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I don't know what the exact # for the bulb is off the top of the head, but if they're hyper flashing it could be because you bought LED ones instead of regular, and you need some sort of resister to use them, or your back signal is out. I bought some LED ones from smartmadness for $45 and they hyperflashed when I installed it. Unfortunately too long went by and I missed the deadline to return.

Here in the USA I bought them from autozone for $7. I wanna say they're like 2157a or something.
 

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Buy CANBUS LED bulbs. These LEDs have built-in resistors to stop hyperflashing. Watch out for the super cheap ones, however, as they won't do the job or are straight up fake.
 
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The turn signal circuits are current “detecting.” If a an incandescent bulb blows out, the corresponding drop in current draw is what triggers the hyper-flash you are seeing. LED bulbs draw far less current and are “seen” as a blown bulb. The traditional fix is to install a high-current resistor in parallel across the electrical connections to the LED bulb. The resistor draws current similar to the incandescent bulb and tricks the system into not hyperflashing the LED. There are two drawbacks : the added resistor prevents any efficiency gains that he LEDs would have introduced and, once installed, your turn signal system will never go into hyperflash, even if the LED bulbs fail. This means you will need to be extra-vigilant in checking your LED bulbs to make sure they are working. I check all of my LED bulbs monthly.

Alternatively, there are replacement turn signal relays that don’t need the resistor in parallel with the LED and still flash at the normal, slower rate. I’ve been interested in these, but time and lack of grey matter have prevented me from digging any deeper applying this technology to my Smart.
 

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Or buy CANBUS LEDs..
No need to change relays or wire in resistors. :)
Miss M,

I’ve tried literally dozens of LED bulbs in my 451 and have yet to find a “Canbus” LED that did not cause hyperflash. Personally, I think most of the advertising claims for Cabnbus LEDs are inflated, or LEDs they have interstates load resistors. I would love to hear if you have found some that don’t cause hyperflash.
 

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I have. Back in 2014 I went on a mission to fully convert my 2012 to LED. I went through many sets of fake CANBUS LEDs from eBay before finally landing on a set that work as advertised. The ones I have use a built-in resistor on what appears to be a PCB board to bring the load up to what a halogen bulb would pull.

I went LED for the tech and longevity. I haven't needed to change a bulb for seven years and still don't need to. :D

The tech's gotten much better since 2014. What I'd do is check out what BMW people use in their cars. Real CANBUS LEDs exist, but there are so so so many fakes out there.

Alternatively, you can buy a short wiring harness with an in-line resistor. This also protects the car's original wiring and allows you to use basically any LED you want.

I need to convert my 2016 to full LED, so maybe I'll do it again and report back what works. :)
 

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What year smart car, do you own? For one thing LED lights weren’t designed for a smart car. They can play havoc on the cars computers. You found that out. Give this company a call. They offer a wide range of LED solutions, on lots of band vehicles. I’ve used their LED lighting on our smart car, my Abarth, Kia Soul, Jeep Renegade, and the Honda Fit.

The only issue, I have with LED Conversion, the price over incandescent lighting. Is it really worth it. Head lamps, I would say yes.


 
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