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I caused this HV System Workshop code by tinkering around last night. The car runs and charges fine. Anyone know if I have the ability to reset this myself?
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HV System Workshop
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I caused this HV System Workshop code by tinkering around last night. The car runs and charges fine. Anyone know if I have the ability to reset this myself?
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"Tinkering" doesn't provide many clues as to allow our fellow smart CSI members to do their thing?![]()
I caused this HV System Workshop code by tinkering around last night.
Don't think that you can "tinker" the code away without the STAR Diagnostic computer BUT here is a Zombie thread on the "Workshop" code from January 2015 - https://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/f170/12-volt-battery-died-90058/
Readers Digest Condensed version of 26 posts . . .
12 Volt Battery Died - Update
Took it to the dealer, it was the DC to DC converter that was faulty.
As with all things smart and smart ED - YMMV . . .
And from up North - http://www.thesmartclub.com/board/showthread.php?27579-High-Voltage-system-Consult-workshop
http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?/topic/28328-charging-issue/
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I was looking at putting a simple harness on for when I need to attach a platform or tow a small trailer. I opened the right side access in the back to see if all of the tail light connections ran through one side or the other. I disconnected a really big connection on the theory that if it was the right the tail lights would stop working. Bad theory.
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This is what I unplugged and plugged back in.
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Looks harmless but that "really big connection" may have been sending a message to the HV (339/391V) side and ED was only trying to protect you from yourself?
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I have factory trained technicians who work on cars daily for a living, including electrical work. When dealing the smart EV (and any other electric vehicle for that matter), the voltages can get high enough to kill somebody. So please be sure you know what you're doing if tapping into any wiring, and I can say from my own personal training that if there are any wires wrapped in orange --- DEFINITELY leave those alone. Those are high voltage lines.
For certain jobs they let the car sit and place cones around the vehicle as a warning for any curious george's to stay away from the vehicle as the HV battery may be removed, or exposed, or other components.
For certain jobs they let the car sit and place cones around the vehicle as a warning for any curious george's to stay away from the vehicle as the HV battery may be removed, or exposed, or other components.
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I have provoked that message by compromising the CAN bus with an incorrectly assembled battery test unit during testing.
In that case, removing the offending test unit (from OBD2 port) and power cycling the car fixed it.
I suspect you’ve already effectively tried that, though.
In that case, removing the offending test unit (from OBD2 port) and power cycling the car fixed it.
I suspect you’ve already effectively tried that, though.
The wires shown in the picture are absolutely NOT high voltage wires - they are part of the 12V accessory power or LIN communication syatem or the 5V CAN communication system and Chris was doing nothing unsafe by disconnecting them. Even disconnecting the big HV (orange) connectors (as I have on the A/C compressor on my Smart ED) cannot harm anyone unless the person deliberately goes out of their way to close a circuit between the + and - poles of the battery pack i.e., DC is not like AC - closing a path from a single pole of the battery pack to earth will do absolutely nothing.
Or more simply, unplugging any electrical cord your home is probably more dangerous than unplugging a HV electrical connector in a Smart EV - especially since there is an interlock syatem that cuts power from the battery pack off immediately upon the connector being pulled.
Most of the rather extreme service measures imposed on Smart Service technicians are the result of lawyers, not electrical engineers. If the car's keyswitch is turned off than nothing in the HV syatem outside of the battery case is energized. There is also a separate "service disconnect" in the Smart becsaue of "lockout-tagout" requirements of OSHA or other countries occupational safety and health regulations.
There is entirely too much hype and scaremongering surrounding EVs by electrical physics-illiterate people in the "technology" industry. We are even seeing people thinking that if an EV goes into a lake, people swimming nearby can get electrocuted.
There is a scanner. The "iCarsoft i980 scanner" - that can be used to read and clear MB car diagnostic codes - probably including the "HV System - Workshop" one.
http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/fo...g-light-now-icarsoft-i980-clears-code-150194/
As warranties expire and our already unfriendly local MB dealers start refusing to work on Smart ED's, I really look forward to this forum being a place where we can obtain technical and safety information on repairing our Smart ED's. People telling us flatly "no user service should be attempted" are not going to be very welcome here in the near future.
Or more simply, unplugging any electrical cord your home is probably more dangerous than unplugging a HV electrical connector in a Smart EV - especially since there is an interlock syatem that cuts power from the battery pack off immediately upon the connector being pulled.
Most of the rather extreme service measures imposed on Smart Service technicians are the result of lawyers, not electrical engineers. If the car's keyswitch is turned off than nothing in the HV syatem outside of the battery case is energized. There is also a separate "service disconnect" in the Smart becsaue of "lockout-tagout" requirements of OSHA or other countries occupational safety and health regulations.
There is entirely too much hype and scaremongering surrounding EVs by electrical physics-illiterate people in the "technology" industry. We are even seeing people thinking that if an EV goes into a lake, people swimming nearby can get electrocuted.
There is a scanner. The "iCarsoft i980 scanner" - that can be used to read and clear MB car diagnostic codes - probably including the "HV System - Workshop" one.
http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/fo...g-light-now-icarsoft-i980-clears-code-150194/
As warranties expire and our already unfriendly local MB dealers start refusing to work on Smart ED's, I really look forward to this forum being a place where we can obtain technical and safety information on repairing our Smart ED's. People telling us flatly "no user service should be attempted" are not going to be very welcome here in the near future.
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If you want to work on your car it is your legal right and I'm not judging you for doing it. I was not intending to suggest that the person on this thread did anything they weren't supposed to do.
My message was to the general public who may stumble upon this thread and then take the seemingly logical decision to start working on their own car. Most folks will probably be fine because they will take the necessary precautions.
I've been trained on HV vehicles since 2010. Taken the sales and technician coursework. Those courses scare everybody to death because it's better to be fearful and take precautions than it is to make a critical mistake you can't ever make again. The purpose of my fear tactic was to scare people into taking the necessary precautions. Getting zapped by 400 volts is a mistake nobody can afford to make.
All the gloves, the cones around the car, the refusal to pull high voltage wires and begin work immediately, etc, is all just precautionary stuff. Super extra precautions are taken when working around HV equipment. Just be careful, that's the only point that I'm making. I'm not judging anybody. :nerd:
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Good words. I have a background in power and electronics. So I know when to stop with my tinkering. It’s good to remind people to be aware of the high voltage potential of these cars. These forums can show up on Google searches so it’s good to float some warnings out there about the safety issues when it comes to EVs.
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I posted this on another tread. I had the same thing happen to me from pulling the HV disconnect that’s under the drivers side. If needed for safety you can pull it out but absolutely DO NOT turn the key on with it unplugged cause that’s what I did and it caused the error. I can tell you the solution the shop did was shutdown and restarted the HV battery system/computer. And then the message went away. After seeing that’s what they did I wondered if disconnecting the HV battery from under the car would cause that computer to power cycle and restart. Mine fixed now, but if ever that comes back for whatever reason. That’s the first thing I’ll do. If someone try’s it, I’d like to know if it works or not
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If anyone is looking for more affordable compatible scan tools for their ED before spending $ on MB STAR multiplexer setup or at a dealer/shop:
Autel at200 / ht200 (presumably the Autel "diaglink" may be similar if you are looking for handheld as opposed to bluetooth- the Autel website has useful compatibility info on their website)
..and Wurth "wow snooper" / "Delphi ds150e" (chinese aliexpress clones) could be in the running.
I can confirm both have the 2013-16 electric as a model option & can read/clear at least some codes for the relevant N82/2 BMS system (although I haven't tried them for this type of hv system workshop error message).
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Welcome me into this HV System Workshop error. My little Smart has finally let me down.
For 2 strong years as a daily diver without a single malfunction, I drive daily and one morning I went to head to work and it barely turned on, wouldn't go to run (No contactor click) and the dash light went out... DEAD 12V, I looked and it was the OEM Smart battery now 6 years old so I bought a new one, put it in and now I have "HV SYSTEM WORKSHOP"
My DC/DC converter seems to be working fine, when in Run mode and while charging I have 14.1V to the battery.
The car charges, drives and every accessory works fine, just that message and it blocks the use of the display functions.
Any ideas, my Autel MK808 cannot rest this one.
For 2 strong years as a daily diver without a single malfunction, I drive daily and one morning I went to head to work and it barely turned on, wouldn't go to run (No contactor click) and the dash light went out... DEAD 12V, I looked and it was the OEM Smart battery now 6 years old so I bought a new one, put it in and now I have "HV SYSTEM WORKSHOP"
My DC/DC converter seems to be working fine, when in Run mode and while charging I have 14.1V to the battery.
The car charges, drives and every accessory works fine, just that message and it blocks the use of the display functions.
Any ideas, my Autel MK808 cannot rest this one.
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531 Posts
Be thankful that this car has allowed the 6 year old 12v battery to die without damaging the high voltage battery. You got to it in time; others are not so lucky.
After FIVE YEARS is a good time to replace just to be safe. Give away the 5 year old to someone who can still use it in a gas car and find a dead lead-acid battery
somewhere to cover your core cost. Unfortunately there is no way to somehow notify all Smart_EV owners to replace their 12v battery ahead of time.
Hoping that someone with an aging 12v battery will read this, LOL.
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After FIVE YEARS is a good time to replace just to be safe. Give away the 5 year old to someone who can still use it in a gas car and find a dead lead-acid battery
somewhere to cover your core cost. Unfortunately there is no way to somehow notify all Smart_EV owners to replace their 12v battery ahead of time.
Hoping that someone with an aging 12v battery will read this, LOL.
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