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Discussion Starter #1
As I said in my new person post, I just recently purchased my first smart, a 2008. But I have a few questions. The previous owner did some modifications but I dont have any receipts.

The person installed a aftermarket tach, oil pressure gauge, and engine temp gauge.

He also changed the air box in the engine compartment to a cylindrical air filter that isn't in an air box and is just hanging down on the left of the engine instead of being hooked up to the air vent on the left side of the car.

Has anyone else done a modification like that?

Also, what is the typical engine running heat? The temp gauge I have shows the engine running mainly between 180 and 210F, with sometimes going over 210. I'm not sure if this is typical for a smart. I'm concerned that it might to too warm and if I should add an auxiliary cooling fan.

Will see about posting pictures later but I'm getting ready for work right now.

Any input would be appreciated.
 

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I’m sure the PM answered most of your questions, but as far as temp, mine usually sits around 194 fan kicks in at 213 if I remember correctly. (Been a while since I drove my gas smart.)
 

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Still learning this app/forum... but here are some pictures I took on break at work today. (I work 11am-10pm) so it's hard to have a reliable time to call people and stuff.) The top picture shows the lack of air box. The other shows a cylinder which is in a mesh bag. That is the air filter that was added, after market. I can't figure out what kind it is... I'm sure it should probably get replaced with a new filter soon though.


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Welcome to SCoA! :x

Oh my...that's...creative?

That's not an air intake any official vendor has offered. It looks like the PO hacked up the original intake resonator box and filter box then made their own cold air intake. The mildly infuriating thing to me is that they did some work to insulate the tube, but what's the point when the intake is pulling air from right below the cat (super hot) and next to the exhaust (also hot)? Further, why go through the work of routing the tube through the engine bay when there's a perfectly good intake tube merely inches away that could be sealed off from hot engine bay air?

People have made custom air intakes (my 451 has one), but I've never seen one like that. I'm not even sure what filter you'd change that out for.

Since the previous owner just completely nuked the intake, you may be better off getting one of the custom cold air intakes from Smart Madness. This cold air intake is more of a warm air intake, but it's cheap:

smart fortwo Cold Air Intake by SILA Concepts - Aluminium - Powdercoated Black Online Store - smart car Parts and Accessories

This one would be a true cold air intake as it seals the intake off from warm engine bay air:

smart fortwo 451 Cold Air Intake by SILA Concepts + Induction Tube Upgrade by MADNESS Online Store - smart car Parts and Accessories
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Welcome to SCoA! :x

Oh my...that's...creative?

That's not an air intake any official vendor has offered. It looks like the PO hacked up the original intake resonator box and filter box then made their own cold air intake. The mildly infuriating thing to me is that they did some work to insulate the tube, but what's the point when the intake is pulling air from right below the cat (super hot) and next to the exhaust (also hot)? Further, why go through the work of routing the tube through the engine bay when there's a perfectly good intake tube merely inches away that could be sealed off from hot engine bay air?

People have made custom air intakes (my 451 has one), but I've never seen one like that. I'm not even sure what filter you'd change that out for.

Since the previous owner just completely nuked the intake, you may be better off getting one of the custom cold air intakes from Smart Madness. This cold air intake is more of a warm air intake, but it's cheap:

smart fortwo Cold Air Intake by SILA Concepts - Aluminium - Powdercoated Black Online Store - smart car Parts and Accessories

This one would be a true cold air intake as it seals the intake off from warm engine bay air:

smart fortwo 451 Cold Air Intake by SILA Concepts + Induction Tube Upgrade by MADNESS Online Store - smart car Parts and Accessories
Ugh... that was EXACTLY the response I was afraid of... okay. Will look into those options.

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Another option would be to use a stock airbox (with low restriction air filter if your prefer) feeding onto one of the silicone hose options to connect to the throttle body. That would use the smart's outside air intake, avoid the PITA resonator and still be pretty inexpensive. :)
 

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Another option would be to use a stock airbox (with low restriction air filter if your prefer) feeding onto one of the silicone hose options to connect to the throttle body. That would use the smart's outside air intake, avoid the PITA resonator and still be pretty inexpensive. :)
Let us pretend that I am a total goofball for a second... pita? Like the bread?

Also, I looked up that on Google and from what I'm seeing... because the PO removed all the original hoses, would have to buy the whole assembly and that is not much less than the "warm air" intake and the cold air one listen above.

I checked my local "pick a part" and they have no smart cars

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I would just go back to a stock smart car air box. There’s a lot of salvage ones, out there to buy. The other thing, that engine compartment, is really dirty. You cars engine, will perform a lot cooler, if you clean some of the dirt off it. If you feel you car is running, a little to hot. Replace the engine thermostat, with a new one. Get rid of all that Mickey Mouse garbage on you car. Use a K&N air filter, in a stock OEM air box.
 

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I would just go back to a stock smart car air box. There’s a lot of salvage ones, out there to buy. The other thing, that engine compartment, is really dirty. You cars engine, will perform a lot cooler, if you clean some of the dirt off it. If you feel you car is running, a little to hot. Replace the engine thermostat, with a new one. Get rid of all that Mickey Mouse garbage on you car. Use a K&N air filter, in a stock OEM air box.
I will certainly look into to the stock box. Like I said, I just got the car two weeks ago last Thursday. It is currently exactly the way I purchased it. I have not made any modifications to the car since I purchased it. I am unsure as to what you mean by Micky mouse garbage.

How would you suggest cleaning the engine? I've never had a car with a rear mounted engine before. I do not have access to a water hose where I live, so I have been washing car at manual car wash. How would I get engine clean without soaking interior or damaging it with high pressure?

It's hard for me to find time to actually work on the car because I work 10-12 hour shifts at work, and work load has been high recently so its been mostly eat, sleep, and work lately.

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I will certainly look into to the stock box. Like I said, I just got the car two weeks ago last Thursday. It is currently exactly the way I purchased it. I have not made any modifications to the car since I purchased it. I am unsure as to what you mean by Micky mouse garbage.

How would you suggest cleaning the engine? I've never had a car with a rear mounted engine before. I do not have access to a water hose where I live, so I have been washing car at manual car wash. How would I get engine clean without soaking interior or damaging it with high pressure?

It's hard for me to find time to actually work on the car because I work 10-12 hour shifts at work, and work load has been high recently so its been mostly eat, sleep, and work lately.

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I would not use a high pressure, car wash spray to clean off the engine. Or even wetting it down with a hose. There are lots, of You Tube videos, on how to clean a engine, by hand with out soaking, it down. Which is bad on modern day electronic components. I watch one the other day. 4 different examples. I kept my engine clean since new. Just hand wiping it down.

https://youtu.be/PRSoRkM8GcM
 

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A dirty engine shouldn’t cause cause overheating. My engine looks like a 50 year old barn find (I know, shame on me) and it stays planted around 188-195 degrees, even while towing a 1500 pound trailer. It is normal for the car to occasionally exceed 210. The more important thing is if the cooling fan comes on and brings the car back down.

High engine running temps will usually be caused by issues in the cooling system or with the thermostat.

As for cleaning the engine goes, I’ve always used the low pressure sprayer at a manual wash bay and a little elbow grease to finish the job. Your mileage on this method may vary depending on the integrity of the seals of your electrical connectors.

Honestly, the stock airbox is a real hassle to deal with. The only reason you should want to go back to it is if you can find one for cheaper than the intakes I posted. Other than that, an aftermarket intake is easier to work with and gives you more space in the engine bay for other tasks.
 
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I doubt a dirty engine would cause it to run hot. My engine looks like a 50 year old barn find (I know, shame on me) and it stays planted around 188-195 degrees, even while towing a 1500 pound trailer.

High engine running temps will usually be caused by issues in the cooling system or with the thermostat.

As for cleaning the engine goes, I’ve always used the low pressure sprayer at a manual wash bay and a little elbow grease to finish the job. Your mileage on this method may vary depending on the integrity of the seals of your electrical connectors.

Honestly, the stock airbox is a real hassle to deal with. The only reason you should want to go back to it is if you can find one for cheaper than the intakes I posted. Other than that, an aftermarket intake is easier to work with and gives you more space in the engine bay for other tasks.
I'm planning on the cold air, I had one on my old pt cruiser gt and had a marked improvement on mpg, hp, and acceleration.

The stock air boxes that I'm finding are around $120 to $170 because I would need to replace the hoses as well. So I'd rather just save up a little more and get the cold air.

My engine temps right now are staying within most of ranges I've seen, but what has me concerned is when summer gets here and the daily high will routinely be 115-120F. I'll certainly look into the thermostat.

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I'm planning on the cold air, I had one on my old pt cruiser gt and had a marked improvement on mpg, hp, and acceleration.

The stock air boxes that I'm finding are around $120 to $170 because I would need to replace the hoses as well. So I'd rather just save up a little more and get the cold air.

My engine temps right now are staying within most of ranges I've seen, but what has me concerned is when summer gets here and the daily high will routinely be 115-120F. I'll certainly look into the thermostat.

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Coming from a PT GT as well, you will not see that great of an increase in any of the aforementioned like you did in the PT. But the Sila intake definitely adds character.

On my PT I had the full hardpipe kit by AMX/Needswings, downpipe, stage 1 and diablosport. On my smart Im just running intake and a go pedal.

As far as temperatures, with 110-120 temps last summer, I didn’t notice any overheating, though on occasion it did hit 215-217 range and then the fan brought it back down some.
 

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Coming from a PT GT as well, you will not see that great of an increase in any of the aforementioned like you did in the PT. But the Sila intake definitely adds character.

On my PT I had the full hardpipe kit by AMX/Needswings, downpipe, stage 1 and diablosport. On my smart Im just running intake and a go pedal.

As far as temperatures, with 110-120 temps last summer, I didn’t notice any overheating, though on occasion it did hit 215-217 range and then the fan brought it back down some.
I wasnt expecting the increase like my old gt. Now.... my previous vehicle (still have her, but lots of work to he done to fix her,) a 1996 dodge ram b2500 conversion van that did 0-55 in apx 13 seconds and would hit 60 with a tail wind, it's already a big adjustment for the smart

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New Red SmartMadness Coil Packs.
Here is a picture I took today of my 2009 smart with almost 53,000 miles. I found that without the intake resonator / baffle box, changing the filter in the stock filter box isn't any harder than any other car.
I have a "ram style" ( side scoop over the air intake) K&N stock filter inside the stock air filter box, sila intake tube from the filter box to the throttle body. Solo Performance side exit exhaust.

Looks as if your intake resonator is already gone along with the stock filter box.
You say you want a cold air type system, that would be air from outside the engine bay, which leaves you with plumbing an air filter somewhere in line.
 

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Heck, if you want a really cheap intake fix, you can reuse the janky tubing the previous owner put in and instead reroute it to the intake vent on the left side of the engine bay.

You'll have to find a small enough filter to stick into the hole and some extra material to fully seal it. If you can pull it off (and assuming the tubing the PO used isn't crazy narrow), you could achieve give or take the same end result of an aftermarket intake for a few dollars.

You would essentially be creating Barney O's famous "Low Budget Intake", but without the airbox.

http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/f19/low-budget-intake-26781/
 

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Heck, if you want a really cheap intake fix, you can reuse the janky tubing the previous owner put in and instead reroute it to the intake vent on the left side of the engine bay.

You'll have to find a small enough filter to stick into the hole and some extra material to fully seal it. If you can pull it off (and assuming the tubing the PO used isn't crazy narrow), you could achieve give or take the same end result of an aftermarket intake for a few dollars.

You would essentially be creating Barney O's famous "Low Budget Intake", but without the airbox.

http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/f19/low-budget-intake-26781/
Oh cool! Great idea! Will try that when I get back from gamestop tomorrow (picking up new xbox one if anyone cares.)

I want to resolve this issue as quickly and cheaply as possible...

I may be mistaken on this, but... it seems to me that in addition to the superheated air temp around the exhaust and cat, it is also in a place where road dust, oil, and other detritus will cling to filter... Living in the desert here in Vegas, there is a LOT of oil on the road, heck... just walking across the parking lot at my work has got the oil in the blacktop to turn the white soles of my shoes black/gray.

The filter is black, as is the little cloth baggy that covers it.

I wiped a finger across it... it was originally red.

Not good.

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From your pictures at the dry lake bed, I saw your car has a side air scoop.
That's a 40+ dollar savings and a nice first step in making "ram style" cold air intake.

I also see what could be a solo performance center exit dual exhaust. If that is a Solo that's a $500 stainless steel exhaust.
You have the beginnings of a real nice system already there.
 
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