[mcowher]

So I plugged in an Elm327, paired it with my Windows 10 laptop, and issued the following commands from Bluetooth Serial Terminal:

atsh 7e7
04 14 FF FF FF 00 00 00

waited for it to come back after about a minute, then did these commands:

atsh 7e5
04 14 FF FF FF 00 00 00

Both commands seemed to be accepted by the session, but the HV System Workshop message remains, even after a restart of the car. And the codes remained when I later plugged the Foxwell NT510.

At this point, I'm considering buying the Mucar V06, or possibly buying a cleared BMS module from Bill Kichman.

 

[mcowher]

UPDATE: After buying an OpenPort 2.0 device, installing Vediamo 4.2.2 and working with Jmk2020, we were able to clear ALL the error codes from my car. The HV Workshop error is now gone!

 

[Jmk2020]

I was happy to help. There where plenty of stored not active failure stored in several systems caused by starting deep discharge.
Luckily the 12V battery was not totally dead before the issue was detected and the 12V battery was exchanged.
The still stored failures could not be cleared without the right equipment.

By the way, as the rootcause of deep discarge was not finished, the stored failure in the other ECUs cause the dash board message. Even he exchange the BMS in the battery, which was totally not necessary would not had solved the issue..

Right tooling is key.

 

[N9QQD]

Does anybody try to a DIY solar kit for the car? Like in this review websolarguide.com/am-solar-gate-opener/

 

[N9QQD]

Well the Car has 17.6KWh and goes 70 mile that is about 250 Watt hour per mile. One solar panel for a house produces 250 to 300 Watt at full sunlight. That would be about 1 mile an hour per solar panel. I bought eight 200 W solar panel and charging a bank of Golf cart batteries from Costco. That is 1600 Watt at full sunlight. I needed 12 hour sunlight to charge the Samrt car. Now it rain a lot in Seattle, so the solar panel don't produce that much. Right now only 400 Watt total. Just enough for to keep the golf car batteries charged and to run my office with my rigged UPS Backup power supply. To Charge the Smart with Solar panel you need a few Acres

 

[Yinzer]

Well the Car has 17.6KWh and goes 70 mile that is about 250 Watt hour per mile. One solar panel for a house produces 250 to 300 Watt at full sunlight. That would be about 1 mile an hour per solar panel. I bought eight 200 W solar panel and charging a bank of Golf cart batteries from Costco. That is 1600 Watt at full sunlight. I needed 12 hour sunlight to charge the Samrt car. Now it rain a lot in Seattle, so the solar panel don't produce that much. Right now only 400 Watt total. Just enough for to keep the golf car batteries charged and to run my office with my rigged UPS Backup power supply. To Charge the Smart with Solar panel you need a few Acres

A square meter of solar panels can produce 700 watts on a sunny day. An acre of them would produce 2840 kilowatts. You only need about 4 kilowatts of capacity to charge the ED at its charger's maximum output. So that would be about 5.7 m^2 or about 60 square feet - or say 120 square feet allowing for less that optimal sunny conditions. That is just maybe 3 times the footprint of the Smart car itself.

 

[N9QQD]

I used the data from my panel. It is about 1.25M^2 and produces 190W at the most. Just saying it rain a lot in Seattle and it is overcast.
My Smart is Alive again. BMS reprogramming and Current Sensor did the trick. Today it is Sunny a time to get out the H D Electra Glide and go for a ride.

 

[saml01]

UPDATE: After buying an OpenPort 2.0 device, installing Vediamo 4.2.2 and working with Jmk2020, we were able to clear ALL the error codes from my car. The HV Workshop error is now gone!

Could have also done this:

Another 12V battery thread - HV System Malf. Error...

Good Morning, I have a 2015 Smart Fortwo ED. This morning I came outside, unplugged the car from the charger, turned the key and I was greeted with many errors one was a "brake system failure" (I didnt hear it run), it mentioned a "HV System Workshop", "Do not tow", and then said to go for...

www.smartcarofamerica.com

 

[mcowher]

Could have also done this:

Another 12V battery thread - HV System Malf. Error...

Good Morning, I have a 2015 Smart Fortwo ED. This morning I came outside, unplugged the car from the charger, turned the key and I was greeted with many errors one was a "brake system failure" (I didnt hear it run), it mentioned a "HV System Workshop", "Do not tow", and then said to go for...

www.smartcarofamerica.com

Nope that wouldn't have worked I don't believe. I also own a Foxwell NT510 that is very similar to the device from that thread, but it wasn't able to clear all the codes.

The Openport/Vediamo combo allowed for more aggressive clearing of codes along with the manual recoding of the HV issue.

 

[saml01]

Nope that wouldn't have worked I don't believe. I also own a Foxwell NT510 that is very similar to the device from that thread, but it wasn't able to clear all the codes.

The Openport/Vediamo combo allowed for more aggressive clearing of codes along with the manual recoding of the HV issue.

IMHO, i had a bunch of codes like you, including the hv workshop and it cleared it.

I got a new problem now, but my solution is much easier. Sell the car.

What were the series of commands you entered for the deep cleaning?

 

[mcowher]

He did it pretty fast while i was watching but maybe jmk2020 can explain a little further. We used a set of QuickTest tests with the Clear Error option selected but from what I remember there were 1 or 2 remaining BMS errors he had to go deeper and clear manually with some byte entries.

 

[Yinzer]

View attachment 70032
I used the data from my panel. It is about 1.25M^2 and produces 190W at the most. Just saying it rain a lot in Seattle and it is overcast.
My Smart is Alive again. BMS reprogramming and Current Sensor did the trick. Today it is Sunny a time to get out the H D Electra Glide and go for a ride.

You are right. I pulled that 700 watt per M^2 figure from a website without even thinking if it was reasonable. Total solar energy per square meter on a surface facing the sun on the clearest day is only about 1000 watt per sq m, so yeah, maybe 250 watt for the best cells in the best conditions.

 

[saml01]

He did it pretty fast while i was watching but maybe jmk2020 can explain a little further. We used a set of QuickTest tests with the Clear Error option selected but from what I remember there were 1 or 2 remaining BMS errors he had to go deeper and clear manually with some byte entries.

@Jmk2020 Would you care to share the procedure?

 

[Jmk2020]

More or less i wrote a special short test for vediamo, which allows to check all ECUs of the ED3.
It is similar to the clear all failures of Xentry/DAS.
Only advantage seems to me, you could use a cheaper J2534 device than a SD C4 tester. But still there you need some tricks for nasty failures and you need experience.
Just yesterday i need to help somebody who totally killed his ED ECU software configuration.

And facing the P18051C and other similar failures you need additional HW knowledge.

So very difficult to provide this knowledge.

 

[saml01]

More or less i wrote a special short test for vediamo, which allows to check all ECUs of the ED3.
It is similar to the clear all failures of Xentry/DAS.
Only advantage seems to me, you could use a cheaper J2534 device than a SD C4 tester. But still there you need some tricks for nasty failures and you need experience.
Just yesterday i need to help somebody who totally killed his ED ECU software configuration.

And facing the P18051C and other similar failures you need additional HW knowledge.

So very difficult to provide this knowledge.

Start at the begging.

If you have the source where you learned it, maybe link us to that.

 

[N9QQD]

Saturday I worked on My VW Jetta, At last inspection, not to long ago, the dealer said the brake looked good. All that noise and shaking wasn't to assuring. So I took a look and OMG. The inside pad where gone. Cant really see it unless you take the saddle off. So with both brake dismantle and the flat tire on my Caddy, I took the Smart to the Autopartstore. Got all the error message on the Dash 12V battery show red, yellow triangle with lightning bolt is on HV to Workshop displayed, time not set Even with all the errors displayed the car drove nice with lots of go power. it went from 80% to 40% over 20 miles. topped it of to 60% went back to the store the 3rd time and it went only down to 50% on 10 miles. I need to schedule a front end alignment and get new front tire that should help with the power consumption. When I hooked the car up to the charge cable the 12 Volt battery goes to 15 Volt that 0.2Volt higher than the equalization voltage for a flooded Battery and 0.4 more than the boost charge. The alternator on an ICE is usually at 14.4Volt. Also the 12 Volt increased to 14.99volt while driving. Also when the HV Battery is at 100% my charge cable turn off, the Wattmeter goes from 1750W to 0, I need to get one of the special 250VAC 20A connector and try charging with 240V from the dryer outlet or from my Deutsche Steckdose( german Outlet) in my garage.
With all the error message on the dash I don't see the normal display. I have an Openport2.0 coming in the mail. I hope the box is small enough for the P.O. box at the post office. if not I see it in three weeks. one thing I need is the VEDIAMO Software. Could find a site online. Is there a link to a good site.

 

[Vincent Rapide]

14.99vdc could indicate a poor connection to the 12v battery as well as just a bad battery.

 

[N9QQD]

The 12V Current sensor said it is -40F at the 12 V battery. Maybe the DC/DC inverter take this info into consideration and increase to Voltage for a cold battery. I hope this is a short week so I have more home time to work on this. This was a very short weekend. Came home Sunday and of again today.

 

[Vincent Rapide]

See 'bad outside temp sensor' post in recent thread. This may stop 12v charging.
--

 

[N9QQD]

Everything is working now. JMK2020 remotely cleared the errors and the car is happy. The temperature from B95 current sensor did reset after I reseated the plug on the sensor. That was before clearing all the errors. This also changed the charge voltage from 15V down to13.8V - 14Volt, what is inspected from an Alternator on an ICE. Two things that need to be addressed, the front end alignment and finding where the 3Amp disapper to when the car is off. A few Millliamp to keep the computer on alert i would understand
.

I did some optical Tuning. And yes I was in the Faraday cage and got zapped by 4.5 Mega-volts at the Museum of Sparks