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I sprayed mine down with windex, real good, let it soak for about 30 seconds then they pulled right out.

I resprayed the new rods with windex and crammed them in.

the windex evaporates faster than WD-40, the WD-40 is more slippery.
Thanks. I'm having a hard time telling, should I be pulling them out from the inside (towards the exhaust) or from the outside (towards the tires), if they have a "cap".

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No problem. Now I just gotta realign the dang gasket... that sucker is hard to get back in place!

I understand, I went slow and even with the total time of flipping the wrench back and forth to get the bolts out was about an hour.

I really wasn't in a hurry, I feel I could do it in 45 minutes now.

Kinda like Yoda, be patient, it will get done.
 

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I have had my DTH pipes for 2 weeks and I love them. I am a very symmetrical kind of guy and my pipes are a half an inch off center to the left. Which means I had to cut off a little more lower bumper on the left to make everything look better. I know, it's being pickey, but just wondered if anyone else had the same issue.
 

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simple removal

Anyone have any tips on removing the right and left "rods" on the stock exhaust (not sure what they're called) that are in the rubber pieces? I'm having trouble getting those out...
I used another poster's idea when I installed mine. Spray with WD-40 then use channel locks. If you put one jaw on the button of the post outside the hanger and the other jaw inside the hanger, all you have to do is squeeze the pliers and the rod comes right out of the hanger.
 

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Finished my install, when I get the pics uploaded to flicr I'll post a link, too many for a thread. The only real hard part was getting the heat sheild screws off. Finally just grabbed a pair of adjustable pliers and gripped the head to crank it out until I could use my fingers. The DTH side-exit sounds awesome, just as loud as I was hoping for, and no drone when cruisin'. I will have to find somewhere to make the audio files I recorded with my hd recorder of before an after, in and out.

Only dislike is that there was a pinhole air leak on the weld where the pipe from the car connects to the muffler. Not real worried about it though.

BTW... stock weighed 20lbs and DTH weighed 6lbs. Have photo comparison too, but still need to upload those pics.

Pics have been uploaded, you can see them here.
 

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Tomorrow morning I will do the last recording of the new exhaust with my HD recorder, hopefully I'll figure out how to get them in a post. Would have done a nice video like some, but I am still using a sVHS camcorder and it's a royal pain to convert since my video adapter hasn't been updated since windows 98, and the files from recording video on my phone stink.
 

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DT exhaust - weld problem

I know I read somewhere that people were having problems with the welds on their exhaust mod. I couldn't find it so I added to this thread. The bar that apparently supports the exhuast system has come unwelded. Is this a common problem and how do they fix it? Is it just poor welding or something else? Help.:eek:
 

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Apparently this is a problem with some of the early units, according to DT. They have been replacing the broken exhausts with an improved model, just contact your supplier.
 

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Did your hp INCREASE AND wHAT ABOUT GAS MILEAGE?

DID YOUR GAS MILEAGE CHANGE AND DID IT INCREASE YOUR Hp?
So do you recommend it?
Thanks Steve







Received and installed the Doug Thorley post-cad exhaust last night. Initial impression: sounds great, no loud drone, best comparison is that it reminds me of the old British 2 seat open roadsters. Definitely an improvement and nothing that will annoy or wake the neighbors coming home late at night – not at all like headers on a muscle car. But then only test drove it less than a mile after installation. One & only passenger remarked that it sounds like it’s a lot more fun to drive.




Installation took less than an hour with the right tools at hand. And I know NOTHING about mechanics other than to be able to spot which bolts connect to what.

Instructions say to remove only the rear lower body valance BUT I don’t know how anyone could remove the heat shield cover over the catalytic converter, remove the old exhaust & install this without removing the entire back center body panel AND the bumper frame. And to remove the middle back body panel, there are two screws right in each of the upper corners below the bottom of the tailgate and to get to them, you have to peel back the ENTIRE back body panel that houses the tail lights starting at the passenger doors. And that means starting by removing the side bottom rocker panels.

Fortunately I had all the bottom black “orange peel plastic” panels removed for sanding & painting to match the body and was smart enough to wait for the exhaust to arrive before putting them back on. Made the job easier. But if your car is intact, expect to spend at least an hour removing body panels, assuming you know what you’re doing, before you even get to the exhaust. An all afternoon job. And if you run into a jam or need an extra tool, better have a second car to run get it.

Any mechanic could install the exhaust itself but few know how the body is put together so there's no real alternative than doing it yourself with patience to "learn as you go". Had it not been for the clear instructions posted by someone else on removing body panels for installation of the air horns ** by following them, I easily removed the front half of the car and by then knew how to do the back end. Otherwise, if you don't want to do it yourself, expect a trip first to the body shop to remove the panels and then to the mechanic.

The factory exhaust is a lot heavier and can see every part of it is shielded and insulated. Doug Thorley’s is lighter, smaller and just plain stainless. Really cool looking but no insulation.

Question: has anyone run into heat problems? Considering the body is plastic and this is at the rear without wind being blown directly on it, and the exhaust is literally inches from the body, am wondering whether heat buildup could melt or warp the body?
 

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DID YOUR GAS MILEAGE CHANGE AND DID IT INCREASE YOUR Hp?
So do you recommend it?
Thanks Steve
I don't know for certain what the HP gain is, probably close to 4, but it does have a lot better pickup, and probably shaved a second or two off the 0-60 time. If I drive with the pedal down, I see no change in gas mileage. If I drive economically, I am able to get up near 45mpg whereas my previous max was 41mpg. And YES, I would recommend it. There is a bit of a drone, it doesn't bother me most of the time, and my phone headset cancels it out, but I plan to get some dynomat for the back anyway.
 

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So I went back to Al & Ed's and they replaced the broken exhaust with a brand new one. Noticed an immediate difference in the sound - I don't know why I didn't notice it right away when it broke. I love this twin tip. It looks cool, sounds great and drives terrific!:D
 

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Just so everyone knows that has the DTH single exit exhaust I was under the impression just the center exit was having a problem with cracking at the welds. I put mine mine on in July 08 and I just noticed on Sunday That it was cracked bad. I am in Downey CA so the guys at Doug Thorley took care of me and replaced it Free of charge. They said that mine was only the 2nd one they have seen do this since they started production. What I suggest you do and I had them do it for me is use a buffing wheel and buff out the tips. It almost looks like chrome and it lasts. Until they come up with a cost effective way to put flex tubing we may run into this problem. I made sure that they would replace it again if this happened again and they said they would. The reason they are not using flex they said it would add $100 aprox to price. I still stand by the quality of the pipe but since it is a new car they have to work out the kinks i guess.
 
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