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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Okay folks, I finally got around to this! Sit back, enjoy, and let it be known that I'm not responsible for any mess ups. :)

Firstly, you're probably asking, "why?"

Building your own mount is an inexpensive way to get a stiffer mount, repair a broken mount, and be able to have interchangeable mounts all at the same time.

So, let's start with what you need to obtain.

Tools:

- Ramps or jack stands - I recommend ramps, metal ramps. DO NOT get plastic ramps. Jack stands will also suffice, but I trust the ramps more. You can get some ramps from Harbor Freight for $40.

- Breaker bar - You want a short one. You can get one from Harbor Freight for around $11 or so.

- E18 socket - You can get one of these from Harbor Freight for around $9, but I don't recommend it. The HF E18 sockets aren't deep enough.

- Ratchet - Self explanatory.

- Rotary tool - You'll need an attachment that'll cut through rubber and a coarse sanding attachment.

- Lubricant - Any lube will do. I used some "Lub-Fix" from the local Dollar Tree.

- Hammer - Self Explanatory.

- Flathead screwdriver - See "Hammer".

- Sledgehammer - I recommend a large one, but a small one will work too. About $20 or so at Harbor Freight.



Okay, now for the parts. I'm going to say there are four "levels" of stiffness you're going to consider.

The parts in question are control arm bushings for the 2004 VW Golf/Jetta and 2004 VW Golf R32. All parts can be found on eBay. Sorry, no links as they expire.

This is what they'll look like:



- Level 1: This is best used as a direct replacement for your stock mount. The manufacturer for these things is Moog.

Search eBay for "VW Golf control arm bushing Moog." I got one for $3.

- Level 2: This one is slightly harder rubber than the Moog bushing. Stiffer than stock, but not quite like a BMS mount. Honestly, any brand that's a lot more expensive than Moog uses stiffer rubber. You get what you pay for.

Search eBay for "VW Golf control arm bushing." These things run $8-$20 depending on seller.

- Level 3: Now we're getting into some serious territory. This is a SOLID rubber bushing. Installing this will give you about equal specs to a BMS mount. However, I will warn you, there is a lot of vibration caused by this thing.

Search eBay for "VW Golf control arm bushing solid". You can get them for around $20 or so.

- Level 4: I couldn't imagine anyone wanting to install one of these, but why not? I'll add it anyway. This is a Polyurethane bushing. You might as well weld a piece of metal where the mount used to be, because that's the kind of vibration you'll get. Under daily driver conditions, I have no doubt this vibration will break something. It sure caused my belts to squeal and something to go rattling. I'd only go for this if your smart will only be used for racing.

Search eBay for "VW Golf control arm bushing polyurethane". They're about $20-$30

Performance characteristics.

- Level 1: Restores factory performance. Little lag, no noticeable vibration.

- Level 2: For those who want the feel of the BMS mount without the vibration. Slightly sharper shifts, less hesitation, little vibration.

- Level 3: BMS mount on a budget! Sharp shifts, very little hesitation, you can feel that torque!!! Increased vibration.

- Level 4: What were you thinking?!?!?! Samurai sword sharp shifts, what hesitation? And vibration so harsh your car will fall apart.

Installation. Okay, here we go!

1. Back your car up onto your ramps. Take it slow and set the handbrake when you're finished. Add chocks to the front wheels for extra safety (thanks Jwight!).





2. Attach your E18 socket to your breaker bar and crawl under the car. Spot the mount:



3. Loosen both bolts with the breaker bar.

4. Put the E18 onto your ratchet and finish removing both bolts. VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!: Do not mix up the bolts, short one in back, long up front.

5. Pull out the stock mount.

6. Take out your rotary tool (or whatever your tool of destruction is) and remove every bit of rubber you see here. Get all of it!:



7. If you can't get it down to the bare metal, at least make sure the remaining rubber lining is completely smooth.

8. Take your bushing, place it on its rim on a concrete surface, and tap it a few times with your sledgehammer.

9. Douse the motor mount frame and your bushing in lubricant.

10. Work the bushing into the frame, use the hammer and sledgehammer to work it in. Use the flathead screwdriver to pry it in. It's imperative that you get the bushing dead centre in the frame.

It should NOT look like this, but dead centre with the frame:



11. Follow directions in reverse to reinstall motor mount.

12. Drive off the ramps slow to prevent kickback.

To remove the bushing, pry it out of the frame.

Thanks to ilomax for this awesome mod!!!! :D

To reduce vibration, you can install a smaller bushing into the front half of the frame, but you need a shop press to do that. Consult ilomax for info on how to do that.

Anything I missed? Questions? Just say so and I'll edit!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Made some edits. Maybe a sticky for future references? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Those little rubber blocks are the original mount!! :eek:

The problem is that the rubber wears out over time and becomes super flexible.
 

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I have noticed lately that when I brake, and come to a complete stop, occasionally I get a clunk from the back of my Pure. maybe my motor mount has become worn?? has the stock original mount that came with the car....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
With as many miles as you have, no doubt your original mount is worn. How worn? I can't say.

The clunk could be anything though, but caused by the engine moving around on the mount more than it should.
 

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Looks good!

I still have the softer bushing in right now, maybe I'll swap back over to the solid rubber mount today.

No issues after about 5,000 miles.

I see absolutely no reason to use the polyurethane insert except for race applications.
I tried for about 3 blocks and instantly removed it... I still have the insert if anyone wants to try.

Definitely one of my favorite mods.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm currently running the "Level 2" (soft, but not as soft as a Moog bushing). Not as sharp as a BMS, but better than factory.

I ran the "Level 4" for about 100 miles. It shook one of the belts loose, dislodged my catalytic converter heat shield, and damaged either the baffles or the flex pipe on my exhaust.

I wouldn't recommend the latter at all.
 

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My BMS mount will be installed next and I'll be in the US the following week to visit a friend in Minnesota. If anyone wants my OEM mount let me know and I'll bring it with me and I can ship it from there. Or if your in Canada I can send it from home.
 

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Lol after 3 days having the BMS mount in I can't believe you made it a hundred miles with the polyurethane bushing.
 

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Is there another bushing that will fit with less effort? I'm going with level #2
I'm planning on doing the swap next week and plan on taking it to a mechanic get it done.
 

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One slight correction/input Mr.Neonspinnazz

The solid rubber mount (No holes) is used on the 2004 Volkswagen Golf R32 or 2000s Audi TT.

The small bushing is pain in the butt to install.

The larger bushing isn't to bad, just a little finesse with a sledge hammer.

I feel a slightly smaller sledge would make life a little easier... :)
 

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Anyone try grinding down the 2 metal ridges in the middle of the mount to make the install easier and more center? A metal file would be a good option if i had a vise. Would i use a course sand paper and follow up with a med grit be the option for someone without the vise?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Anyone try grinding down the 2 metal ridges in the middle of the mount to make the install easier and more center? A metal file would be a good option if i had a vise. Would i use a course sand paper and follow up with a med grit be the option for someone without the vise?
You wouldn't want it to be more center. That would bring the bushing out alignment with the holes and may cause unintended behaviour like vibrations.

I used lubricant. The bushing slid right in with just a few taps of the sledge.

ilmax, thanks!! :) I didn't attempt getting the smaller bushing in. I have no clue how anyone would do that without a shop press.
 

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You wouldn't want it to be more center. That would bring the bushing out alignment with the holes and may cause unintended behaviour like vibrations.

I used lubricant. The bushing slid right in with just a few taps of the sledge.

ilmax, thanks!! :) I didn't attempt getting the smaller bushing in. I have no clue how anyone would do that without a shop press.
The last picture in your post(under step #10 ) has a note above it that says to center the bushing. If i take a slight bit of metal off the two bottom ridges, the change of it going center would increase and it will install slightly easier. Your trying to put a round hole in a square peg.
After what you posted above, i assume taking a slight bit of metal off the top ridge would equal out taking metal off the bottom section ; to make the install easier with less sledge hammer pressure/blows needed.
How tight do i tq the bolts?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The last picture in your post(under step #10 ) has a note above it that says to center the bushing. If i take a slight bit of metal off the two bottom ridges, the change of it going center would increase and it will install slightly easier. Your trying to put a round hole in a square peg.
After what you posted above, i assume taking a slight bit of metal off the top ridge would equal out taking metal off the bottom section ; to make the install easier with less sledge hammer pressure/blows needed.
How tight do i tq the bolts?
Oh, that's what you meant by that! The way it was described originally had me thinking that there would be a much larger space for the bushing to sit in, which could be both good and bad.

I don't plan on testing that myself (my sledge seems to work at it just fine) but if it works for you, please add it here with pics! :D

As for torque, this video show have that information (I don't have YouTube access at work, so I couldn't tell you until late tonight):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eic7pFgrR24

If not, here's torque info for all mounts:
FQ101.co.uk - Tightening Torques
 

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Napa auto parts has the e18 for $5
Without writing a long story. Is there a model/trim level of jetta/ golf that have the metal casing. I ordered a bushing from a local auto parts store and it did not have the metal casing. They kept asking me the engine size. Is it only the front control arm bushing that fits?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Napa auto parts has the e18 for $5
Without writing a long story. Is there a model/trim level of jetta/ golf that have the metal casing. I ordered a bushing from a local auto parts store and it did not have the metal casing. They kept asking me the engine size. Is it only the front control arm bushing that fits?
Interesting! The original idea came from this thread: http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/f19/50-diy-upgraded-stiffer-performance-motor-mount-3-options-47849/

Parts are as follows:

1985-2004 Volkswagen Golf/Jetta Polyurethane control arm kit

2004 Volkswagen Golf R32 - Front control arm FRONT/REAR bushing (Solid rubber)

1985-2004 Volkswagen Golf/Jetta - Front control arm FRONT/REAR bushing
 

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So I'm confused as what do I get:


Basically my choices:

R32(solid) Front mount with Softer front bushing. Would you say that by adding the softer front bushing the vibration is less?

Jetta/Golf (metal surrounded) mount with or without softer front bushing????



I want the best response with the least amount of vibration for my daily driver.
 
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