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When considering buying a wreck at an auction Co-Part shows photo of dash which would ideally show the miles remaining on the hv battery, or 'mechanical limits' meaning you have the dreaded 'smart bricking syndrome', or whatever. The best is to see the miles which means the batt is good. My (#1)Spark_EV showed the miles so I grabbed it (even though 'airbags deployed' meant a whole 'nother mess to deal with) since I was primarily after a good batt. My #2 Spark_EV had 'no airbags deployed' and was listed as 'runs & drives' - this is the best auction car to purchase!! This one I took home and drove it off the trailer and use it daily on the ranch. Go to copart.com and knock yourself out. 8^)

LKQ knows how to spot a good hv batt, mine is described a 'grade A', so I am hopeful.
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Thinking of the future:

This thread shows the endless battle ahead for owners who run afoul of the security constructs of Daimler, Inc. The answer here is to create an 'open-source' inverter control board that can run the smart inverter directly, no 'permission' from Daimler needed. Ok, the o/s inverter control boards already exist so we just need to choose one that would best run the smartED MOSFETs in the smart inverter. Or you could use a Prius inverter/open source board instead but this is much more powerful than we need for our little 80hp motor.

I have not reached this level of desperation where I would remove my smartED inverter and replace its logic board with an open-sorce board, but that day may not be far off. The smartED is such a unique ev that we should work to perfect this solution. One benefit would be that you could use any hv batt that you wished: lead-acid or any Li-Ion chemistry you choose. You would be free to choose a voltage range and run whatever BMS would match your series/parallel cell arrangement.
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In salvage auction photos you (typically) CAN'T see if the smart HV battery is still holding a charge. Unfortunately they usually take a photo of the odometer only, and on the smart ed that part of the dash tells you nothing. Occasionally you might see the dreded hv system workshop message on the dash, but usually the photo is zoomed in on just the odometer. Either way, you can't see the battery charge indicator area (range remaining) .You'd have to see the part of the dash further towards the center, which I've never seen in Copart dash photos... The only metric you can go by is "runs & drives" , or go look in person if/when possible... BUT You are still taking the big risk that it dies while sitting (several month auction process). Most if not all airbags deployed smart ed's are going to have a dead hv pack..from what I can tell. Not comparable to most other brand ev's.

I would caution against Junkyard packs in general, unless you can get some kind of guarantee that it came out of a still moving/driving/etc car! "Grade A" may be based on appearance only in my experience. Crossing my fingers this is not the case for Vincent Rapide
 

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After a recycler (LKQ) buys a wreck they will give it 12v and read the miles off the dash. If they see an empty hv batt they will not waste any more time on it except to remove it and send it off to battery heaven. They do report how many days the hv batt has sit on their shelf, but 3 or 4 months means nothing to a good hv batt. They will then strip car of components to put on their shelves to sell for cash. Why is this not an acceptable business model?

'Runs & drives' is what to look for if you want to buy an auction car yourself. Most users here will only consider local auctions anyway so go visit the yard before you bid and check out the vehicle. I've never visited but I think Copart will allow you to apply 12v from your buzz-box and turn the key ON to read the dash, especially if they failed to make a photo themselves. Call the yard to verify this. Then you can bid with confidence.
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