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Evans antifreeze

3638 Views 24 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  jimvw57
has anyone used this in their Smart? is just following the drain and fill procedure sufficient (using the Evans cleaner and antifreeze) ?

Since it is such a pain I'd like to do it once and then it's good the rest of it's life
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There are a number of aftermarket coolants that also claim to be a 'lifetime' product and would not require a complete draining, flushing of the old coolant, and using a conditioner to strip all the surfaces to get rid of any residual leftover coolant before installing the new coolant. That sounds a bit extreme unless there is a specific need for the enhanced coolant, such as an extreme environment or load on the motor.

Peak makes a "Global Lifetime" coolant that should do the trick just as well, and can be added to any type of existing coolant without a problem.

https://peakauto.com/products/antifreeze-and-cool/auto/globallifetime-5050/
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...just a word of caution...if you decide to change the keep cool juice....be aware of bubbles

Jetfuel...not Bubbles...a girl I knew many moons ago...
I know her.. she is so... effervescent >:D
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Looking over the Evans tech tips is somewhat confusing as they talk about over driving or under driving the water pump, restricting the radiator flow, or opening up the flow, and the coolant temp compared to metal temp of the system. Sounds like too much work to me. I guess I would stick to the factory tested 50/50 mix and leave it at that. They also mention the need to replace the regular coolant when the mixture ratio is off due to evaporation or boiling over, and the need to replace the Evans coolant if it becomes contaminated. to me that sounds like you need to carry a jug of coolant in case it is needed. It may not be available at the local fuel station. Probably not a good idea for a commuter car, or for a cross country trip.

Same problem when synthetic oil was first introduced and it couldn't be mixed with regular oil. Then along came Mobil1 which could be mixed with regular oil (but not recommended) at least you had an alternative if you got stuck with no synthetic oil available.

Just my opinion.
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Less than a year ago I changed out the radiator and complete front end. One of the reasons I am a big advocate for deer hunting I guess, so I don't have much time on the coolant in my smart. I did run my old Expedition for over 300K miles without any coolant problems and it used DexCool, which was a lifetime coolant. never had any overheating, or head gasket leaks, etc. and I was pretty rough on it. Lots of towing loads a bit too big, and the only thing i ever did besides the Mobil 1 oil changes was changing the trans fluid every 30K miles. It would start to act up if it wasn't changed. I was told at 70K miles my trans was in need of replacement and after changing the fluid, it worked fine. at 300K miles, I still had not replaced the transmission and it was working fine. So much for the dealership mechanics..

I'd say if it works, leave it. If you have a special need for something else, then change it. As for the molecular makeup, Too small to worry about it
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The voltage comes about when you have dis-similar metal in a liquid. Once the coolant becomes more acidic, it will promote more of the electrolysis that occurs. The little balls in the pipette measures the specific gravity of the fluid and based on that, gives you a protection level for the coolant. however, i doesn't measure the breakdown of the coolant, other tests will give that information.

Whew! that was all my brain can hold these days.
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pretty accurate, but since his coolant failed every test, I would have replaced it just on the first visual scan test, You don't want any of that nasty debris in the coolant. I have seen coolant with straw and metal flakes in it, an indication of cracked block, or leaking somewhere and someone added a sealer or stop leak before selling the car. Walk away!!
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Sounds like it was in there when he got the truck (??)
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