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I have 2 ED3 batts out in a trailer so I can measure for you. But first tell me why you want to know.!!
VR
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Hi, for an electric car conversion, want to make sure that the battery pack would fit in a space where I want to put it. I've been a Smart car enthusiast and proud owner of both gas and electric drive Smart cars ever since they became available here in US in 2008, I had a lease on two ED3 cars between 2013-2016 & 2016-2019 and never had any issues, I have a 453 model now as a work commute car. I guess I can always measure the gas tank in my 453 as I'm 100% positive the mounting points are absolutely identical in ICE and Electric Drive, but wanted to see if anyone had the exact dimensions of the battery pack while its off the car. Thank you!
 

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The batt box is bolted to the frame rails on both sides of the car and fits between them, so therefore it will be narrower than the entire o.d. of the vehicle. 451 vs 453 = 2 different animals, assume nothing is the same between them.

Mmm . . . electrifying an old Harley ServiceCycle are we?
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the gas tank would be of the same length and width as the battery box on either 451 or 453 model, it’s just nobody is willing to take/provide the exact measurements of the real thing for more than a week now :(
 

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Time to speed up the discussion a little bit again and unhide some information :cool:

This is the 32 pol CMC (Molex) connector of the BMS. (by the way nice breakout adapter )

View attachment 64499

You need to connect GND on H1
+12V on H2 (KL15) and H3 (or H4) (KL30)
+12V on G4 (KL30C) as this pin is the supply of the upper pins of the contactor coils coming indirect via pyrofuse. By this way in case of emergency the BMS is locked down. By the way you can override the Pyrofuse to charge the battery. It only open the KL30C loop and also the Interlock loop.

Connect CAN Bus on EV_CAN Low and High and add a 60 Ohm resistor as the Multiplexer (or OpenPort 2.0) and also the BMS on the EV-CAN pins do not own the necessary 120 Ohm termination resistors inside.

By the way the idea of junk yard mode is rubbish, because the CRASH_IN pin es even not connected at all on ED3 :) There is a hidden electrical damage, which need to be corrected to be save on this.

Also the Current Sensor which need to be disconnect is a need by saving it for becoming destroyed by the issue of the brownout or better coming back of the battery stacks during charging.
Also the P18051C is not related to the stacks and 0V cells at all :) The situation of a not defined status by discharged batteries and cells cause an issue on a internal power supply (and read out of the system) as soon you power up the main part of BMS in the unhealthy condition again.

I can tell you also the HV measurement part is supplied by the whole serial voltage of all 3 stacks. The minus is the connection on the current sensor. The plus is direct connected to the + terminal of the upper contactor.
The main controller part of BMS switch on the relays, which power up the isolated HV measurement part. Also the current sensor is switched on by one of these relays.

I know and understand the solution from our friend of the Ukraine, but i don't like to use the sledgehammer instead of the fine skalpell. ;-) And yes even single cells could be exchanged and stacks could be repaired.

So lets dig in step by step and please report you success :) More information on Quid pro quo :)
Hi,
Please tell me where the boot pin in this BMS?
Thx
 
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