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Okay folks, I finally got around to this! Sit back, enjoy, and let it be known that I'm not responsible for any mess ups. 
Firstly, you're probably asking, "why?"
Building your own mount is an inexpensive way to get a stiffer mount, repair a broken mount, and be able to have interchangeable mounts all at the same time.
So, let's start with what you need to obtain.
Tools:
- Ramps or jack stands - I recommend ramps, metal ramps. DO NOT get plastic ramps. Jack stands will also suffice, but I trust the ramps more. You can get some ramps from Harbor Freight for $40.
- Breaker bar - You want a short one. You can get one from Harbor Freight for around $11 or so.
- E18 socket - You can get one of these from Harbor Freight for around $9, but I don't recommend it. The HF E18 sockets aren't deep enough.
- Ratchet - Self explanatory.
- Rotary tool - You'll need an attachment that'll cut through rubber and a coarse sanding attachment.
- Lubricant - Any lube will do. I used some "Lub-Fix" from the local Dollar Tree.
- Hammer - Self Explanatory.
- Flathead screwdriver - See "Hammer".
- Sledgehammer - I recommend a large one, but a small one will work too. About $20 or so at Harbor Freight.
Okay, now for the parts. I'm going to say there are four "levels" of stiffness you're going to consider.
The parts in question are control arm bushings for the 2004 VW Golf/Jetta and 2004 VW Golf R32. All parts can be found on eBay. Sorry, no links as they expire.
This is what they'll look like:
- Level 1: This is best used as a direct replacement for your stock mount. The manufacturer for these things is Moog.
Search eBay for "VW Golf control arm bushing Moog." I got one for $3.
- Level 2: This one is slightly harder rubber than the Moog bushing. Stiffer than stock, but not quite like a BMS mount. Honestly, any brand that's a lot more expensive than Moog uses stiffer rubber. You get what you pay for.
Search eBay for "VW Golf control arm bushing." These things run $8-$20 depending on seller.
- Level 3: Now we're getting into some serious territory. This is a SOLID rubber bushing. Installing this will give you about equal specs to a BMS mount. However, I will warn you, there is a lot of vibration caused by this thing.
Search eBay for "VW Golf control arm bushing solid". You can get them for around $20 or so.
- Level 4: I couldn't imagine anyone wanting to install one of these, but why not? I'll add it anyway. This is a Polyurethane bushing. You might as well weld a piece of metal where the mount used to be, because that's the kind of vibration you'll get. Under daily driver conditions, I have no doubt this vibration will break something. It sure caused my belts to squeal and something to go rattling. I'd only go for this if your smart will only be used for racing.
Search eBay for "VW Golf control arm bushing polyurethane". They're about $20-$30
Performance characteristics.
- Level 1: Restores factory performance. Little lag, no noticeable vibration.
- Level 2: For those who want the feel of the BMS mount without the vibration. Slightly sharper shifts, less hesitation, little vibration.
- Level 3: BMS mount on a budget! Sharp shifts, very little hesitation, you can feel that torque!!! Increased vibration.
- Level 4: What were you thinking?!?!?! Samurai sword sharp shifts, what hesitation? And vibration so harsh your car will fall apart.
Installation. Okay, here we go!
1. Back your car up onto your ramps. Take it slow and set the handbrake when you're finished. Add chocks to the front wheels for extra safety (thanks Jwight!).
2. Attach your E18 socket to your breaker bar and crawl under the car. Spot the mount:
3. Loosen both bolts with the breaker bar.
4. Put the E18 onto your ratchet and finish removing both bolts. VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!: Do not mix up the bolts, short one in back, long up front.
5. Pull out the stock mount.
6. Take out your rotary tool (or whatever your tool of destruction is) and remove every bit of rubber you see here. Get all of it!:
7. If you can't get it down to the bare metal, at least make sure the remaining rubber lining is completely smooth.
8. Take your bushing, place it on its rim on a concrete surface, and tap it a few times with your sledgehammer.
9. Douse the motor mount frame and your bushing in lubricant.
10. Work the bushing into the frame, use the hammer and sledgehammer to work it in. Use the flathead screwdriver to pry it in. It's imperative that you get the bushing dead centre in the frame.
It should NOT look like this, but dead centre with the frame:
11. Follow directions in reverse to reinstall motor mount.
12. Drive off the ramps slow to prevent kickback.
To remove the bushing, pry it out of the frame.
Thanks to ilomax for this awesome mod!!!!
To reduce vibration, you can install a smaller bushing into the front half of the frame, but you need a shop press to do that. Consult ilomax for info on how to do that.
Anything I missed? Questions? Just say so and I'll edit!
Firstly, you're probably asking, "why?"
Building your own mount is an inexpensive way to get a stiffer mount, repair a broken mount, and be able to have interchangeable mounts all at the same time.
So, let's start with what you need to obtain.
Tools:
- Ramps or jack stands - I recommend ramps, metal ramps. DO NOT get plastic ramps. Jack stands will also suffice, but I trust the ramps more. You can get some ramps from Harbor Freight for $40.
- Breaker bar - You want a short one. You can get one from Harbor Freight for around $11 or so.
- E18 socket - You can get one of these from Harbor Freight for around $9, but I don't recommend it. The HF E18 sockets aren't deep enough.
- Ratchet - Self explanatory.
- Rotary tool - You'll need an attachment that'll cut through rubber and a coarse sanding attachment.
- Lubricant - Any lube will do. I used some "Lub-Fix" from the local Dollar Tree.
- Hammer - Self Explanatory.
- Flathead screwdriver - See "Hammer".
- Sledgehammer - I recommend a large one, but a small one will work too. About $20 or so at Harbor Freight.
Okay, now for the parts. I'm going to say there are four "levels" of stiffness you're going to consider.
The parts in question are control arm bushings for the 2004 VW Golf/Jetta and 2004 VW Golf R32. All parts can be found on eBay. Sorry, no links as they expire.
This is what they'll look like:
- Level 1: This is best used as a direct replacement for your stock mount. The manufacturer for these things is Moog.
Search eBay for "VW Golf control arm bushing Moog." I got one for $3.
- Level 2: This one is slightly harder rubber than the Moog bushing. Stiffer than stock, but not quite like a BMS mount. Honestly, any brand that's a lot more expensive than Moog uses stiffer rubber. You get what you pay for.
Search eBay for "VW Golf control arm bushing." These things run $8-$20 depending on seller.
- Level 3: Now we're getting into some serious territory. This is a SOLID rubber bushing. Installing this will give you about equal specs to a BMS mount. However, I will warn you, there is a lot of vibration caused by this thing.
Search eBay for "VW Golf control arm bushing solid". You can get them for around $20 or so.
- Level 4: I couldn't imagine anyone wanting to install one of these, but why not? I'll add it anyway. This is a Polyurethane bushing. You might as well weld a piece of metal where the mount used to be, because that's the kind of vibration you'll get. Under daily driver conditions, I have no doubt this vibration will break something. It sure caused my belts to squeal and something to go rattling. I'd only go for this if your smart will only be used for racing.
Search eBay for "VW Golf control arm bushing polyurethane". They're about $20-$30
Performance characteristics.
- Level 1: Restores factory performance. Little lag, no noticeable vibration.
- Level 2: For those who want the feel of the BMS mount without the vibration. Slightly sharper shifts, less hesitation, little vibration.
- Level 3: BMS mount on a budget! Sharp shifts, very little hesitation, you can feel that torque!!! Increased vibration.
- Level 4: What were you thinking?!?!?! Samurai sword sharp shifts, what hesitation? And vibration so harsh your car will fall apart.
Installation. Okay, here we go!
1. Back your car up onto your ramps. Take it slow and set the handbrake when you're finished. Add chocks to the front wheels for extra safety (thanks Jwight!).
2. Attach your E18 socket to your breaker bar and crawl under the car. Spot the mount:
3. Loosen both bolts with the breaker bar.
4. Put the E18 onto your ratchet and finish removing both bolts. VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!: Do not mix up the bolts, short one in back, long up front.
5. Pull out the stock mount.
6. Take out your rotary tool (or whatever your tool of destruction is) and remove every bit of rubber you see here. Get all of it!:
7. If you can't get it down to the bare metal, at least make sure the remaining rubber lining is completely smooth.
8. Take your bushing, place it on its rim on a concrete surface, and tap it a few times with your sledgehammer.
9. Douse the motor mount frame and your bushing in lubricant.
10. Work the bushing into the frame, use the hammer and sledgehammer to work it in. Use the flathead screwdriver to pry it in. It's imperative that you get the bushing dead centre in the frame.
It should NOT look like this, but dead centre with the frame:
11. Follow directions in reverse to reinstall motor mount.
12. Drive off the ramps slow to prevent kickback.
To remove the bushing, pry it out of the frame.
Thanks to ilomax for this awesome mod!!!!
To reduce vibration, you can install a smaller bushing into the front half of the frame, but you need a shop press to do that. Consult ilomax for info on how to do that.
Anything I missed? Questions? Just say so and I'll edit!
