I was wondering myself if that under the seat sub could be replaced while utilizing the same box but having a stronger output. I don't think so, but I could be wrong.
I have never removed the under seat sub before. I know there are underdash sub box's you can buy, but are kinda expensive. I dont have a clue what size or brand it is.
There's two under the dash types, a JL Audio type that smartmadness and crutchfield sells (can't find it on their site at the moment) and also a nice value option from 4smartcar.com you can find here: Smart Car Under Dash 8" Subwoofer Bass Solution
I've also heard these in a smart, and was impressed enough that I'm thinking of buying a set myself: Kenwood KSC-SW10 Compact powered subwoofer at Crutchfield.com They can fit right behind the seats, so they're hidden enough to not warrant theft too!
EDIT: the kenwoods I posted also have built in amplifiers and remote adjustment knobs. You can find em for cheaper on the net, but beware of knockoffs!
I wouldn't spend any time on the under the seat sub - it's not worth it. Our door speakers are bigger than the "sub" driver in that enclosure. Instead, the under-the-dash option is the way to go and will put out a LOT more sound than something that fits under a seat. Personally, $300 for a box and driver is WAY too high, I'll be making my own box one of these days. The amp will then go under the passenger seat.
I have the undeseat sub already (came that way) and was wondering the same thing. Of course, the wiring is perfect to re-route to a dedicated powered sub enclosure from Kenwood (which I know fits and sounds okay) but I dont want to spend that much (Its $250).
The box is already there, already powered (that barren circuit board is the amp I think) but the speaker is weaker than tea. I'm pulling my seats again soon to add insulation ... I might remove it and see how much I can increase the size of the opening. If there's enough clearance above the box to exterior-mount a speaker, that would add maybe 1/4" to the total speaker depth that would fit. A 6" or 5x7" 3.5" deep woofer would be a huge improvement over the 5" wiffle that's in there now.
I wound up getting the kenwoods I referenced in my earlier post. I have two sets, one behind each seat, instead of under them. The sound is not competition quality, but it thumps louder than anything I've heard on the street at 1/4 power. There are some frequency ranges they simply can't reproduce however, without thumping too hard. They have a sick amount of "punch" but extend too far without a solid cab acting as the bandpass in the cabrio (softtop) model I have. The sound difference with the top up and top down is incredible even though it's a ragtop. I'm willing to be that these kenwoods would sound amazing in a solid top model. I may add the under the dash option, if I get that for my Christmas present from the wife. Adjust the ranges so the front handles the resonant base, and let the kenwoods keep on thumping.
I tinkered with the sub box and came to the conclusion that any decent shallow-mount sub would require the box to be cut/modified beyond my ability, so I'm going the route of a powered sub box (the kenwood KSC-SW10's look good for the money). Looking at the dimensions, it should *almost* fit under the seat if you remove the current under-seat box. Evilution states there is 300mm x 350mm x 80mm (shortest point) or 120mm (highest point) under the seat. The KSC-SW10 is 225mm x 368mm x 90mm but it's bevelled at the edges. It might fit under there (although it would stick out a bit in the front). 18mm length and 10mm height isn't much
I just put in the kenwood powered sub - fits perfectly behind the drivers seat - never thought of having two of them.. good idea. I tried to get it under the passenger's seat, and I couldn't do it. It looks like it should fit, but just doesn't. It sounds great once you get it adjusted to where you like it.
Mounts on the trailer behind the open tailgate. Audio drop from the old woofer to the input of the 1.2 KW bass amp is pins 5 and 6 of the trailer light plug. Power is from a Honda EU3000i mounted behind the speaker in a Hayes custom cooled enclosure with Hayes keyless push button start marked BASS BOOST: honda eu3000is generator 3000 watt super quiet electric start inverter equipped Honda generators
The 12A charger output recharges the Smart battery on BASS BOOST via pins 7 and 8 connections in the trailer plug. You can run it at the beach for 12 hours without refueling, wide open...if nobody calls the cops.
Mine IS bigger than YOURS.
Even the pimps in the Escalades can hear it....4 traffic lights up!
Mounts on the trailer behind the open tailgate. Audio drop from the old woofer to the input of the 1.2 KW bass amp is pins 5 and 6 of the trailer light plug. Power is from a Honda EU3000i mounted behind the speaker in a Hayes custom cooled enclosure with Hayes keyless push button start marked BASS BOOST: honda eu3000is generator 3000 watt super quiet electric start inverter equipped Honda generators
The 12A charger output recharges the Smart battery on BASS BOOST via pins 7 and 8 connections in the trailer plug. You can run it at the beach for 12 hours without refueling, wide open...if nobody calls the cops.
Mine IS bigger than YOURS.
Even the pimps in the Escalades can hear it....4 traffic lights up!
I wouldn't spend any time on the under the seat sub - it's not worth it. Our door speakers are bigger than the "sub" driver in that enclosure. Instead, the under-the-dash option is the way to go and will put out a LOT more sound than something that fits under a seat. Personally, $300 for a box and driver is WAY too high, I'll be making my own box one of these days. The amp will then go under the passenger seat.
I know this is an old post, but if I can manage to get back to town, you'd be welcome to come out to the shop and build something. I am the Wood-master (I'll show you the walnut-wrapped inlaid burl satellite/subwoofer combo I did (for the house -- wouldn't fit in the smart). rigging up something won't be too hard.
I think Larry was being a little tongue-in-cheek on that one. But do notice the steep filter at 30 HZ -- these are made for bands, not high-fidelity sound reproduction.
I still think that if you want REALLY good bass in a smart you likely have to give up most of the storage area for a good-sized box. After that, it's easy and not-so-expensive.
I wouldn't spend any time on the under the seat sub - it's not worth it. Our door speakers are bigger than the "sub" driver in that enclosure. Instead, the under-the-dash option is the way to go and will put out a LOT more sound than something that fits under a seat. Personally, $300 for a box and driver is WAY too high, I'll be making my own box one of these days. The amp will then go under the passenger seat.
I put a Boss powered sub woofer under the passenger seat. Works and fits great. Got it on Ebay slightly used for $75. Of course I am old, so I don't need it to rattle the dashboard of the car next to me at the light.
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I just got a 2018 fortwo electric coupe. Love it.
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Chopper · updated 
