[mcowher]

Glad JMK2020 was able to help you as well! I'm assuming this was done via VEDIAMO with the Openport 2.0?

 

[N9QQD]

Yes it was done with Vediamo and Openport 2.0
Today I am back from Vacation. I had an appointment with Firestone to do the front end alignment. But the Hunter Hawkeye alignment machine did not recognizied my car. Another Alignment shop told me this car is to small. But this is not part of the Battery issue. So I need to look around in the Forum.

I have one Idea to protect the current sensor from over voltage from the DC/DC inverter in the BMS. Installing two resistors in the supply and signal line for the current sensor or only one in the supply line to the current sensor and install Zener Diodes of 15 or 16 Volt to protect the current sensor from overvoltage.
Or if the 12 Volt Battery goes low then interlock the "ignition" KL15 H2 on dont let it energize until the 12V Battery is charged.
Just some ideas.

 

[Jmk2020]

install Zener Diodes of 15 or 16 Volt to protect the current sensor from overvoltage.
Or if the 12 Volt Battery goes low then interlock the "ignition" KL15 H2 on dont let it energize until the 12V Battery is charged.
Just some ideas.

Good initial idea but wrong direction of solution.
A Resistor will not help if there are HV glitches after the DCDC converter.
The resistor Zener Powersupply will be too high ohmig for short pulses of current drain inside and still this voltage pulses could cause the P18051C. Ok this could be prevented by the blocking of KL15 in Low voltage condition but still the other HW issues inside BMS is triggered to damage the BMS HW.
So if you want you could install a Linear low voltage drop LDO for 12V. The nominal 13,4 Volt should be enough.

Better solution would be a circuit which disconnect the KL30 on low voltage.
Only issue, in real environment glitches from Combustion engine ignition and starter could go below 6V. This is the reason the power supply of the controllers owns a special buck boost topology supplying the microcontroller even in this conditions.

As the Dcdc converter could be switched on bei KL15 or by software ( for example on wakeup of BMS) by CPEC in low voltage conditions, it is not too easy to find a appropriate solution.

 

[N9QQD]

Just read up on these LDO, did not know that these existed. I knew about linear regulator, but there you need a higher input voltage. So far so good, the car runs great and I keep the 12 Volt Battery on a regulated charger for now. Saturday hopefully they can get my front end aligned. Than I have to drop the battery on more time to seal it up.
The car is fun to drive and the guys in their big pickup think there king of the road while I keep up with their acceleration from a stop light, then when they are at max power with their big V8 engine, and I am still on their side, then I floor it and be a few car length ahead. Blow their mind. That bring me back to my Opel Manta B years when I was younger. (Bo-eh) But the ECO meter does not like that LOL

I also drove it in High mileage mode, trying to get the best "gas-mileage" out of the car. I got the ECO meter show 100% and i got 4.3mpkWh or 6.9KM per kWh.

 

[N9QQD]

Hi
I had no time yet, to drop the battery to seal it. I drove the car locally and it still more fun than hopping in the gasburner and drive around. Saturday I used the Smart to rescue my stuck John Deer mover. The Smart had no problems with that.

 

[Laurie_SmartF2 EV 2014]

I presently have a HV battery problem that likely stemmed from a 12V battery problem, when it gets solved that might be a great solution for "trickle charging" Did you set up that solar charging for your EV?

Laurie

 

[N9QQD]

I don' have a solar charger for the 12V battery. I use a 4Amp Charger from Harbor Freight, one of those intelligent charger.
I finally got the battery back in again. I had the Traction Battery out on sealed it. While I was working on this I also removed the head lamp because the mount for the adjuster is broken off. I tried Superglue but it only glue my finger together and the adjuster mount fell right off.
I see Electric Smart like I have for $10 to $13K in the used car papers. The VW dealer offered me $3000. Ha, no way. I keep it. It to much fun to drive.

 

[N9QQD]

Went to the hospital in Tacoma today, just in case i called a friend to get me towed if needed. I made it back with 21% left on the battery and 17 miles to empty. I drove 55 miles. That would be 72 miles, so very accurate. And the "gasmileage" was 4.2Miles per KWH.

 

[Spaceballs3000]

Also for you, the P18051C is easy.
Where are you located in US. There several here in the forum, who could offer a regional solution.

Just read the other threads.

Got used Smart ED, I got HV battery charged up and all error codes but P18051C is left.
I've worked with other EV HV electronics before and designed CAN devices for them.
Does anyone know the procedure to get rid of it? I likely have the skill set/tools to do if it's just reprogram flash/eeprom/jtag/etc.

 

[N9QQD]

Hi
Just checking in. I am on the road a lot lately (well in the air) traveling east and south 4 hours to Chicago 3hours to Phoenix. Good that everyone uses AC in there facilities, make working better at customer sites. On the weedend I drive my Smart. So far so good. I guess the computer recognizes my driving style and adjust teh range accordingly. I am now down to 60 miles a charge. Too many Blitz Starts. Now I am trying to get the miles back to 70 per charge,but being in a rule area ( ganz weit Draussen) many people drive big pickup truck F150, RAM 2500, the Macho guys don't like little car. I coast to a red light or Stop sign, they start honking.
One thing I noticed with the car, after a good charge my Regen braking did not work until I drove a little. I guess the computer did not want to overcharge the battery. Right now I keep the 12 Volt battery on my standby charger while the car is at home and not being used. I have not used a public charging station yet. I do not have to drive that far anyway and with the 3KW charger it a mute point. One thing I have to do is to connect the Laptop to the car and see if I can delete some orphan error code. I had the 12Volt Battery disconnected for removing the Tracking battery and to seal it. it caused some error stored codes.

 

[Jmk2020]

You could reset the 2 tripcounter and will have after a starting in 70 miles again. To do so push the left arrow button on display till the displayed value reset to zero for both display screens.

Also the recuperation after full charging is typical 0 this means no regeneration brakes for the first few miles.

 

[TonyTT]

Good initial idea but wrong direction of solution.
A Resistor will not help if there are HV glitches after the DCDC converter.
The resistor Zener Powersupply will be too high ohmig for short pulses of current drain inside and still this voltage pulses could cause the P18051C. Ok this could be prevented by the blocking of KL15 in Low voltage condition but still the other HW issues inside BMS is triggered to damage the BMS HW.
So if you want you could install a Linear low voltage drop LDO for 12V. The nominal 13,4 Volt should be enough.

Better solution would be a circuit which disconnect the KL30 on low voltage.
Only issue, in real environment glitches from Combustion engine ignition and starter could go below 6V. This is the reason the power supply of the controllers owns a special buck boost topology supplying the microcontroller even in this conditions.

As the Dcdc converter could be switched on bei KL15 or by software ( for example on wakeup of BMS) by CPEC in low voltage conditions, it is not too easy to find a appropriate solution.

Hi, I'm needing help with repair, can you contact me? I can start chat yet.

Thanks

 

[sokoloff]

TonyTT - you're "chatting" right here. Let us know what's going on?

Len

 

[bill.kichman]

TonyTT, I am available if you need a BMS reset, once you disassemble the pack. You've got a ramp up of learning, a bit, but it's worth it if you want your car fixed.
I'm here in the states (PA). I'm rebuilding a second pack I bought recently (sold as "1" bad cell, actually more than a dozen, but..). Working out a clamp method to reattach replacement cells, since welding is out of the question and bolts or rivets are messy and dangerous, given the metal shards. I've found a source for replacement cells if you need any. They do need a little mod to reroute the electrical tabs, but that's easy.

 

[Vincent Rapide]

Are those replacement cells brand new? Please take some photos of them and also your process as it inevitably evolves. Might be easier to replace all 93 cells using same BMS which would give you a brand new car for most means and purposes.
--

 

[Vincent Rapide]

Good encouraging news for owners of 'bricked' Smart EDs sitting in their yards: If you follow scientific news wrt Lithium battery development you may have heard adding sulphur to the mix significantly improves the KWHs vs physical size/weight of the batteries. Meaning 3x the power for the same size , or much smaller size for the same KWHs. Also replacing Li with Na (sodium) helps too but mostly because it is cheaper.

What this smaller footprint for the same KWHs offers the SmartED is an easier way to rebuild the battery box with fresh new cells that will easily fit in the OEM space and also maybe use the same BMS so the result will be plug-n-play.
--

 

[Jmk2020]

Without the detailed knowledge to modify the BMS firmware, you need to stay in the charging window of 3,2V ( not below 3,0v) and 4,199V ( <4,2V) and 31 Zells for the overall 93 cells.

 

[Vincent Rapide]

The only Li cells that I know of that have different voltage range is LTO (Lithium Titanate) which Honda put in their FIT. Nominal voltage is 2.4v +/- which is much lower than what we see with other chemistries which are nominally 3.7v +/-. I hope these future cells will stay around 3.7v.
--

 

[Black Valkyrie]

New member here in Canada... have waded through this entire topic as there is a bricked ED for sale near me and doing some research. @ColinK seems to be listed as the Canuckian capable of helping with BMS? What charging equipment do I need to manually charge the battery packs. Thanks all! Very interesting!

 

[ElecDex]

So back at the end of 2020 my 2015 Fortwo ED end up with a bricked HV battery. I was able to recharge the cells and sent the BMS overseas to fix the stored codes. Reassembled and success.
Well, while not in my care the 12v and then the HV battery died again. I slowly charged the cells again but this time the voltage spread is greater. Min 2.54V. Max 3.12V after bulk charging
Also these codes are stored in the BMS but not the P18051C code this time.

• P1D799A - Contactor of the HV battery module has been opened due to a release fault. The operating conditions for the component or the system are not fulfilled.
• U01A2FA - CAN communication with the internal control unit for monitoring the battery cells (C) is faulty.
• P0DE6FB - The cell voltages of the HV battery module are too low.
• PODE6FA - The cell voltages of the HV battery module are too low.
• P1D7800 - protection against battery discharging in the HV battery module is activated.
• P14F300 - The internal functions of the HV battery module have been deactivated due to cell voltage being too low.
• P180D13 - Control unit 'HV battery' has performed a system shutoff. there is an open circuit.

To those with more experience. Think the battery is savable this time, BMS clearable with the right tools?
Located near Portland, OR.