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The car runs, but this HV System Workshop message is all that will display. I cannot scroll to see the remaining mileage on the battery or to set the time or anything. All I get is this message, and it is rather annoying.
 

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check this out

(source: https://github.com/MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag/issues/19 link here )

Vioilio's post Feb 3:
"Hi everyone. Its been a while since my last time here. I have been extremely busy the last couple of months and have not had a chance to give any updates.
Charging my battery was success! The car is currently getting used on a dally basis and no problems so far.
To answer some of the questions here:
All users above that asked for help with "HV Workshop Message". You must have Star Diag Mercedes diagnostic system. You must clear all errors and you must run software restart on all modules. If both of the batteries are charged this will take care of any residual problems after charging the HV battery.
It is the same for user "minorukurata". Clear all error codes with Star DAS and restart the software on all modules. If both of the batteries are charged and you do not have error code P18051c you should be able to start and drive your car. "
 

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I would be careful having MB touch your vehicle. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think I remember someone else taking their car to MB to clear the message and they screwed things up, requiring a battery replacement of over $10,000.
 

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I would be careful having MB touch your vehicle. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think I remember someone else taking their car to MB to clear the message and they screwed things up, requiring a battery replacement of over $10,000.
If not MB then where? MB is going to be the only place that will have the MB Star diagnostic system required to clear this code.
 

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I would be careful having MB touch your vehicle. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think I remember someone else taking their car to MB to clear the message and they screwed things up, requiring a battery replacement of over $10,000.
I seriously doubt that they screwed anything up, they simply decided to go for the default (and also very lucrative) thing to tell the customer - that they needed a new impossibly expensive HV battery and so they can get one more hated Smart ED off the road. The level of downright animosity that my local MB dealer has for the Smart generally and the ED particularly has to be seen to be believed.

By yes, take it to the dealer with BS detectors set on "high". Also, definitely ask them to perform Service campaign No. 2016060002 - BMS Software update, if it has not already been done.
 

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I have been getting the HV no start error messages lately at random times.
It seems to happen only when I see it not charging.
The fix I discovered it remove 12v battery Neg terminal for a few secs, then reconnect.
Starts charging right away and starts up no problem.
Seems to be ok for a week or so before errors again.
I think I have a contactor going bad, unsure.
12v batt is new, that did not cure the issue, new batts in keys.
 

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I have been getting the HV no start error messages lately at random times.
It seems to happen only when I see it not charging.
The fix I discovered it remove 12v battery Neg terminal for a few secs, then reconnect.
Starts charging right away and starts up no problem.
Seems to be ok for a week or so before errors again.
I think I have a contactor going bad, unsure.
12v batt is new, that did not cure the issue, new batts in keys.
If that is all it takes, you are essentially rebooting the system, (1st law of computer: when in doubt, reboot.). Great! Add an on-off switch to your cable to make it easier, and you’re all set!

Questions, is this on a 451 or 453? What year?
 

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I am getting the workshop message more often now. I also saw a few others and saved them. I know when I have a problem when I plug it in to charge and just get the flashing bars on speedo. I take off the neg 12v batt terminal, wait a few secs, then reconnect and the error is gone and charging works just fine. I think it is a contactor error, I also saw a precharge error. Any ideas? Since it is in my battery, I think, I prob have no warranty or coverage at all. So I guess I just keep resetting it as I have been. Battery still at 95 to 100%
 

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My 2014 12V died because I didn’t use the car for 2 months while I had A torn knee meniscu. I charged the 12V and the HV pack came up from <5% to 100% overnight. Now I have the HV System Workshop taking over my display. My nearest dealer is 100 miles away in Charlotte or Atlanta and since the Smart can’t make that trip I am stuck as well. I bought an OBD reset tool but no luck resetting the code. I really hope that I don’t have to tow the car both ways to just have MB reset the code. I am out of ideas anyone able to help with any ideas. I am pretty frustrated and have Googled myself to death.
 

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Another possible issue could simply be a poor ground connection? This has happened to me. A voltage measurement across the two 12v battery posts, should match exactly a measurement from the positive post to a clean metal ground location anywhere on the car. A resistance measurement from the neg post to anywhere there is a clean metal location on the body should be zero. Firmly wiggling the neg terminal to ground strap at either end (wear gloves) should produce no fluctuations in either measurement, and should have absolutely no movement. IF even slightly loose, disconnect, re-clean thoroughly and reattach firmly with adequate terminal grease to remove any carbonation or oxidation to any locations.

It's a shame Smart built an electric vehicle and kept in what's essentially a heavy antiquated lead acid starter battery for an internal combustion engine. Not Smart at all. WTF is right with this? :eek:
 

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MY08 cabrio MY09 cabrio Brabus MY15 ED
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It's a shame Smart built an electric vehicle and kept in what's essentially a heavy antiquated lead acid starter battery for an internal combustion engine. Not Smart at all. WTF is right with this? :eek:
And what would you suggest in lieu of an old school 12v starter battery?

Seems to be the gold standard for Tesla & Leaf too. The Hyundai IONIC Blue hybrid appears to be the first to utilize a Lithium starter battery.

"Some owners may be surprised to learn their car includes a 12v lead-acid battery. We’ll explain why and delve into everything about the 12v battery used in Tesla vehicles today."

A couple good reads ...



And although expensive, Ohmmu in Tempe, AZ has been selling TESLA & Leaf 12v Lithium batteries since 2016.

 

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My message is getting harder to reset, a few diff HV messages.
Quick disconnect of 12v battery used to reset it, so I put a switch on the neg wire.
 

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Hello All, my HV Workshop message is finally gone! I did not have any success with disconnecting the negative side of the 12V battery as Jenkinskg has. Also, as mentioned previously I tried several different scan tools with no luck either. As a final attempt I disconnected the 12V battery, pulled the HV service disconnect, and then went underneath and disconnected the HV cables from the HV battery. My hope was that this would cause the DCDC inverter to restart and this would clear the message.... No luck, but at least I didn't die! Luckily I was able to make it to the only MB/Smart dealer in the state. However, they were not certified to work on electric vehicles and didn't bother to tell me until I was there. Luckily they did have an EV level 2 charger though (not sure why if they can't touch EV's) so I was able to charge up. And they were nice enough to have a tech check out my car. Two hours later I had JUST enough juice to make it home and they sent me on my way. Code was cleared and they did not charge me a dime! What a pain in the ass that all was. Such a fiasco over nothing. My 12V batt simply got old and died and I replaced it. Luckily my Smart dealer was nice enough to fix it without even charging me. But I can't help but be concerned that they are not even allowed to work on EV's. Silly Michigan! It's 2020 now, get with the times!!!
 

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That's great news David!!! Let's hope your problems don't reappear like they have done with others.

I've got a couple of questions for you to clarify things for me if you don't mind.

1. What year is your car? Was it the original battery that you replaced?
2. When you said your dealer tech checked the car, does that mean that he cleared the codes for you?
3. How long was your car sitting with a bad battery?
4. Had your car had the service computer update for the battery from 2016?

Thanks and good luck.

Len
2014 EV Coupe 19,500 miles
2014 EV Cabriolet 17,000 miles
 

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Hello Sokoloff,
1. I have a 2014 451 ED Coupe with 23k miles. Yes this was the original 12V battery that died.
2. Yes, he plugged the Star Diagnostic laptop into the car and did his voodoo. They wouldn't give me any details about what he did, or how he was able to clear the fault. My scanner did not see any codes to clear, but clearly it just could not read all of the vehicles modules. I happen to work for Bosch, and we make a ~$5k scanner that we advertise as being equivalent to a universal dealer computer scanner. Before visiting the dealer and tried using this scan tool and it would not find any of the HV modules. I'm assuming the Star Diagnostic computer was simply able to clear the fault code from the DC/DC inverter module.
3. One morning after a year plus of normal daily operation, the car was simply black/dark (no lights) and silent when I put the key in and went to drive it. Having previously worked for Tesla I saw this many times with our engineering mule cars. Like any other vehicle when they sit for along time, and especially when small electrical loads are left on (as often happens with engineering mule cars) the 12V battery dies and they need to be jumped/charged/have the 12V battery replaced.

Back to my car. I connected a jump pack to the battery and the car started right up. I drove to the autoparts store and had the battery load tested and was told that the battery was fine so ran my errands and headed home have turned the car off and on several times without issue. The next morning the car was dead again, this time I connected my 12V battery charger. A few hours later when I tried again it was still black (no lights) no worky worky. So I disconnected the battery charger and connected the jump pack. This brought the car to life, but now the dreaded HV Workshop message was displayed.... I then drove to the store and changed out the 12V battery. Later that night my code scanner found that there was a code stored that said that the voltage in the vehicle had dropped bellow 7.4V or 4.3V something really low like that. I was hopeful that clearing that code would make the message go away but it did not. I continued to use the car normally for 2 or 3 months with the HV workshop message displayed untill I was finally able to get it cleared.
 

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David, did you get the "Service campaign No. 2016060002 - BMS Software update "?

I still haven't checked that on my 2016 ED.
 

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Good info David - thank you. How about my Question #4 on the computer update? Had it been done? If it hadn't been, I would hope that the dealer tech would have done it when he hooked your car up to the Star Diagnostic system. It only takes a few minutes and the owner shouldn't be charged. You've got a great background to understand these things and help those of us who are electrically challenged. :)

Hope you've now got many more miles/years to go now.

Len
2014 EV Coupe 19,500 miles
2014 EV Cabriolet 17,000 miles
 

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David, did you get the "Service campaign No. 2016060002 - BMS Software update "?

I still haven't checked that on my 2016 ED.
A cooperating/helpful service tech/dealership should be able to answer that for you via a phone call or e-mail. Sometimes they are hard to find though. My dealership in Cary, NC is very helpful. You can try contacting them, giving them your VIN and asking if there are any outstanding service campaigns for your car.

Len
2014 EV Coupe 19,500 miles
2014 EV Cabriolet 17,000 miles
 

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Sokoloff, sorry I forgot to answer #4 about the service update. I have no idea if it's been done or not. Thanks for the good idea to call and give the VIN to ask if it's been done or not. Any thoughts on what it might do? Or is that a topic from another thread?
 
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