[dhlairbusb4]

Hey everyone.
I am looking to purchase some new headlights for my 09 451, not because I am passionate about them... its they simply suck!
Adjusting is not easy, as the driver side Hi beam goes into the trees when the low beams are even and correct.
Also the inside of the lens is cruddy.
So, anyone have a good source? Madness, Ebay, Amazing river, and the C list... not helping me too much.
A real nice used set, or new set is what I am looking for, price at the MB parts is over 600... yikes! Surely
someone has dealt with this issue already, and I really would like to know what you did.

On another note...
I am getting ready to remove the gear shift motors for a cleaning, changing the tranny fluid also with MT90. Also installing the Madness
cold air intake hose, and tossing the air box that is in there now. I just hope I do not have to use the Jaws of life to get it out!
I got the rear wheel camber pretty much zeroed out, looks much better... and I think handles better too!

 

[jwight]

Just my .02 but the stock H7 lights are more than enough. It sounds like something is broken in one of your headlights if the "Hi beam goes into the trees." High beams are not adjustable anyway. There's a drivers side assembly on eBay for $125: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-2015-...irated&hash=item4694e6e331:g:K50AAOSw1~Nc0H33

 

[jimvw57]

if the inside of the assembly is 'cruddy' then chances are it is broken and allowing debris in there. The high beam mount is extremely fragile and will break easily. Had that happen to a replacement headlight I got when I hit a deer. There isn't a good way to repair it, just replace it.

Adding any sort of glue will fog the bulb and cause it to overheat. It is possible the bulb was installed upside down and the tab is making it shine straight up (Hi beam) so you could check that out. If the clip that holds it in place is hard to open up, the bulb is in wrong. (been there)

 

[twcom]

Hey everyone.
!
I got the rear wheel camber pretty much zeroed out, looks much better... and I think handles better too!

What did you do to achieve that.

 

[dhlairbusb4]

After much research here, and on evolution, and discovering that the wedges are no longer available... this seemed like the only other way to eliminate the neg-camber.
Removed the wheel and hub, then look behind the plate that the brake is mounted to, there are four bolts, I think they are called E bolts, you can get the sockets at Harbor Freight. Remove the top two, and loosen the bottom two... then insert the washers over the bolt, between the plate and the mounting pad, then tighten everything up. You will also need to remove the large bolt on the end of the transaxle, then you can push it in towards the center of the car to get more room for the E bolts. I used a shallow socket, with a 10" extension.
There are lots of pics, but you have to search to find them. I wish I would have taken pics during the process, but maybe next time.

 

[dhlairbusb4]

OK, got the headlights ordered.....
Now, anybody done a R&R on these before???

 

[jimvw57]

Just a few times.. Usually you can sneak a torx driver behind the fender to get to the screws that hold them in place, 3 of them I believe, #25 torx (or #27 I forget)

 

[dhlairbusb4]

Jim, did you remove the fenders, like evolutions says to do?
If it can be done with out removing, that would make it much easier.

 

[jwight]

https://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/f369/easy-head-light-pod-removal-horn-access-41657/

 

[dhlairbusb4]

Thanks JW...
I am hoping the new lights arrive in the next couple of days.
Yesterday Madness told me that my intake tube was on backorder.... so I am delaying the
shift motor cleaning, tranny fluid change until that arrives.
dave

 

[jimvw57]

Jim, did you remove the fenders, like evolutions says to do?
If it can be done with out removing, that would make it much easier.

you can pry the fenders out of the way enough to get to the screw heads and remove/install them

 

[dhlairbusb4]

Thanks Jim, I will try that first, much better than removing the fenders.
I do see what looks to be a rivet in the upper surface, behind where the adjustment screw is... does that need to be drilled out?

 

[jimvw57]

I believe there are 3 screws holding the housing in place, no rivets. You may have to remove the upper fender screw for more flex of the fender, but I don't think so.

 

[beakyboy]

The high beam projector lamp mounting is broken within the assembly. It can't be fixed. A new after market assembly can be had for around $150. R&R is a ***** because one mounting bolt is behind the fender which must be removed as well as the front facia. I've read that you may be able to remove said bolt without the fender delete - but? Look at youtube.

 

[dhlairbusb4]

THANK YOU...THANKYOU...THANKYOU
Everyone on this site has been great, the advice here is spot on.
The headlight install is done, partially removing the fenders and front was not that hard
and really provided the access to do the job.
Any body need an old set of lights.... ?
Next project... front wheel spacers. Then the transmission motor cleaning and fluid change.
Will post some before and after pics soon.

 

[1983JZR3W]

What size front wheel spacers do you plan to use?

 

[dhlairbusb4]

1" with the original front wheels. Looks to be plenty of room.

 

[dhlairbusb4]

The headlight replacement is complete, also the gear shift motor cleaning, tranny fluid xchange, clutch actuator clean and lube, temp air box install, zero rear wheel camber fix, and finally the front wheel spacers installed. Pics attached! its shifting much better, and seems the handling is improved with the wider front wheel track. I still have to take it out on the highway, but do not anticipate any issues.

 

[jimvw57]

Looking good!!

 

[1983JZR3W]

Your car is looking really good. I have 20mm spacers on the front of mine. Yours are just a bit over 25mm, if they are one inch wide. Do you plan on rear spacers?