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help (451 ABS and transmission fluid)
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Looks like the 1st picture is the "loop" at the door and the 2nd picture is the lock "catch".
Seems to me that the lock catch is in the closed position so the loop cannot be engaged to the catch.
May be you can release the catch so it is in the open position and try again.
Seems to me that the lock catch is in the closed position so the loop cannot be engaged to the catch.
May be you can release the catch so it is in the open position and try again.
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the latch that is supposed to close it is stuck and won’t release
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Is there a set that I should purchase or is there something else I should try?
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yea can’t really find the problem but it doesn’t hurt to check again
You need to remove the outer panel to gain access to the latch.
That way you can test the feeds for power when the button is pressed.
If the button doesn’t send voltage to it then it’s the button but if it does then it’s the latch)
You can also use the key to pop the window latch just in case it’s the button.
That way you can test the feeds for power when the button is pressed.
If the button doesn’t send voltage to it then it’s the button but if it does then it’s the latch)
You can also use the key to pop the window latch just in case it’s the button.
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does the smart car take a special type of battery?does anyone have a recommendation of a cheap but decent smart car battery?
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thank you for your help. I still don’t know the problem with my back latch probably because it is not electronic so I would not be able to find a voltage in the latch area. Is there anything else that could be wrong or is there a set you would recommend buying.
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Is it a difficult task to take on changing the exhaust in a passion 09. I also need to find a new exhaust set if anyone knows any good ones for a decently cheap price.
The rear hatch is electronically controlled. As stated before, the images shows the catch mechanism is tripped as though it were engaged. You will need to unlock the doors and press the catch release button to see if that will release it.
I did not find it difficult, but some conditions can make it more challenging. I removed the rear valance, tailgate, rear panel, and crashbar to get access. On mine the bolts on the flange for the exhaust to cat were severly corroded and had to be cut off, which wasn't easy in such a small space. I would recommend you have some way of cutting off the bolts in case you find yours in a similar state, I used a dremmel rotary tool and it took a very long time. If I do it again, I would lower the subframe to allow better access, but that reqires a set of lowering bolts (which I have).
Edit:
You will need, at minimum, a set of shallow and deep well metric sockets and ratchet.
A set of internal and external e-torx sockets. I don't recall the size off-hand, but as I recall the e-torx on the crossmember was the largest and I believe the torx on the rear panel around the tailgate were the smallest.
If everything goes well it's simple and takes more time getting to the exhaust than it does to replace it, but..... if the exhaust bolts/nuts are rusted as they usually are around here, it can take a lot more time, effort, and creativity to get them off. If you're used to doing brakes, suspension, and other routine maintenance it's not noticeably harder, but if one is not used to working on such I don't know I would try to tackle it alone.
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Does anyone know how to remove the rear panel and crash bar? that is where I am stuck at on putting the new exhaust in
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U-Tube is your friend. You might also consider getting a subscription to Evilution.com and check out FQ101.com. Both are in the UK.
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