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My 2017 ED had a similar problem as it would not start in my home garage, so I hooked up my battery charger and in just a few seconds the car could be started and all seemed fine. The main battery of the car charges the 12v battery once the car is started so the 12v was brought to normal in just a few minutes.

Since I didn't want this to happen again and since there's no gauge that measures the health of the 12v battery, I installed a bluetooth battery monitor. It tells me what the battery condition is now and what it's been historically but for me the most important thing is that it tells me if the drain is excessive and informs me right away right on my smart phone. So long before the car will not start, I'm able to do something about it which in my case would mean simply starting the car to recharge the battery.

Since I installed the bluetooth monitor my battery has never failed but at least I'm prepared just in case.

Cheers,

Terry.
 

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no start

The shut down problem continues to happen probably once in ten starts. I have checked the 12V battery, all connections are tight, granted the car is 4 yrs old now. In my opinion batteries last longer these days, my 2009 Passion is still on it's first battery. I am wondering where the generator is that charges the 12V battery. Many of my trips are under 3 miles. I have had "charge 12V battery NOW" message on a couple non-start occasions. After connecting a charger, it indicated "Full Charge" almost instantly I am ruling out 12V battery and am convinced it is some sort of computer glitch. I did hit a really large pothole that destroyed two wheels and probably shook up the electronics. Until I can drive to the dealer my fix for when this non-start happens is to push the car slightly forward (4 ft) and so far it reverts to a normal start.

On a different note; I replaced all four wheels with 16 inchers and high performance low profile tires. Then I read a MotorTrend article telling me cool sporty wheel/tire combinations will decrease the range of an electric vehicle, not significantly with my driving so far. The tires have a 40Z rating (drive flat at 40mph) which I like.
When mine failed to start, problem showed up 100% of the time if ac compressor switch was on.
HV battery was determined to be the problem by dealer and replaced under warranty.
 

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Look for inside right panel for wire harness near frame shorting, it disabled my 2013 ED and caused issues with others.
Seems to be common issue.
I had errors before full disable.
 

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My 2017 ED had a similar problem as it would not start in my home garage, so I hooked up my battery charger and in just a few seconds the car could be started and all seemed fine. The main battery of the car charges the 12v battery once the car is started so the 12v was brought to normal in just a few minutes.

Since I didn't want this to happen again and since there's no gauge that measures the health of the 12v battery, I installed a bluetooth battery monitor. It tells me what the battery condition is now and what it's been historically but for me the most important thing is that it tells me if the drain is excessive and informs me right away right on my smart phone. So long before the car will not start, I'm able to do something about it which in my case would mean simply starting the car to recharge the battery.

Since I installed the bluetooth monitor my battery has never failed but at least I'm prepared just in case.

Cheers,

Terry.
Can you provide a link to the bluetooth battery monitor?
 

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Group 47 is the correct battery. Make sure you connect the vent tube. Also, to r & R the battery, you have to tilt the battery at the rear.
 

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The battery Foolios linked to is an AGM (i.e. absorbent-glass-mat-non-spillable) battery. Is the Smart 12V battery an AGM or flooded type? Do you hear sloshing of liquid electrolyte when you remove it? I guess becasue of its unusual "indoor" location, it needs to be AGM . That explains some of the reliability issues Smart owners have reported. (AGM's are not as robust as flooded).
 

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Is the Smart 12V battery an AGM or flooded type? I guess becasue of its unusual "indoor" location, it needs to be AGM. That explains some of the reliability issues Smart owners have reported. (AGM's are not as robust as flooded).
It needn't be AGM as the OEM is the standard (flooded) 47H5 - note that the battery is VENTED TO THE OUTSIDE through a tube that exits the bottom of the battery box.

As for 12V battery reliability issues - could it be the constant 3-cylinder vibrations through the frame PLUS the harsh ride (limited shock absorption) that causes the grids to deteriorate?
 

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Has anyone tried using a supercapacitor instead of a lead acid battery? The lighter weight seems like something that would really be beneficial.
 

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Thinking about this vented tube and guessing it's because of the Lead Acid battery being used. If I used a lighter AGM battery, wouldn't need to worry about venting then right? And the lighter battery(plus tube removal) would just make it easier to work with plus less weight in the car.

Yay, Nay?

My 2017 ED had a similar problem as it would not start in my home garage, so I hooked up my battery charger and in just a few seconds the car could be started and all seemed fine. The main battery of the car charges the 12v battery once the car is started so the 12v was brought to normal in just a few minutes.

Since I didn't want this to happen again and since there's no gauge that measures the health of the 12v battery, I installed a bluetooth battery monitor. It tells me what the battery
I'm still interested in this bluetooth battery monitor.
 

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I have two Group 47 AGM batteries in both of our smart cars that I acquired from O'Reilly's Auto Parts. I don't think they are lighter then a flooded cell group 47 battery. Also, the provision to attach the vent tube is provided on the AGM batteries that I have.
 

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I have two Group 47 AGM batteries in both of our smart cars that I acquired from O'Reilly's Auto Parts. I don't think they are lighter then a flooded cell group 47 battery. Also, the provision to attach the vent tube is provided on the AGM batteries that I have.
Could you provide a link to the AGM battery you bought from O'Reilly, please?

So a Group 47, that's like the capacity of the battery? Say 110 Amp Hours?
What I was thinking is that 110AH battery is overkill. So I was wondering if something much smaller like a 30 amp hour battery would suffice?
 

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Could you provide a link to the AGM battery you bought from O'Reilly, please?

So a Group 47, that's like the capacity of the battery? Say 110 Amp Hours?
What I was thinking is that 110AH battery is overkill. So I was wondering if something much smaller like a 30 amp hour battery would suffice?
Just go to the O'Reilly's Auto Parts website. The group # is the BCA designation for the battery size case.
 
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