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Discussion Starter #1
We just brought our 2010 Smart Coupe home yesterday. One of the issues with it is that the drivers side headlight doesn't work. Unfortunately it's not going to be a quick fix, somebody had jerry-rigged the socket with a replacement and the wires were scorched. I fixed that mess but there's still a short somewhere because the fuse blows the instant the headlights are turned on.

So.... it'd be great if someone could point me to a wiring diagram, as well as instructions on how to remove the headlight assembly (I'm guessing that's going to have to come out to gain access to the wires).

Thanks
 

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Probably would be easier to remove the front end to get to all the wiring and remove the headlight unit. Not as bad as it sounds, about a dozen bolts (screws) and a few clips, antenna and it comes off in one piece. I did this to add the horns and it makes working on it so much easier, especially if you are checking burnt wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Any chance somebody added HID lights? :)
Nope.... just someone who apparently had a problem and chose to attempt a fix with some red-neck engineering.

I found a video where someone was demonstrating how to install HID lights, they started disassembly with removal of the side skirts. It looked like they knew what they were doing, but do I really need to take the side skirts off to remove the front end? And if so are there any other supplies I'll need other than new side skirt clip sets?

thanks
 

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We just brought our 2010 Smart Coupe home yesterday. One of the issues with it is that the drivers side headlight doesn't work. Unfortunately it's not going to be a quick fix, somebody had jerry-rigged the socket with a replacement and the wires were scorched. I fixed that mess but there's still a short somewhere because the fuse blows the instant the headlights are turned on.

So.... it'd be great if someone could point me to a wiring diagram, as well as instructions on how to remove the headlight assembly (I'm guessing that's going to have to come out to gain access to the wires).

Thanks
Left headlight wiring comes directly from the SAM, or fuse/relay panel and should be fuses #22 for low beam and #26 for high beam, both 7-1/2 amp brown fuses.

The wiring should be gray/yellow for low beam, white/red for high beam and brown for ground. Verify the colors because sometimes the wiring diagram shows colors used on European vehicles and they are not always the same. They apparently change things at random to keep up from getting too cocky.

The first thing I would do is to check whether the fuse blows with the bulb disconnected from the wiring. Do not overlook the possibility that the replacement socket is wired incorrectly. Be sure the bulb itself does not have a broken filament shorted internally.

To access the headlight one can remove all the fasteners for the front bodywork except the lowest bolts behind the side skirts. Pull the rear of the front fenders away from the body and tilt the whole front end down. That gives room to access the headlight assemblies if necessary.

If one is to work on one's own car a subscription to ALLDATAdiy.com is a good investment. They have the wiring diagrams for smart as well as repair information.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK, got the wiring cleaned up. The driver's side is working, but appears dimmer than the passenger side. However, to me it looks like the bulb is just sitting in the assembly at a slightly different position than on the other side. To test that theory I took both bulbs out of the headlamp assembly, put the connectors on, and turned the lights on. Both bulbs appeared to be equally bright, so it appears that all the electrical issues are solved.

So, my next question.... is the driver's side low beam headlamp supposed to be aimed lower than the passenger side? If not what could cause this? (I was very careful to turn the bulb until it slid all the way into the holder, so I don't think it's an installation problem).

thanks
 

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Groundloop:

Having replaced (too) many headlight bulbs; I find that the only sure way I have of making sure the bulb is positioned in the socket correctly is to use a mirror. The amount of force needed to seat the holding clip is an approximate gauge - if it was fairly easy, the bulb might be in the right position. If your fingers hurt, the bulb probably is not correctly seated.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm fairly certain I've got the bulb in correctly as I can feel it move into place as I rotate it plus the clip goes on without too much effort.. I'm now thinking that everything is ok because after dark I could see a distinct band of light projected onto my garage which I was able to move up or down with the adjuster. I'll have to take the car out tonight to verify that the light is working properly.

I was wondering why a car that's less than 4 years old would have burnt wires in the first place. I'm starting to believe there may have been some sort of damage in that area, as now I've found that the windshield washer reservoir leaks. Hmmmm...... Oh well, I bought it for a very good price and it's not the end of the world if I have to fix a few things.
 
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