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I should have one spare. Just DM me.
 

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Depending on the stored failure codes, you need to repair also the electric circuit.
So if you focused on the P18051C there is even a methode without to open or to flash it. :cool:

Never the less i wonder by MineCooky as he could offer you also the BMS repaired, he knows how to do it.

If he have some more spare i am happy to help out to fix it depending the failure codes stored. P18051C is no problem any more.
 

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Thought I'd share my (ongoing) adventures getting my 2015 Smart Fortwo ED back into driving condition. Basically starting with the dreaded P18051C fault code being set in the BMS rendering the car unusable. Services missed. no warranty. yadda yadda. 20200824_170739.jpg
Removed and ripped the battery open. d6dIutvg.jpeg Disconnected the current sensor. The battery cells were deeply discharged. Some down to around 0.15V. ( I do acknowledge reviving depleted cells is very risky!) Tried using a couple hobby lipo balance chargers to bring the cells up but there were issues with tricking them into starting with a voltage under cutoff. Switched to using a DROK adjustable output boost converter to slowly bring each of the of the three battery modules up to 110V. Stopping at different points to check for cell imbalance and self discharge. I was very fortunate and every cell took and held voltage. 20200906_165118.jpg
At this point I decided sending the BMS off to get fixed was worth it. Ended up contacting GoSmart-Service in the Ukraine and sending it to him. He was quite helpful and turned the unit around and sent it back the next day.
BMS returned. Installed. New 12V battery and fingers crossed. Success! Car was taking a charge and driving again.
Voltage spread isn't horrible. A couple more cycles are needed to get a better capacity estimate. Made a ED_BMSdiag Arduino tool to get info from the car. 20200827_190333.jpg
The HV system workshop message still remains. There are a couple faults remaining but the one I think causing problems is
B1F6716 Control unit 'Crash sensor, high-voltage battery' has a malfunction. The limit value for electrical voltage has not been attained. Last mileage 24694.0 miles. Supply voltage 6.8 V. Need to do a little research and asking around but taking a break till the weekend.
 

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Gratulation. Good Job.
To delete the failure in the crashsensor you need to use xentry or vediamo. After it should disappear.

There are in meantime several solutions to get rid off the P18051C :)

If somebody need help on this send me a PN .
 

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I would say definitely not
«B1F6716»
your advice is not at all correct.


Gratulation. Good Job.
To delete the failure in the crashsensor you need to use xentry or vediamo. After it should disappear.

There are in meantime several solutions to get rid off the P18051C :)

If somebody need help on this send me a PN .
 

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I would say definitely not
«B1F6716»
your advice is not at all correct.
OK. So we are happy to hear from you the real rootcause for the failure and what is to repair.
Every good shop will tell you what he is planning to do and what to repair in detail :) It seems you are a not thrustworth shop, even you have the necessary knowledge. ;-)

Hiding the solution is not at all a good idea. As you know there are already more then 7 shops which offer a fix of the P18051C.
And on the pictures you showed in the past you only offer an old 2013 version of software. There are several solutions which offer this on the latest 2014 SW installed, already.

For sure everybody could and should check in detail on the rootcause of the indicated failures. If there is an issue on interlock or stored airbag failure in some sensors or pyrofuse by brown out of power my first approach would to reset it and check if it come back. After this i would dig in in detail. To DTC off is the very last action as this will will not prevent of an empty battery again, but takes away safety features.
How did you switched of the DTCs? Which ones you switch off? This should be visible as you know. There is at least one supplier which also switch of Isolation measurement warnings and failures.
This is a clear issue on electrical safety. Hope you only permanent switch off only P18051C, even when you know to delete it is less work than to recharge the empty battery.
 

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Thought I'd share my (ongoing) adventures getting my 2015 Smart Fortwo ED back into driving condition. [ElecDex]
How long was the car neglected, what was the presenting problem when you tried to use it one day? Or did you post earlier about it?

I can slowly apply charge to my modules but each module has from 2 to 4 cells that on the next day have lost their charge. So they charge along with the other cells but their leakage drains them overnight. Having identified these bad cells I plan to solder jumpers across them and finish bringing the rest of the module up to 4.0vdc for solar etc use. Of course I can't use my BMS strips or the BMS controller unit.

I guess your modules did not suffer to the extent that cells actually failed. Glad to hear that your car has been saved!
--
 

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I congratulate you, I hope mine one will run soon, at my car there is only left p18051c.

Thought I'd share my (ongoing) adventures getting my 2015 Smart Fortwo ED back into driving condition. Basically starting with the dreaded P18051C fault code being set in the BMS rendering the car unusable. Services missed. no warranty. yadda yadda. View attachment 64864
Removed and ripped the battery open. View attachment 64866 Disconnected the current sensor. The battery cells were deeply discharged. Some down to around 0.15V. ( I do acknowledge reviving depleted cells is very risky!) Tried using a couple hobby lipo balance chargers to bring the cells up but there were issues with tricking them into starting with a voltage under cutoff. Switched to using a DROK adjustable output boost converter to slowly bring each of the of the three battery modules up to 110V. Stopping at different points to check for cell imbalance and self discharge. I was very fortunate and every cell took and held voltage. View attachment 64865
At this point I decided sending the BMS off to get fixed was worth it. Ended up contacting GoSmart-Service in the Ukraine and sending it to him. He was quite helpful and turned the unit around and sent it back the next day.
BMS returned. Installed. New 12V battery and fingers crossed. Success! Car was taking a charge and driving again.
Voltage spread isn't horrible. A couple more cycles are needed to get a better capacity estimate. Made a ED_BMSdiag Arduino tool to get info from the car. View attachment 64867
The HV system workshop message still remains. There are a couple faults remaining but the one I think causing problems is
B1F6716 Control unit 'Crash sensor, high-voltage battery' has a malfunction. The limit value for electrical voltage has not been attained. Last mileage 24694.0 miles. Supply voltage 6.8 V. Need to do a little research and asking around but taking a break till the weekend.
 

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I was pretty sure the cause was sitting too long with a 12v battery that went bad. (It was the original) Wasn't wrecked. I didn't have any other fault info beside the dealer printout showing the battery pack codes and that it required a new hv battery.
As to having bad cells. I was quite lucky. I was honestly expecting a few to be bad but they all held their voltage for a over a month while the BMS was sent out.

How long was the car neglected, what was the presenting problem when you tried to use it one day? Or did you post earlier about it?

I can slowly apply charge to my modules but each module has from 2 to 4 cells that on the next day have lost their charge. So they charge along with the other cells but their leakage drains them overnight. Having identified these bad cells I plan to solder jumpers across them and finish bringing the rest of the module up to 4.0vdc for solar etc use. Of course I can't use my BMS strips or the BMS controller unit.

I guess your modules did not suffer to the extent that cells actually failed. Glad to hear that your car has been saved!
--
 

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Real good hint, even to send the UDS command frame 14 FF FF FF , which trigger to delete all DTC in a ECUs on the ODB or when you direct linked to it.

Is exact the same command sent on UDS protcoll by xentry or vediamo to delete all dtc's in the ECU. OK the failure is not stores in the BMS ;-)
You can find it in the trace log.

Also the failure seems to be related to the brown out of the 12V battery.

So no real issue and easy to solve :)

By the way we really miss an easy ELM327 APP or tool supporting the ED3.

A cheap solution but could not delete all dtc's is the Autel MaxAP200.
But there you beed to manuel select the car. Otherwise it would not work.
 

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The HV system workshop message still remains.
Had to take the car in to the dealer to reset the remaining codes. A higher price Autel scanner at a local shop couldn't do it. But anyway, the faults are all fixed!
 

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Great news. Let's hope that was all that you needed and you're good to go for a long time.

Len
 

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Hmmm on which level and voltage level you talking about?
Great news. Let's hope that was all that you needed and you're good to go for a long time.

Len
I choose to post to you as Moderator. I have a 2014 ED fortwo (manuf date Dec 2014). I purchased it after a three-year lease with 22,400 miles. In early 2018 a local dealer (southern CA, Riverside) stressed tested the traction battery and give it a good rating, I am a retired engineer and snowbird. I drive the car only as a pleasure vehicle in a retirement community it has 23,600 current miles. Knowing little about electric drives, I have left the car garaged each summer for 4-5 months. Knowing the battery has to be maintained I put the level one charger, 120V, on a cycle timer for one hour (+- 5%) of charge each week. During my absence in 2018 and again in 2019 I left with the battery at about a 60%-70% charge and on my return nothing bad had happened. When I returned both times the car was charged to nearly 100%. Life was good. This year on my return - BRICKED! no voltage in 12v or traction batteries. I checked the charger it is working fine, all green lights. I open the flooring and charged the 12V battery overnight to 13.8 volts. When I reattached it, the battery lit up the car and held that charge for 3-4 days at 12.4 or higher I then recharged the 12v it took to 14v.
I have read a great deal of the discussion board about how to reconstruct or rehabilitate the main battery. I do not believe I am capable of the onerous job you guys have been discussing. I am 77 years young and I stopped under-car repairs many moons ago.
The car is in great condition and I do not what to part it out for a few dollars. Are there other means of making this useable again?
My question to the group: Is there a way to purchase a rehabilitated battery? Or a good used Battery? Are there those among you who can rehabilitate my battery? Are there other solutions I need to know of, other than part-out a perfectly good vehicle?????
Thank you for your assistance.
 
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