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Evans antifreeze

3639 Views 24 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  jimvw57
has anyone used this in their Smart? is just following the drain and fill procedure sufficient (using the Evans cleaner and antifreeze) ?

Since it is such a pain I'd like to do it once and then it's good the rest of it's life
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I had the Peak Global Lifetime put in a ‘10 CTS-V when it was due for a change for the intercooler and main coolant. It is unclear from their wording whether it needs a change or not later to keep that warranty, but it does cover a certain monetary amount for repairs. (If you have a hard time finding it, I found the pre-mixed version at Walgreens! Of all places.....)
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I like to take a peek at what is inside these mystery formulations, so I look up the MSDS, hehe : Waterless Engine Coolant - SDS.pdf
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what was your opinion on the MSDS sheet Jzchen?

thank you to all for your candid thoughts
I actually didn't know about this product, until someone here mentioned it, a little while back.

Since I took Organic Chemistry like 3 times, literally, before it took in my brain, I actually ended up being the top of my class, so I like looking into things chemical wise. (But still, even though I've pulled the MSDS of Marvel Mystery Oil before, I didn't think of pulling (google searching) the MSDS of Evans until yesterday. I am guessing brain farts only get worse as I will get older!)

It is ethylene glycol, 80 to 85%. There are 2% other products accounted for. The remaining 13 to 18 % is unaccounted for. I did not think about those 2% stuff. Too small % for now, unless you'd like me to? (I just saw them and 1% each, whatever...)

Like most things in life, there are pros and cons of almost everything.

The heat transfer properties are probably poorer. That is why the coolant manufacturers don't recommend putting straight concentrated ethylene glycol into your engine.

No, or very little pressure build up: I like that. Pressure takes it's toll on things. That said, I don't work in chemical engineering, or anything fancy. (Mostly I'm at home, pick up my son from school, send him to school....) So I think the water coolant mixture does not "act" like water, or ethylene glycol, alone and separate. It acts like a mixture, or azeotrope, again, I think! So there has been question, what do you add as coolant gets low? Some say just add water, some say add coolant, I personally mix water and coolant and then add that....

H20 is 1 O, 2 H. It is a HIGHLY oxygenated molecule. Oxygen is big, Hydrogen is small. When anything comes into contact with water, it is most likely going to bump into the Oxygen first, Oxygen has 4 reactive electrons, and 2 shared, one with each H (Group 6 element). No question it is reactive. Oxidize and Reduce are the two reactions I can (barely remember now). Oxidize is adding Oxygen, or removing electrons. (I wonder if I still remember it right...) Reduce is removing Oxygen, or adding electrons. Must I mention Fe (iron) plus Oxygen make rust. They named a whole class of reactions after Oxygen, "oxidize", so must be important!!!

One can mix 70% coolant and 30% water, and that has been the common limitation with ethylene glycol based coolants, but again, heat transfer may not be so good. I started adding my car work life with 60% 40%, then went to 55% 45%, and now as carefully as possible I use 50% 50% coolant to water (by volume) ratio, if that helps any. In the smart I saw condensation in the reservoir, asked about it here thinking the coolant had too much water, but was told normal. I only had to add some once. (I'm afraid I forgot what I mixed, but I think I went 55% 45% because I was still nervous about the condensation.)

Evans backs their stuff with a 2 year warranty. I'll stick with Old World Industries Peak Global "Lifetime" for now, ($1000), whenever I need to completely change the coolant that is. (I'm not brave enough to mix formulations, even though they say it is okay to do so. But if faced with changing it completely, that's what I went with. Don't forget Walgreens. I couldn't find it anywhere else a few/couple of years ago! I guess the reason auto parts stores don't stock it is because they want to keep selling us coolant! I've reread the warranty terms on the Global Lifetime and it seems (somewhat) clearer that once completely changed over then you are good to just top off the rest of your life.)

I did not have my smart long enough to change the coolant I believe, so please YMMV....
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Walmart carries a really cheap tester. It is basically a pipet with a little black tube to suction it up. There are little balls that will float to indicate protection level. (I don’t use it for that, so I guess that’s why I forgot). I use it to suck out fluid, from excess/dirty brake fluid to excess coolant, when I check after having service. I notice sometimes the balls will stick to the glass walls so I’m also not sure how reliable it is. (Maybe I damaged it with power steering or brake fluid contact)? Neither do I understand the voltage theory of old coolant at the moment. (Where does the voltage come from)? (Ah, I give up finding the shrugs emoticon)...
I did the volt meter test that Joe shows on utube and got a reading of 39 and according to him that says I need to replace it
I forsee a trip to Walgreens is in your near future......
I was looking back through the thread to find the multimeter test, but could no longer find it, so I went to YouTube to search. I found this one from someone I’ve seen before, who I liked, and seems to have the most views:

Very detailed, and even used an Aquarium pH test strip for the coolant. Don’t have any of the test strips. Is the pH range he mentions accurate?....
I feel bad that he paid someone and they put orange coolant even though there is a nice sticker saying to use green, (in color)!

That stuff looked bad from the first test. I guess he wanted to show what a bad test in every single test looks like, (which I find very helpful). But I pity his truck!!!
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