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Discussion Starter #1
Tuesday my smart finally goes into the shop to get the head gasket replaced. Hopefully that is the only problem I will find...

Just to double check, I have to do the following,

- capture and drain the A/C refrigerant
- drain the coolant
- drain the brakes
- drop the motor/transaxle

Is there anything else I should consider replacing while the motor is down? I just replaced the alternator and tensioner plus belts but a belt failed and that caused the overheating of the motor. Hopefully I won't find something worse such as a cracked block or warped head.
 

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I think you can drop the engine and not drain the AC if you remove the AC compressor and tie it out of the way.Ive seen you tube videos where the guy loosen the clamp that holds the brake lines to the body and rolled the engine out and toward the drivers side enough to get to the engine without draining the brake fluid.
don't forget the e-brake cable and the wiring harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think you can drop the engine and not drain the AC if you remove the AC compressor and tie it out of the way.Ive seen you tube videos where the guy loosen the clamp that holds the brake lines to the body and rolled the engine out and toward the drivers side enough to get to the engine without draining the brake fluid.
don't forget the e-brake cable and the wiring harness.
Thanks! That would be a huge help!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yup thanks again! We did drop the cradle and were able to hang the AC compressor without having to disconnect everything!

Ok so here are some shots, the car is a 2010 Brabus with 100,000 km. Has had some winter driving but not much. Still quite a bit of rust in certain areas including the shift motor which was surprising.





Quite a bit of gunk in the cylinders from the coolant.





The head was sent out to be machined to play it safe, when Chris took the motor apart he noticed that the two centre head bolts were not as tight as the rest and this might have also added to the problem though basically I overheated the motor causing the problem. So what I take away from this is to run a coolant temp gauge and monitor it religiously. Otherwise to get the head gasket the subframe comes out and then the motor gets stripped. This is not a simple job, took 1/2 a day for the take apart and at least that much for the rebuild.

Also while it is out I am replacing the thermostat since it could have been damaged in the overheat, it btw is located on the front of the motor in a spot that may not be easily accessible when everything is back in place. Er let me rephrase this, there is NOTHING that is easy to get at with the motor in place...... er well maybe the plugs and shift motor.... Also replacing the water pump because it too would be a PITA to do once everything is back in.

Oh and to get at the head off all this has to come off as well....



Hopefully by next week she will be back together and running.
 

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Oh and to get at the head off all this has to come off as well....



Hopefully by next week she will be back together and running.
Glad it's working out for you.Hope the head's not cracked.
Now would be a good time to shim the valves,i think thats the only way to adjust them.
Where are you getting your parts?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Glad it's working out for you.Hope the head's not cracked.
Now would be a good time to shim the valves,i think thats the only way to adjust them.
Where are you getting your parts?
Got lucky no cracks. We've got the head back on and waiting on a thermostat and water pump. Some parts I can source from Napa here in Markham but some parts such as gaskets had to come from Mercedes. I've also picked up brake parts from germanparts.ca which is a store here in Toronto that does mail order though not a lot of smart parts. But they carry Brembo rotors and pads for a decent price, er well decent compared to MB. Coolant had to come from Mercedes as well come to think of it.

The belt that failed and had been freshly installed was aftermarket and we are not 100% sure as to why. So I went back to Mercedes belts because, well doing this again is not something I want to do to save $15, same went for the water pump and whatever parts we can think of that are very tough or impossible to get at unless the motor has been dropped.

Top end wasn't noisy, and important point about the valves, those 'buckets' are all different values so Chris made a road map of each number/location as they were pulled and threatened everyone with instant death if someone started to re-arrange the parts on that trolly.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok starting the process of putting the motor back in the car. Chris did figure out what failed, it was a locating pin on the new belt tensioner that broke off and allowed the tensioner to release the belt. Oddly the old tensioner was pretty well seized.

The starter looks pretty rusty but for now we are keeping it.



The new water pump snakes up to the left and is a PITA and is something I don't think you can get with the motor in place. Well maybe if you have small hands and can contort yourself into position but somewhat easier to get when the motor is out.



The subframe ready to be installed. Keeping fingers crossed that it will fire up.... replaced plugs that were soaked with coolant as well and putting on new drums as the originals were pretty rusty.

 

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Discussion Starter #11
Put the interior back in yesterday and got the car back. But one weird thing is when we start the car when it is warm it acts as if the fuel pump is not flowing enough gas to fire up the motor. If I push on the gas pedal slightly it starts fine, ok have I forgotten another of the hidden quirks of the smart or should I be checking fuel pressure and fuel filter.

Oh and ordering in a few of the plastic clips that detonated when we took it apart.
 

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Glad to hear you're back up and running.Sorry,i don't have any ideas on the hard starting,hope someone else knows and speaks up.Sounds like something we should all be aware of and the (hopefully cheap) fix for.
I broke a few plastic clips when pulling the rocker panels off what i did to get the panels back on was just turn the clips over backwards,had to play around with them a little bit to get them to stick out just far enough but i didn't want to wait on new clips. Couldn't find them local.The rocker panels have stayed on at 80 plus MPH so i think i'll be OK:)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks! It was quite the adventure, because my friends shop was giving me a deal on labour they worked on it when they had spare time so it took a while.

I picked up one of those cheap ELM 327 readers to use with a phone or tablet but I think this falls into the category of 'you get what you pay for' as I can get it to pair with iPhones, iPads and Android phones but in each case get the no data error which seems common with these things.

Since I don't really want to drop the motor again, I'm just going to spend the money on a ScangaugeE which will give me the temp readings I want as opposed to the trouble light that only comes on to tell me I fried my motor....

Re the starting issue, am still working through this, could just be a matter of stale gas though the more I think about it the more I recall that you don't crank the key to start immediately like on most every other car on the planet but wait a sec which seems to work better.

Re clips, I did some searching on eBay for cheaper clips and it turns out by the time I pay shipping and taxes to Canada it is cheaper to just get the pieces at the dealer! Go figure.
 

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Thanks! It was quite the adventure, because my friends shop was giving me a deal on labour they worked on it when they had spare time so it took a while.

I picked up one of those cheap ELM 327 readers to use with a phone or tablet but I think this falls into the category of 'you get what you pay for' as I can get it to pair with iPhones, iPads and Android phones but in each case get the no data error which seems common with these things.

Since I don't really want to drop the motor again, I'm just going to spend the money on a ScangaugeE which will give me the temp readings I want as opposed to the trouble light that only comes on to tell me I fried my motor....

Re the starting issue, am still working through this, could just be a matter of stale gas though the more I think about it the more I recall that you don't crank the key to start immediately like on most every other car on the planet but wait a sec which seems to work better.

Re clips, I did some searching on eBay for cheaper clips and it turns out by the time I pay shipping and taxes to Canada it is cheaper to just get the pieces at the dealer! Go figure.
I hear you not wanting to drop the motor again,me too.
I'm running torque on an lg stylo2 with android 7.0 that i got from my son when he up graded his phone. I've tried others that it wont run on. I think it's just the luck of the draw.
 
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