
terminal. Use 16 gauge wire or heavier.

7. Connect relay terminal 85 to the horn button switch (not
provided). The other terminal of the horn switch is connected to ground, any metal body bolt that is clean of paint and rust. Use 18 gauge wire or heavier.

8. Connect relay terminal 30/86 to positive (+) 12-volts such
as battery, alternator, etc. Use 16 gauge wire or heavier.
Protect the electrical circuit with a twenty (20)-amp fuse
(not included).
 

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Are we SURE Magneti Marelli doesn't make these failing electrical parts for Smarts? How many heater fan motors and door lock actuators do your friends have fail on their rice rockets? I used to ride Moto Guzzi motorcycles, before they were rhodium plated. The only thing that ever failed on them said Magneti Marelli on it.... A complete Honda handle bar with controls and switches made my Gooses nearly bulletproof!

PS - I took a poll. None of my friends ever lost a heater fan or door lock actuator.
The heater fan in my '73 220D froze up because idiot MB put it outside under the air intake in the rain...duh. My '83 300TD fan still runs fine at nearly 500K miles......both cost LESS than my Smart!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
A Word from Wolo Tech Support

It turns out that the horn draws 20 amps for 2 milliseconds at start up and goes down to 14amps. All things being equal, it shouldn't take out a 20 amp fuse. If any moisture got in to the horn and rusted the commutator, it will draw more than 20 amps! Having gone through some pretty good sized puddles in the past weeks, this could well be what's happening.

I guess I have to pull the front end apart and test out the horn to see if it works.

I am afraid that I'm going to have to find another horn that is more suitable for a wet climate. Any thoughts??
 

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Are we SURE Magneti Marelli doesn't make these failing electrical parts for Smarts? How many heater fan motors and door lock actuators do your friends have fail on their rice rockets? I used to ride Moto Guzzi motorcycles, before they were rhodium plated. The only thing that ever failed on them said Magneti Marelli on it.... A complete Honda handle bar with controls and switches made my Gooses nearly bulletproof!

PS - I took a poll. None of my friends ever lost a heater fan or door lock actuator.
The heater fan in my '73 220D froze up because idiot MB put it outside under the air intake in the rain...duh. My '83 300TD fan still runs fine at nearly 500K miles......both cost LESS than my Smart!
And exactly what does this have to do with the subject??? I took a poll, and when asked about your other cars, all I heard were chirping crickets....
 
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