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Likewise 77 anums here - but as they say life begins at 80. 8^)

I approach this issue differently in that I DISconnect the 12v battery from the car during absences. This so far has protected the hv battery from the nefarious nature of the Daimler System. Unfortunately your scheme this time has failed possibly because there was a power outage or some other unplanned anomaly that provoked the Daimler Demons to do their worst deeds. By leaving the 12v connected you provide the power they require to do their mischief.

Had you fully charted all charging during the 4-5 months we might have a clue about what happened to your car. I imagine a 6 channel data recorder would be ideal for this research which really needs to be done here.

I just got back from a 26 day hiatus, yeah big whoop, and will dutifully report to that thread about my 2016 ED3 daily driver. I also have a 2014 with a bricked batt that I'm planning to 'convert to an EV' so stay tuned for that.

Sorry, you are not going to hear any good news re your situation. If you can make do with a really short-range Smart, like ~30 miles, then hold onto your car.
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I read your post in the other thread. You have now posted in a thread with lots of activity. Seems like a few guys have found solutions and there are a few guys who have offered to fix the problem for others, some for a cost, some not. I can't recommend anyone in particular, but I suspect help may be offered soon. I have not been through the situation you are in, so I've got no experience bringing a bad HV battery back to life. It is my impression that lots of EV's have been sold as is or parted out when the HV battery bricked itself. There is the theory out there that when the 12v battery goes bad, the HV battery also eventually discharges and the "death" switch is flipped after a period of time. Keep us posted on what you find out and what your end result is.

You've got to be extremely careful buying a used HV battery as it could be in a similar situation as yours. Just out of curiosity, was your 12v battery the original one?

Sorry, that's the best I can do.

Len
 

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Dear Moe,
i really feel bad reading the story on your experience.
I just got the information of a similar case with 80 years old senior here in Germany.

The reason for the issue with your traction battery was a bad 12V battery. It didn't hold the necessary energy between the weekly recharge of the traction battery any more.
In between the energy of the traction battery was used by an automatic setup to recharge the 12V till it reach the point where the internal DcDc converter acting as a charger could not be started any more. So I wondered about the green lights on your charger.

But how to solve the issue. For sure I would offer my helping hands to bring you back to the steering wheel. Only big issue is the distance and situation you could not work on the car your self.
Most easy solution would be to replace your traction battery against a knowing good one out of an accident. These are very rare and difficult to get.
You could make it a try to check the traction battery, but for this you need to take it out of the car and open it.

First of all you need to read out the failure codes of the battery. With a fresh 12V battery or a supporting 12V charger and a tester. I am sorry to say I expect in meantime all 3 stacks inside to not response to the try of read out.
This means if you charge it manually to a point you have the chance to check the status again or better before you check the response on slowly charging on every single cell with a voltmeter you will see there would maybe one or more cells which not response on the recharge. These owning stacks could be replaced but similar situation where to get knowing good in CA.
On the issues of the battery management system there is no big deal anymore. I would offer to check it free of chargen if you handle the transportation to me and back (Germany).
I missed already several necessary steps on the procedure in between like disconnect the current sensor but maybe not as mentioned by others to just unplug it. Better by unplug the connector on the side of the BMS.

OK if the stacks are OK, where in have my doubts, and the BMS ia corrected you could take it together again.

If the stacks own one or more bad cells the next deeper step again causes a big effort. There are ways to replace single cells as we (some) already did and do it here in Germany but also in Ukraine.
Here again it is difficult to become hand on the needed single cells but they are offered by some guys.

The mechanical behind it is very challenging and should only be done by experienced professionals.

All these steps causes a lot of work and need a lot of effort. So I am sorry to say enjoy your life by selling the broken car to a local expert and replace it against a running one or you needs to spend a big effort or lot of money to bring it back on the road again.

As mentioned above I offer my help and knowledge from Germany for free but never the less it is very very difficult.

If you have the chance to get hand on a Xentry or Vediamo Tester I could take a look via team viewer for a first diagnostics on your car.

JMK
 

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Forget to write,

As mentioned the 6 channel logger.
It is more easy to install a OVMS in the car. Here you will receive alerts if something is going wrong.
And also mentioned to store the car,
Charge him to 100%, uncharged it back to about 80-90%.
Then disconnect the 12Volt battery. There is also a special flag you could set with a tester supporting the long time storage, but never the less you need to check on the traction battery to be still ok time by time as there are some mechanism which drain energy.
 

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I choose to post to you as Moderator. I have a 2014 ED fortwo (manuf date Dec 2014). I purchased it after a three-year lease with 22,400 miles. In early 2018 a local dealer (southern CA, Riverside) stressed tested the traction battery and give it a good rating, I am a retired engineer and snowbird. I drive the car only as a pleasure vehicle in a retirement community it has 23,600 current miles. Knowing little about electric drives, I have left the car garaged each summer for 4-5 months. Knowing the battery has to be maintained I put the level one charger, 120V, on a cycle timer for one hour (+- 5%) of charge each week. During my absence in 2018 and again in 2019 I left with the battery at about a 60%-70% charge and on my return nothing bad had happened. When I returned both times the car was charged to nearly 100%. Life was good. This year on my return - BRICKED! no voltage in 12v or traction batteries. I checked the charger it is working fine, all green lights. I open the flooring and charged the 12V battery overnight to 13.8 volts. When I reattached it, the battery lit up the car and held that charge for 3-4 days at 12.4 or higher I then recharged the 12v it took to 14v.
I have read a great deal of the discussion board about how to reconstruct or rehabilitate the main battery. I do not believe I am capable of the onerous job you guys have been discussing. I am 77 years young and I stopped under-car repairs many moons ago.
The car is in great condition and I do not what to part it out for a few dollars. Are there other means of making this useable again?
My question to the group: Is there a way to purchase a rehabilitated battery? Or a good used Battery? Are there those among you who can rehabilitate my battery? Are there other solutions I need to know of, other than part-out a perfectly good vehicle?????
Thank you for your assistance.
For around $11,000 your local MB dealer can replace the battery. I don't know of a shop that will do this kind of work of rehabilitating the battery. it is about the most dangerous thing that can be done.
 

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On www.car-part.com there is ONE battery for sale in Woodstock ON Canada for $1542.08 USD ($2000 CAD). I’m somewhat near and young enough to do manual labor, but no experience and no equipment to revive/manipulate an EV battery....
 

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Does Woodstock know the actual SOC of that battery?? If the battery is out of the car then the only way to measure the voltage is to remove the cover which is a tedious task. So lotsa luck!


MB is now offering rebuilt-from-factory hv batts for $12.6kUS installed with a 3 month wait. (they need your core also).
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Likewise 77 anums here - but as they say life begins at 80. 8^)

I approach this issue differently in that I DISconnect the 12v battery from the car during absences. This so far has protected the hv battery from the nefarious nature of the Daimler System. Unfortunately your scheme this time has failed possibly because there was a power outage or some other unplanned anomaly that provoked the Daimler Demons to do their worst deeds. By leaving the 12v connected you provide the power they require to do their mischief.

Had you fully charted all charging during the 4-5 months we might have a clue about what happened to your car. I imagine a 6 channel data recorder would be ideal for this research which really needs to be done here.

I just got back from a 26 day hiatus, yeah big whoop, and will dutifully report to that thread about my 2016 ED3 daily driver. I also have a 2014 with a bricked batt that I'm planning to 'convert to an EV' so stay tuned for that.

Sorry, you are not going to hear any good news re your situation. If you can make do with a really short-range Smart, like ~30 miles, then hold onto your car.
--
Thank you so much for your kind response
 

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I read your post in the other thread. You have now posted in a thread with lots of activity. Seems like a few guys have found solutions and there are a few guys who have offered to fix the problem for others, some for a cost, some not. I can't recommend anyone in particular, but I suspect help may be offered soon. I have not been through the situation you are in, so I've got no experience bringing a bad HV battery back to life. It is my impression that lots of EV's have been sold as is or parted out when the HV battery bricked itself. There is the theory out there that when the 12v battery goes bad, the HV battery also eventually discharges and the "death" switch is flipped after a period of time. Keep us posted on what you find out and what your end result is.

You've got to be extremely careful buying a used HV battery as it could be in a similar situation as yours. Just out of curiosity, was your 12v battery the original one?

Sorry, that's the best I can do.

Len
Thank you for your kind response, I also believe the 12v died and set the HV into shutdown.
 

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Dear Moe,
i really feel bad reading the story on your experience.
I just got the information of a similar case with 80 years old senior here in Germany.

The reason for the issue with your traction battery was a bad 12V battery. It didn't hold the necessary energy between the weekly recharge of the traction battery any more.
In between the energy of the traction battery was used by an automatic setup to recharge the 12V till it reach the point where the internal DcDc converter acting as a charger could not be started any more. So I wondered about the green lights on your charger.

But how to solve the issue. For sure I would offer my helping hands to bring you back to the steering wheel. Only big issue is the distance and situation you could not work on the car your self.
Most easy solution would be to replace your traction battery against a knowing good one out of an accident. These are very rare and difficult to get.
You could make it a try to check the traction battery, but for this you need to take it out of the car and open it.

First of all you need to read out the failure codes of the battery. With a fresh 12V battery or a supporting 12V charger and a tester. I am sorry to say I expect in meantime all 3 stacks inside to not response to the try of read out.
This means if you charge it manually to a point you have the chance to check the status again or better before you check the response on slowly charging on every single cell with a voltmeter you will see there would maybe one or more cells which not response on the recharge. These owning stacks could be replaced but similar situation where to get knowing good in CA.
On the issues of the battery management system there is no big deal anymore. I would offer to check it free of chargen if you handle the transportation to me and back (Germany).
I missed already several necessary steps on the procedure in between like disconnect the current sensor but maybe not as mentioned by others to just unplug it. Better by unplug the connector on the side of the BMS.

OK if the stacks are OK, where in have my doubts, and the BMS ia corrected you could take it together again.

If the stacks own one or more bad cells the next deeper step again causes a big effort. There are ways to replace single cells as we (some) already did and do it here in Germany but also in Ukraine.
Here again it is difficult to become hand on the needed single cells but they are offered by some guys.

The mechanical behind it is very challenging and should only be done by experienced professionals.

All these steps causes a lot of work and need a lot of effort. So I am sorry to say enjoy your life by selling the broken car to a local expert and replace it against a running one or you needs to spend a big effort or lot of money to bring it back on the road again.

As mentioned above I offer my help and knowledge from Germany for free but never the less it is very very difficult.

If you have the chance to get hand on a Xentry or Vediamo Tester I could take a look via team viewer for a first diagnostics on your car.

JMK
Thank you for your kind offer to help me but, I do not have the electronic's skills to test and rebuild the battery. Can an MB tech (at a local dealer) test the traction battery while it is bricked? Or does it have to have some charge before it can be tested? I would be willing to buy a new 12v if that is all it takes to enable a diagnostic test on the Traction battery,
 

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Does Woodstock know the actual SOC of that battery?? If the battery is out of the car then the only way to measure the voltage is to remove the cover which is a tedious task. So lotsa luck!
Why to open? You need a Adapter and a obd dongle or better Vediamo to attach to the system connector and read out with 12Volt attached. We are in the time of digital transformation, no need for smoke on the water in Woodstock :)

I had in the past one lucky guy who could charge again after exchange 12V battery and reset the system in a shop, but i don't believe your case is similar.

But you could try, i hope the best. I just helped 2 again.
 

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You need a Adapter and a obd dongle or better Vediamo to attach to the system connector and read out with 12Volt attached. [Jmk2020]
Oh, is that all? Amazon could drone-ship, but please don't forget the instruction sheets!
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Does Woodstock know the actual SOC of that battery?? If the battery is out of the car then the only way to measure the voltage is to remove the cover which is a tedious task. So lotsa luck!


MB is now offering rebuilt-from-factory hv batts for $12.6kUS installed with a 3 month wait. (they need your core also).
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I would call them and ask if they know anything about it's current state of charge, what their warranty might be if any....

The suggestion was made to try to find a used one from a wreck. I just did the legwork/finger work and reported that there is one.....

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
 

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Was discussing possibly buying a pair of rental smart EDs from a new user on here. Wasn't sure of a fair price to offer for the two dead cars I researched finding replacement High Voltage batteries, then notified him wife said "no" but there is this potentially super cheap replacement battery. My faith is back in Mercedes Benz if it's truly an option.



Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
 

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...but there is this potentially super cheap replacement battery. My faith is back in Mercedes Benz if it's truly an option.

Dunno that I’d get too excited and, HAZMAT shipping could kill this deal?
  • List Price: $840.00
  • You Save: $84.00 (10% off)
  • Sale Price: $756.00
  • Core Charge: $5,500.00 Core Charge Applies
 

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I just chatted online with these folks, all they can do is call me back or email to confirm order. So it may work, who knows??

I'll drive my core to Bev Hills and pick up the reman. Even if it only has a 2 year warranty, LOL.

The dead car is still up on blocks as per avatar so hope this deal is for real.

VR. PNW USA
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Think about Daimler having resumed remanning the ED3 battery after a long(?) absence and yet no customers are lining up for the privilege of coughing up over $12,000.00 for likely a 2 year warranted rebuilt traction battery. Looks bad for MB. So maybe this is a backdoor maneuver by upper management - over pricing the core and greatly reducing the listed price etc to start moving these remans out the door. Haven't heard back yet.

MB Bev Hills said these remans are coming from LA area and not from Europe. If it was Europe it would be easy to ship to 'your local MB dealer' but Parts said this could not be done. And it should be 'FreeOnBoard' at MB Bev Hills ie no hazmat surcharge. We shall see. :p
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And it should be 'FreeOnBoard' at MB Bev Hills ie no hazmat surcharge. We shall see. :p
Appears to be a some conflicting information?

Obviously either the cost or the Core Charge is incorrect?

“Remanufactured” yet Condition: New?

HazMat: This part contains hazardous materials. Extra shipping costs apply.

These additional charges usually include the appropriate safe handling crate/pallet and shipping by a specialized carrier.

Tried to force a shipping quote but failed, doubt it would be FOB?
 
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