I should have one spare. Just DM me.
Gratulation. Good Job.
To delete the failure in the crashsensor you need to use xentry or vediamo. After it should disappear.
There are in meantime several solutions to get rid off the P18051C
If somebody need help on this send me a PN .
OK. So we are happy to hear from you the real rootcause for the failure and what is to repair.I would say definitely not
your advice is not at all correct.
How long was the car neglected, what was the presenting problem when you tried to use it one day? Or did you post earlier about it?Thought I'd share my (ongoing) adventures getting my 2015 Smart Fortwo ED back into driving condition. [ElecDex]
Thought I'd share my (ongoing) adventures getting my 2015 Smart Fortwo ED back into driving condition. Basically starting with the dreaded P18051C fault code being set in the BMS rendering the car unusable. Services missed. no warranty. yadda yadda. View attachment 64864
Removed and ripped the battery open. View attachment 64866 Disconnected the current sensor. The battery cells were deeply discharged. Some down to around 0.15V. ( I do acknowledge reviving depleted cells is very risky!) Tried using a couple hobby lipo balance chargers to bring the cells up but there were issues with tricking them into starting with a voltage under cutoff. Switched to using a DROK adjustable output boost converter to slowly bring each of the of the three battery modules up to 110V. Stopping at different points to check for cell imbalance and self discharge. I was very fortunate and every cell took and held voltage. View attachment 64865
At this point I decided sending the BMS off to get fixed was worth it. Ended up contacting GoSmart-Service in the Ukraine and sending it to him. He was quite helpful and turned the unit around and sent it back the next day.
BMS returned. Installed. New 12V battery and fingers crossed. Success! Car was taking a charge and driving again.
Voltage spread isn't horrible. A couple more cycles are needed to get a better capacity estimate. Made a ED_BMSdiag Arduino tool to get info from the car. View attachment 64867
The HV system workshop message still remains. There are a couple faults remaining but the one I think causing problems is
B1F6716 Control unit 'Crash sensor, high-voltage battery' has a malfunction. The limit value for electrical voltage has not been attained. Last mileage 24694.0 miles. Supply voltage 6.8 V. Need to do a little research and asking around but taking a break till the weekend.
How long was the car neglected, what was the presenting problem when you tried to use it one day? Or did you post earlier about it?
I can slowly apply charge to my modules but each module has from 2 to 4 cells that on the next day have lost their charge. So they charge along with the other cells but their leakage drains them overnight. Having identified these bad cells I plan to solder jumpers across them and finish bringing the rest of the module up to 4.0vdc for solar etc use. Of course I can't use my BMS strips or the BMS controller unit.
I guess your modules did not suffer to the extent that cells actually failed. Glad to hear that your car has been saved!
As shown by our Ukraine friend and also proven by several others including me, it is clear possible to repair stacks and exchange cells. Just back from another successful job. Car running again. This time even with new cells never run in a smart before
Hmmm on which level and voltage level you talking about?
I choose to post to you as Moderator. I have a 2014 ED fortwo (manuf date Dec 2014). I purchased it after a three-year lease with 22,400 miles. In early 2018 a local dealer (southern CA, Riverside) stressed tested the traction battery and give it a good rating, I am a retired engineer and snowbird. I drive the car only as a pleasure vehicle in a retirement community it has 23,600 current miles. Knowing little about electric drives, I have left the car garaged each summer for 4-5 months. Knowing the battery has to be maintained I put the level one charger, 120V, on a cycle timer for one hour (+- 5%) of charge each week. During my absence in 2018 and again in 2019 I left with the battery at about a 60%-70% charge and on my return nothing bad had happened. When I returned both times the car was charged to nearly 100%. Life was good. This year on my return - BRICKED! no voltage in 12v or traction batteries. I checked the charger it is working fine, all green lights. I open the flooring and charged the 12V battery overnight to 13.8 volts. When I reattached it, the battery lit up the car and held that charge for 3-4 days at 12.4 or higher I then recharged the 12v it took to 14v.Great news. Let's hope that was all that you needed and you're good to go for a long time.