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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just bought a 2008 smart for two and I’m having issues. Will have the 3 bars and check engine light and will not start. Does not know what gear it is in. Codes are as follows p2802, p0805, p1800, and p1801. Should I replace the shift position sensor or clean it. Should I be looking at the electrical connectors. The last time I got the car to work again I turned on the key pressed the break and while it was making its clicking noise I tapped on the clutch position sensor. Clicking stopped. And it’s working but still throwing codes. The part is over $500 on rock auto. Okay and go oh and thank you in advance
 

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First off, you might see people advising you to put lithium grease in the shift motors, don't do it; all that does is contaminate your transmission fluid.

The P2802 could be caused by other malfunctioing equipment causing problems on the canbus, could be a real fault too.
The P1800 and P1801 errors are related to a failed teach-in
The P0805 I believe is a fault in the clutch actuator.

Given these I would start by checking the clutch actuator. If you hear it engaging and working it might need some adjustment.

It could also be an issue with your shift-motors. I had a problem with my shift-motors and documented it here: Shift motor teardown (and maybe someday, rebuild)

I would start with the easy things and work your way up the list by clearing all the codes, then checking the clutch actuator. Mark where it is currently and try to adjust it, as I recall it's supposed to be pre-loaded with 15lbs of force - I went by feel. Do double check my numbers, I'm not positive. If you don't notice any change, put it back where it was originally by lining up the marks you made before you loosened it. The plug connector on my clutch actuator broke when I touched it, so I highly recommend you get a picture of the plug and the orientation of the wires so that if yours falls apart too you know which is the right way to plug it in. Mine is now zip-tied in place.

Evilution has a couple of good articles on this and is generally worth the small fee for a subscription, but if that's not an option I'm sure someone would be willing to crawl under the car and take a few pictures for reference and show you where the bolts are.

There are instructions about disassembly around, but I don't recommend doing so. I opened mine up to check for broken or bound parts, but realize there's a spring loaded lever in there that is under a good bit of compression and if you aren't careful you can seriously injure yourself. So poke about only after studying it's inner workings (videos, etc) and some introspection on risks. It's a sealed unit and should either work or not, but it can require mounting adjustment.

The P1800 and P1801 errors suggest to me there might be an issue with the shift motors. They're not terribly hard to get to, but it will take some effort to get the airbox assembly off. I wouldn't mess with them though unless errors for the shift motors or teach-in keep coming up because it isn't easy getting to them. Not trying to make it sound hard, it's more a challenge to patience and creative thinking.

But first things first, I would clear all the codes and check the adjustment of the clutch actuator.

I haven't had any issues with the shifter, so I can't help with direct knowledge there. As always, it pays to check plugs and wiring for problems, a mouse can do a lot of damage.
Edit: Also, what scanner are you using? (my own curiosity)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First off, you might see people advising you to put lithium grease in the shift motors, don't do it; all that does is contaminate your transmission fluid.

The P2802 could be caused by other malfunctioing equipment causing problems on the canbus, could be a real fault too.
The P1800 and P1801 errors are related to a failed teach-in
The P0805 I believe is a fault in the clutch actuator.

Given these I would start by checking the clutch actuator. If you hear it engaging and working it might need some adjustment.

It could also be an issue with your shift-motors. I had a problem with my shift-motors and documented it here: Shift motor teardown (and maybe someday, rebuild)

I would start with the easy things and work your way up the list by clearing all the codes, then checking the clutch actuator. Mark where it is currently and try to adjust it, as I recall it's supposed to be pre-loaded with 15lbs of force - I went by feel. Do double check my numbers, I'm not positive. If you don't notice any change, put it back where it was originally by lining up the marks you made before you loosened it. The plug connector on my clutch actuator broke when I touched it, so I highly recommend you get a picture of the plug and the orientation of the wires so that if yours falls apart too you know which is the right way to plug it in. Mine is now zip-tied in place.

Evilution has a couple of good articles on this and is generally worth the small fee for a subscription, but if that's not an option I'm sure someone would be willing to crawl under the car and take a few pictures for reference and show you where the bolts are.

There are instructions about disassembly around, but I don't recommend doing so. I opened mine up to check for broken or bound parts, but realize there's a spring loaded lever in there that is under a good bit of compression and if you aren't careful you can seriously injure yourself. So poke about only after studying it's inner workings (videos, etc) and some introspection on risks. It's a sealed unit and should either work or not, but it can require mounting adjustment.

The P1800 and P1801 errors suggest to me there might be an issue with the shift motors. They're not terribly hard to get to, but it will take some effort to get the airbox assembly off. I wouldn't mess with them though unless errors for the shift motors or teach-in keep coming up because it isn't easy getting to them. Not trying to make it sound hard, it's more a challenge to patience and creative thinking.

But first things first, I would clear all the codes and check the adjustment of the clutch actuator.

I haven't had any issues with the shifter, so I can't help with direct knowledge there. As always, it pays to check plugs and wiring for problems, a mouse can do a lot of damage.
Edit: Also, what scanner are you using? (my own curiosity)
For a scanner I bought a ELM 327 mini interface that connects with Bluetooth to my phone. The recommend program was “Torque” thank you for the info I will check the position clear codes and do a proper teach. See where that gets me. As for a shift motor or parts fromthe dealer the only source to buy?
and thank you
 

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For a scanner I bought a ELM 327 mini interface that connects with Bluetooth to my phone. The recommend program was “Torque” thank you for the info I will check the position clear codes and do a proper teach. See where that gets me. As for a shift motor or parts fromthe dealer the only source to buy?
and thank you
I sourced my replacement from SmartMadness, it was a used part (pull-off). Their price was well under the dealer or any listing I had seen on eBay, I was very happy with the price, the condition of the part, and the shipping.
I hope an adjustment gets you going again. If not, hopefully it will offer more codes to help dial in where the problem is likely to be. It can be frustrating in that sometimes you'll get codes from subsystems that aren't really faulty, they're just being affected by all the chaos on the bus. I got a bunch of unrelated codes which cleared up when I fixed the actual problem.
 

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Hey everyone !
Just wanted to update this thread with some possibly useful information.

I bought a 2013 Pure from auction with 50k miles on it.
After driving a few miles, I got flashing D while driving and some gears were not active.
After parking, it displayed 3 horizontal "bars of death" and displayed N instead of R and D.
Somehow I could move the shifter (maybe someone tried to fix it before?).
Also 2 wrenches were flashing and I couldn't start the car.

Thanks to this forum I managed to start it by doing the transmission learning, shifting gears while pressing the brake.

Checked the codes with my cheap Amazon scanner.
P2802 and P0949.

Reset the codes but problem didn't go away.
2 wrenches were appearing with each restart and I had to do transmission learning process with every start, otherwise the car wouldn't shift higher than 2 gear.
Then, esp light came and check engine.

I watched many videos about clutch actuator but came across some video in Spanish, which had the most detailed , thorough disassembly and cleaning.


I tried that and after removing the electric cylinder part, noticed that the copper wire coils were all black. Cleaned it with electrical parts/maf sensor cleaner, greased the gears and installed under my Smart hamster.
Reset codes and started. Did transmission learning.
I drove it less than a mile but everything works normal. Check engine light didn't come back.
I scanned again and the system is not fully "ready" yet (egr).
So far I have high hopes because the 3 bars and check engine didn't light up yet.
Fingers crossed and I'll update after driving longer.

Cheers
 

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Update after clutch actuator cleaning/regreasing :

P2802 and P0949 came back today and check engine light is on + 2 wrenches flashing.
Car goes into limp mode after I start driving and can't go in reverse.
Then, I stop and turn off the engine to do the transmission learning.
3 bars of death appear
I do transmission learning by shifting gears with engine off. I can hear clutch actuator working when switching to reverse and shifting up down in manual mode. Have to do it twice.
3 bars of death disappear .
I can start and drive normal at first but then some gears don't work , especially after hitting bumps/ making sharp turns. I can feel the car hesitating by trying to shift into another gear unsuccessfully.
This morning after driving 2 miles, only the 4th gear was working.
Then, after stopping and shifting to P , no reverse again, need to do transmission learning, then all gears work for some time.

Do you think it's a clutch issue or transmission?
Or those codes are only linked to clutch actuator?
 

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halo
i have the same problem on my smart 451 so i would like to know if you have found the problem

i have on my own changed the cables from the actuator, gear selector motor and i have the same problem again
 

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I think the issue is solved.
After a reset with a more sophisticated scanner I still had intermittent cel and 3 bars of death after hitting bumps on the road.
Then I replaced the actuator with one from Amazon and so far so good.
I think the old actuator wires are probably corroded. I'll try to open it up again and see if it's possible to repair.
So in my case, the fix for P2802 and P0949 is a combination of new clutch actuator and a reset with a proper scanner.
No need for Mercedes Star diagnostics.
 

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halo
i have the same problem on my smart 451 so i would like to know if you have found the problem

i have on my own changed the cables from the actuator, gear selector motor and i have the same problem again
Did you replace the clutch actuator? Did you ask your mechanic to reset with a good scanner?
 
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