[DDVW]

New to this forum. The heat went out on my 2015 smart fortwo ed last week. I pulled the hv manual disconnect in order to work on the PTC heater. Made some progress on the heater, and plugged the hv disconnect back in to test it. I am getting the same HV System Workshop message. The closest dealership is 60 miles away. Has anyone found a way to clear this message?

Just did the same thing (Dec17, 2022). Same Alert. Car Starts OK and Drives fine- but the error is locked in. The ODB2 readers I have cannot synch to car. Have read others have cleared it that way, but they have not identified the
ODB2 reader they are using (the model, not just the make).
BTW- did you get your heat repaired? Mine appeared to work for a few seconds, blowing cold air again. What did you try?

 

[DDVW]

Doru Bucsa,

Do you have any experience with the iCarsoft MB V3.0 clearing codes on an ED or EQ? From the negative reviews it sounds like it doesn't work all that well on ICE cars and the tech support is non-existent so unless you know for sure that it will clear the codes, please don't point to it as an option for someone who has a HV System Workshop message to clear.

DealMein- It works. Clears the codes, makes the HV System Workshop message go away on a SMART 42 ED after pulling the HV disconnect to repair the cabinet heater. Can record faults on a MicroSD card. Your response was a little "edgy." I'm grateful to Doru Busca for posting the link. I'm glad I have the Unit, so I don't have to rely on an (increasingly rare) Smart repair facility to clear the fault.

 

[DealMeIn]

DDVW,

I'm glad to hear that it works for you.

Lots of these sorts of products promise a lot of things that they clearly do not deliver on. Doru Bucsa seemed to be posting a recommendation for an item that he didn't have any experience using just based on their advertising.

Before anyone spends hundreds of dollars on an item such as this, it's preferred to know that it actually does the things promised.

Pardon our collective skepticism but so far we just have the word of two people who just joined this month. We still haven't seen any actual proof that it works - like before and after pictures of the car display and/or reports generated or pictures of the device in action.

 

[walkersurf]

I have a 2014 ED 451 it sat unused for four months. The HV battery was at 40 percent. The 12 volt was dead. Jump starting and charging the 12 volt did not work. I replaced the 12v battery. The next day the HV battery was on reserve. It will not take a charge. What should I do next?

 

[DealMeIn]

Walkersurf,

Welcome to the SCoA EV forum, sorry to hear that you are having trouble with your car, wish you had come here sooner to know how to avoid this problem.

If you have the HV Wokrshop message, the very least you will need is to get the current and stored codes cleared so that you can charge and drive the car - it's unlikely to be just that, but possible. If that isn't enough, then there is a lot of work necessary to get the car running again.

What you should do depends on what your exact problem is (would need battery diagnostic report and error codes for that) and what you or a local independent shop is willing/able to do. You should definitely at least read all the top "sticky" threads of the forum (the ones with the pins) and do a search for "bricked" in the forum and read those threads to get a better idea what others have been through and done.

 

[walkersurf]

Walkersurf,

Welcome to the SCoA EV forum, sorry to hear that you are having trouble with your car, wish you had come here sooner to know how to avoid this problem.

If you have the HV Wokrshop message, the very least you will need is to get the current and stored codes cleared so that you can charge and drive the car - it's unlikely to be just that, but possible. If that isn't enough, then there is a lot of work necessary to get the car running again.

What you should do depends on what your exact problem is (would need battery diagnostic report and error codes for that) and what you or a local independent shop is willing/able to do. You should definitely at least read all the top "sticky" threads of the forum (the ones with the pins) and do a search for "bricked" in the forum and read those threads to get a better idea what others have been through and done.

I have read those enough to understand to unhook the negative cable from my 12 V battery but I don’t understand whether I should pull the high voltage safety from the driver side, fuse box?

Is there something I can do to reboot it so that it will take a charge?

 

[DealMeIn]

I would not recommend pulling the HV disconnect - it is only meant for the dealers to use because it generates an error code that must be cleared.

There's no reboot feature to clear the codes. I suggest calling around to nearby independent mechanics to see if any of them are willing/able to clear the codes for you, otherwise you would need to buy a tool to do the job.

 

[walkersurf]

I have read those enough to understand to unhook the negative cable from my 12 V battery but I don’t understand whether I should pull the high voltage safety from the driver side, fuse box?

Is there something I can do to reboot it so that it will take a charge?

Sorry,I should’ve started with thank you for responding. I have read the entire thread not just the sticky ones, but there are things that I still don’t understand. I am hoping you can help me clarify. One of the things I’m baffled by is my own experience of how the 12 V battery went completely dead over 3 months such that the door locks would not work, but the high-voltage battery was still at 40%, however when I put the new battery in and left it one night, the high-voltage was completely drained.

I am at a loss for why that occurred and why when I hook it up to a high voltage charger, it will not communicate and initiate the charge.

How do I keep it from getting worse?

 

[walkersurf]

I would not recommend pulling the HV disconnect - it is only meant for the dealers to use because it generates an error code that must be cleared.

There's no reboot feature to clear the codes. I suggest calling around to nearby independent mechanics to see if any of them are willing/able to clear the codes for you, otherwise you would need to buy a tool to do the job.

Will clearing the codes allow it to take a charge?

 

[walkersurf]

The nearest dealer is 100 miles away and it is not drivable in its current state.

 

[walkersurf]

The nearest dealer is 100 miles away and it is not drivable in its current state.

My local shops say that they do not work on smart.

 

[walkersurf]

My local shops say that they do not work on smart.

I have read that some people have drivable cars that display the code. My car displays the code and it’s not drivable. If I get the codes cleared will the car be drivable or do I need to do something else to get the car to be drivable and I can just put up with looking at the code until I can get it reset.

 

[DealMeIn]

12V batteries die. If the one you had was original it was over 8 years old. When you put the new one in, the computer rechecked the HV pack level which is why it it now shows as being drained. The HV system charges the 12V and is never completely off - it is always using some power until it drains the pack completely (which is a massive design flaw).

Your local shop doesn't have to work on the car, just clear the codes. Owner operated shops are usually the ones to go with. I'm lucky, there's one a block and a half away from my house.

There is no way to be certain if clearing the codes alone will do the job, but it is always going to be the first thing to do.

I would buy a tool that can clear all the codes before I'd take the car to a M-B dealer unless you already have a very good relationship with the dealer.

Some people have been able to drive the car with the message, but most not. It all depends on which codes have been generated. Some people have been able to drive and charge the car after getting the codes cleared and some have not. If none of the cells has dropped too far or the current sensor damaged, then the car should work again (drive and charge).

If the cells are too far down or the current sensor has been damaged then the codes will just come back and the car will work.

 

[walkersurf]

12V batteries die. If the one you had was original it was over 8 years old. When you put the new one in, the computer rechecked the HV pack level which is why it it now shows as being drained. The HV system charges the 12V and is never completely off - it is always using some power until it drains the pack completely (which is a massive design flaw).

Your local shop doesn't have to work on the car, just clear the codes. Owner operated shops are usually the ones to go with. I'm lucky, there's one a block and a half away from my house.

There is no way to be certain if clearing the codes alone will do the job, but it is always going to be the first thing to do.

I would buy a tool that can clear all the codes before I'd take the car to a M-B dealer unless you already have a very good relationship with the dealer.

Some people have been able to drive the car with the message, but most not. It all depends on which codes have been generated. Some people have been able to drive and charge the car after getting the codes cleared and some have not. If none of the cells has dropped too far or the current sensor damaged, then the car should work again (drive and charge).

If the cells are too far down or the current sensor has been damaged then the codes will just come back and the car will work.

Thank you I have a CK – 100+ tool that is mostly for coding keys but will read some air codes. What is the simplest tool to use that does not require a software degree ?

 

[DealMeIn]

You can try reading the codes with the tool you have, it might give a better idea of what went wrong.

The MUCAR Vo6 is going to be easier than the Openport 2.0 clone with Vendiamo 4.2.2 or Xentry software, but is more expensive and requires a yearly subscription for the Smartcar.

Likely least expensive of all is get a local shop to clear the codes.

 

[walkersurf]

You can try reading the codes with the tool you have, it might give a better idea of what went wrong.

The MUCAR Vo6 is going to be easier than the Openport 2.0 clone with Vendiamo 4.2.2 or Xentry software, but is more expensive and requires a yearly subscription for the Smartcar.

Likely least expensive of all is get a local shop to clear the codes.

The car is not movable. Bringing the scanner to the car is easier. I checked out the MUCARVo6 on Amazon. One of the questions answered was.

Question:
Can this device reset fault codes in a 2015 smartfortwo electric drive, that a foxwell nt510 cannot?
Answer:
Dear Customer,
We are very sorry, VO6 currently does not support diagnosing cars with electric vehicle engines.
Thanks
By XingKa Tech SELLER on April 2, 2022

So do you think this is accurate? Would I be better off with a different unit?

 

[DealMeIn]

Everyone who has posted here about using the Vo6 say that it does work with the Smart EV but you do have to pay for the yearly subscription for the car.

You can check out the thread of the post of SilentFortWhite - he's using one now on his car - and ask him if it's worth the money.

 

[Vincent Rapide]

When I wake up my 451ed after a few weeks by reconnecting the NEG 12v cable sometimes weird things like %CHARGE meter showing a high-ish reading for 20 minutes +/- of driving but then all of a sudden you see the meter dropping down to half what it had been showing. But ending up on a % that would not have been surprising at all really after these weeks. So just part of SwatchMobile excitement at no extra cost
--

 

[walkersurf]

Everyone who has posted here about using the Vo6 say that it does work with the Smart EV but you do have to pay for the yearly subscription for the car.

You can check out the thread of the post of SilentFortWhite - he's using one now on his car - and ask him if it's worth the money.

Can I get some help interpreting my arduino log?



........Reading data....................OK
-----------------------------------------
Battery VIN: WMEEJ9AA1EK735629
Time [hh:mm]: 19:16, ODO : 64618 km
-----------------------------------------
Battery Status : OK

Battery Production [Y/M/D]: 2013/7/8
Battery-FAT date [Y/M/D]: 2013/7/10
Rev.[Y/WK/PL] HW:2012/38/0, SW:2013/29/1
-----------------------------------------
SOC : 0.0 %, realSOC: 0.0 %
HV : 316.9 V, 0.00 A, 0.00 kW
LV : 13.1 V
-----------------------------------------
CV mean : 65535 mV, dV = 0 mV
CV min : 1499 mV
CV max : 1499 mV
OCVtimer: 14943 s
-----------------------------------------
Last measurement : 82 day(s)
Measurement estimation: 0.757
Actual estimation : 0.202
CAP mean: 18846 As/10, 52.3 Ah
CAP min : 17700 As/10, 49.2 Ah
CAP max : 18300 As/10, 50.8 Ah
-----------------------------------------
HV contactor state OFF, for: 199371 s
Cycles left : 287484
of max. cycles: 300000
DC isolation : 12498 kOhm, OK
-----------------------------------------
Temperatures Battery-Unit /degC:
module 1: 9.5, 7.7, 10.5
module 2: 9.2, 8.1, 9.4
module 3: 9.1, 8.3, 9.6
mean : 9.0, min : 7.7, max : 10.5
coolant : 9.8
-----------------------------------------
# ;mV ;As/10
01;42;18846
02;53;18759
03;50;18846
04;52;18802
05;51;18759
06;52;18759
07;43;18846
08;38;18672
09;41;18759
10;39;18802
11;28;18715
12;37;18846
13;57;19113
14;65527;18587
15;50;18978
16;47;18802
17;53;18802
18;53;18759
19;49;18759
20;51;18715
21;55;18759
22;34;18846
23;39;18890
24;49;18934
25;54;18890
26;48;18978
27;32;18846
28;20;18802
29;33;18759
30;29;18846
31;18;18759
32;5;18934
33;42;18890
34;0;18672
35;35;18802
36;42;18715
37;46;18846
38;53;18846
39;46;18846
40;48;18759
41;44;18802
42;39;18802
43;40;18759
44;48;18715
45;42;18672
46;40;18715
47;52;18715
48;62047;18934
49;51;18802
50;39;18759
51;41;18802
52;47;18672
53;42;18846
54;40;18802
55;34;18715
56;42;18846
57;48;18759
58;47;18759
59;39;18587
60;48;18759
61;33;18587
62;65530;18629
63;30;18802
64;24;18715
65;33;18846
66;31;18846
67;41;18890
68;33;18934
69;28;18846
70;31;18759
71;18;18544
72;36;18846
73;35;18890
74;32;18934
75;28;18934
76;29;18802
77;27;18846
78;32;18890
79;40;18978
80;36;18890
81;33;18890
82;26;18802
83;23;18759
84;30;18934
85;35;19023
86;29;18802
87;32;18802
88;43;18802
89;42;18890
90;15;18846
91;43;18802
92;42;18802
93;21;18802
-----------------------------------------
Individual Cell Statistics:
-----------------------------------------
CV mean : -1 mV, dV= 3546 mV, s= 363.91 mV
CV min : 62047 mV, # 48
CV max : 57 mV, # 13
-----------------------------------------
CAP mean: 18808 As/10, 52.2 Ah
CAP min : 18544 As/10, 51.5 Ah, # 71
CAP max : 19113 As/10, 53.1 Ah, # 13
-----------------------------------------
Voltage Distribution (dV= 3546 mV):
---------------------------------------
62047 04 > [31; 39; 47] < 00 57
min [p25; median; p75] max
-----------------------------------------
Reading data....OK
-----------------------------------------
Status OBL Charger-Unit:
User selected : 16 A
Cable maximum : 204 A
AC L1: 0.0 V, 0.0 A
DC HV: 0.0 V, 0.0 A
DC LV: 13.2 V
-----------------------------------------
Temperatures Charger-Unit /degC:
Reported : NA
Cooling plate : NA
Inlet socket : NA
-----------------------------------------
Reading data.OK
-----------------------------------------
Status Cooling- and Subsystems:
Temperature : 12.1 degC
Cooling fan : 0.0 %
Cooling pump : 0.0 %, 11 degC
: 13.0 V, 0.0 A
OTR:
Cooling fan : 105 h
Cooling pump : 8196 h
Battery heater: 0 h, OFF
Vaccum pump : 59.873 h
Pressure 1, 2 : -317 mbar, -317 mbar
-----------------------------------------

 

[DealMeIn]

It looks like very bad news - you definitely have a bricked HV pack.

The individual cell statistics (01 through 93) are showing very low numbers and some crazy high numbers.

To get the car running again, at a minimum you will have to drop the pack out of the car to try and individually charge the cells and send the BMS to get fixed (the code can't be cleared any other way).

Probably have some cells that would need to be replaced as well (the crazy high number ones - 14, 48 and 62), but that's just a guess from an amateur.