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Discussion Starter #1
Just bought a 2008 smart for two and I’m having issues. Will have the 3 bars and check engine light and will not start. Does not know what gear it is in. Codes are as follows p2802, p0805, p1800, and p1801. Should I replace the shift position sensor or clean it. Should I be looking at the electrical connectors. The last time I got the car to work again I turned on the key pressed the break and while it was making its clicking noise I tapped on the clutch position sensor. Clicking stopped. And it’s working but still throwing codes. The part is over $500 on rock auto. Okay and go oh and thank you in advance
 

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First off, you might see people advising you to put lithium grease in the shift motors, don't do it; all that does is contaminate your transmission fluid.

The P2802 could be caused by other malfunctioing equipment causing problems on the canbus, could be a real fault too.
The P1800 and P1801 errors are related to a failed teach-in
The P0805 I believe is a fault in the clutch actuator.

Given these I would start by checking the clutch actuator. If you hear it engaging and working it might need some adjustment.

It could also be an issue with your shift-motors. I had a problem with my shift-motors and documented it here: Shift motor teardown (and maybe someday, rebuild)

I would start with the easy things and work your way up the list by clearing all the codes, then checking the clutch actuator. Mark where it is currently and try to adjust it, as I recall it's supposed to be pre-loaded with 15lbs of force - I went by feel. Do double check my numbers, I'm not positive. If you don't notice any change, put it back where it was originally by lining up the marks you made before you loosened it. The plug connector on my clutch actuator broke when I touched it, so I highly recommend you get a picture of the plug and the orientation of the wires so that if yours falls apart too you know which is the right way to plug it in. Mine is now zip-tied in place.

Evilution has a couple of good articles on this and is generally worth the small fee for a subscription, but if that's not an option I'm sure someone would be willing to crawl under the car and take a few pictures for reference and show you where the bolts are.

There are instructions about disassembly around, but I don't recommend doing so. I opened mine up to check for broken or bound parts, but realize there's a spring loaded lever in there that is under a good bit of compression and if you aren't careful you can seriously injure yourself. So poke about only after studying it's inner workings (videos, etc) and some introspection on risks. It's a sealed unit and should either work or not, but it can require mounting adjustment.

The P1800 and P1801 errors suggest to me there might be an issue with the shift motors. They're not terribly hard to get to, but it will take some effort to get the airbox assembly off. I wouldn't mess with them though unless errors for the shift motors or teach-in keep coming up because it isn't easy getting to them. Not trying to make it sound hard, it's more a challenge to patience and creative thinking.

But first things first, I would clear all the codes and check the adjustment of the clutch actuator.

I haven't had any issues with the shifter, so I can't help with direct knowledge there. As always, it pays to check plugs and wiring for problems, a mouse can do a lot of damage.
Edit: Also, what scanner are you using? (my own curiosity)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
First off, you might see people advising you to put lithium grease in the shift motors, don't do it; all that does is contaminate your transmission fluid.

The P2802 could be caused by other malfunctioing equipment causing problems on the canbus, could be a real fault too.
The P1800 and P1801 errors are related to a failed teach-in
The P0805 I believe is a fault in the clutch actuator.

Given these I would start by checking the clutch actuator. If you hear it engaging and working it might need some adjustment.

It could also be an issue with your shift-motors. I had a problem with my shift-motors and documented it here: Shift motor teardown (and maybe someday, rebuild)

I would start with the easy things and work your way up the list by clearing all the codes, then checking the clutch actuator. Mark where it is currently and try to adjust it, as I recall it's supposed to be pre-loaded with 15lbs of force - I went by feel. Do double check my numbers, I'm not positive. If you don't notice any change, put it back where it was originally by lining up the marks you made before you loosened it. The plug connector on my clutch actuator broke when I touched it, so I highly recommend you get a picture of the plug and the orientation of the wires so that if yours falls apart too you know which is the right way to plug it in. Mine is now zip-tied in place.

Evilution has a couple of good articles on this and is generally worth the small fee for a subscription, but if that's not an option I'm sure someone would be willing to crawl under the car and take a few pictures for reference and show you where the bolts are.

There are instructions about disassembly around, but I don't recommend doing so. I opened mine up to check for broken or bound parts, but realize there's a spring loaded lever in there that is under a good bit of compression and if you aren't careful you can seriously injure yourself. So poke about only after studying it's inner workings (videos, etc) and some introspection on risks. It's a sealed unit and should either work or not, but it can require mounting adjustment.

The P1800 and P1801 errors suggest to me there might be an issue with the shift motors. They're not terribly hard to get to, but it will take some effort to get the airbox assembly off. I wouldn't mess with them though unless errors for the shift motors or teach-in keep coming up because it isn't easy getting to them. Not trying to make it sound hard, it's more a challenge to patience and creative thinking.

But first things first, I would clear all the codes and check the adjustment of the clutch actuator.

I haven't had any issues with the shifter, so I can't help with direct knowledge there. As always, it pays to check plugs and wiring for problems, a mouse can do a lot of damage.
Edit: Also, what scanner are you using? (my own curiosity)
For a scanner I bought a ELM 327 mini interface that connects with Bluetooth to my phone. The recommend program was “Torque” thank you for the info I will check the position clear codes and do a proper teach. See where that gets me. As for a shift motor or parts fromthe dealer the only source to buy?
and thank you
 

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For a scanner I bought a ELM 327 mini interface that connects with Bluetooth to my phone. The recommend program was “Torque” thank you for the info I will check the position clear codes and do a proper teach. See where that gets me. As for a shift motor or parts fromthe dealer the only source to buy?
and thank you
I sourced my replacement from SmartMadness, it was a used part (pull-off). Their price was well under the dealer or any listing I had seen on eBay, I was very happy with the price, the condition of the part, and the shipping.
I hope an adjustment gets you going again. If not, hopefully it will offer more codes to help dial in where the problem is likely to be. It can be frustrating in that sometimes you'll get codes from subsystems that aren't really faulty, they're just being affected by all the chaos on the bus. I got a bunch of unrelated codes which cleared up when I fixed the actual problem.
 
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