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has anyone heard of a repair shop, dealership or non-dealership, offering some kinda service to clean the rings, valve guide seals, et al.? he indicated BMW and MB shops offer this.
from what my local shop owner described it's a cleanser fluid of some kind put in the crankcase after draining the oil. the engine is run for a length of time then drained. new oil is put in with some other additive.
what brought me to this is oil needing to be topped up/added every 3k miles or so. and he's also checking on the PCV assembly thingy being faulty.

now, I've personally done diesel soak and run (replacing the crankcase oil with same volume of diesel and running 15-20 minutes but ONLY AT IDLE, not under load of any kind and no revving) on many older engines simply b/c I couldn't determine what kind(s) of oil had been used by the previous owner(s). and I've had very good luck with this. the clear-ish diesel comes out black & gunky.

anyone have thoughts on if this possibly being about the same thing only he wants to charge $150...

thanks in advance!
 

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There are some very strong cleansers available to the average user, but in an otherwise healthy engine, so little of the product can get to the oil control rings that hardened coke will be very difficult to remove. That being said, I did have luck using BG 109 as a piston soak in conjunction with using it as an idle-speed engine flush, but this only help with gummy oil control rings and not ones that were coated with hardened, baked-on deposits.
 

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You can Lead a Horse To Drink... BUT... You can't make Him Drink...YUP

1) No other motor oil beats Pennzoil® motor oils in engine sludge and wear protection. 5W30 ~ Frees Up Them RINGS...
Pennzoil - Top Rated Motor Oil - The Technology of Clean | United States

2) Precision Clean™ technology and powerful detergents break up and clear away stubborn carbon deposits that can rob engine power. Only certified one that REALLY WORKS... ...
Techron Concentrate Plus Complete Fuel System Cleaner | Techron
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3) Change OIL every 5000 miles... (after three changes come back and tell us how its doing)... (Keep it on the FULL mark ~ Max Oil Cooling when Oil is on the FULL MARK).. (Your engine is Water Cooled & Oil Cooled)... Cool engines use Less Oil than HOT Stressed Engines.... RIGHT...!!!.
 

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I became friends with a major when i was in the USAF. He was responsible for developing the water system on the Apollo space crafts that filtered pee into drinking water....EECCHH! With credentials like that who am I to argue with someone that says clean the engine with kerosene. We were going to take a 61 Corvair wagon and cut the section with the back doors then weld the body together and stuff a turbo engine in it (so I dumped 2 qts of kerosene in the crankcase per his instructions drove it around the base for a few weeks while he was on assignment). When he returned we pulled the engine and tore it apart and it was totally clean, not even the brown discoloring on all the parts washed in oil was there and no carbon on the piston crowns or valves.

Water injection will also boost power on an aspirated engine and keep parts clean of carbon! My dad was a mechanic on WWII bombers in the south Pacific. He said the bombers were so loaded for missions they could barely get off the ground so they would but a 50 gallon barrel of water on board. This way they could advance the timing and boost on takeoff and the superchargers would work better. Once the drum ran dry they would push the drum out the waste gunner window.

I took a universal windshield washer tank and pump, mounted it in the engine bay and rigged up a switch inside so I could squirt down the carb throat... sounded like a hot cam in the car when idling thru hank-out joints on Fri/Sat nites. I also did the same thing in my S10 Blazer that I supercharged and boy did the 50/50 water/alcohol make a difference when advancing the timing and increasing boost. It works the same as BG and Techron in that the steam in the combustion chamber will penetrate and breakdown carbon.

The other thing I believe in besides synthetic oil is the STP additive. Heres why. I was stationed at Edwards AFB and one day we were going in to LA via backroads over the St Andreas fault to see something different. Well this vette ran me off the the road when he passed...that made me mad! I caught up to him but in doing so I blew my fan belt and didn't know it. When I saw it it was too late, the temp needle was pegged. It was summer and it could be along time before another car came by (cell phones weren't even a thought yet) so I kept going, over the fault and into LA. The first place I could get water I did so and prayed my block was good. I drove the car another 100k miles even tho the engine paint was brown now. Why cause I ran one pint of STP all the time and I believe that is what saved it from seizure. I still use it with my synthetic oil and to this day and umteen cars later I have never had one engine problem
 
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