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Discussion Starter #1
I saved a '13 smart from going to the grave yard and turned it into a trike. But now the computer is giving my a couple problems.

I need someone that can do some reprogramming to get past these bumps.

Since I don't have the front wheels it doesn't have the input on the front speed censers and its putting on the ABS and Traction control. I need to disable these or have it just use the rear inputs.

If you know of someone or a company that can help me. Please let me know

Thank you.
 

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If you're willing to go without ABS and ESP (traction control), remove Fuse 11 and it will be entirely disabled.

Not sure about the speed sensor part though. Read that thread ca_smartone posted! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I pulled fuse #11 and it will drive. But for some reason the shift points are like 2000 rpm's higher. I can put it in manual and paddle shift if or bump the shifter, but it's always telling me I'm in to high of a gear. Oh I have another stock smart so I know what it's supposed to shift at. I don't want to have to do that all the time. Building this for comfort not to work at driving.

Thank you for the suggestion though.
 

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Hmmm...Fuse 11 shouldn't have an impact on shift points. I disable it all the time and never had that issue.

Have you tried the transmission re-teach? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It's a '13 should have the newest shift program. I did it to my '08. Made a big difference. I will keep looking.

Thanks for the suggestion.
 

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It's a '13 should have the newest shift program. I did it to my '08. Made a big difference. I will keep looking.

Thanks for the suggestion.
I'm not talking about the shift program though. :)

A re-teach resets the transmission "learning" programming to factory settings, it might help with the odd shift points.

Apparently the smart transmission is dynamic, it adjusts its shifting to the driver's driving style.

Here's how to reset the teach settings to factory:

> Stop the vehicle in a safe location.
> Move the gear selector lever to park position P.
> Turn off the engine.
> Wait at least 30 seconds before restarting.
> Press the brake pedal.
> Restart the engine. Three bars instead of P appear in the multifunction display.
> Wait at least 30 seconds. The transmission is taught in.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
..what if you mount the front sensor in the rear also???

Jetfuel...just a thought ...
That is one of the things I have tried. But the pulse count is different. So traction control because it thinks one end is sliding.


A re-teach resets the transmission "learning" programming to factory settings, it might help with the odd shift points.

Apparently the smart transmission is dynamic, it adjusts its shifting to the driver's driving style.

Here's how to reset the teach settings to factory:

Quote:
> Stop the vehicle in a safe location.
> Move the gear selector lever to park position P.
> Turn off the engine.
> Wait at least 30 seconds before restarting.
> Press the brake pedal.
> Restart the engine. Three bars instead of P appear in the multifunction display.
> Wait at least 30 seconds. The transmission is taught in.


I will have to try this. Didn't know you could reset this.

Thank you
 

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The shift points are likely screwed up because the ABS control unit processes the wheel speeds to determine the vehicle speed. If the trans does not know how fast the vehicle is going it apparently defaults to higher shift points based on engine speed.
 

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Max Boredom, i'm thinking you have some other issue that is causing the higher shift points as Neon pointed out by removing fuse 11 that should disable ABS & ESP functions and have no impact on tranny shift points...:confused:
However with that said, here is a possible solution... If you still have one of the front wheel hub assemblies peel out the seal on the back side and count the number of balls in the bearing facing you... This will be the number of teeth you will need to make up as a reluctor ring for the front sensors to run off of... Maybe you can put both rear sensors on one side and read from the factory reluctor ring and if the ball count from the front bearing would possibly divide into the tooth count of the other rear reluctor you can grind the appropriate teeth away and mount both front sensors to read from the modified one... If the count doesn't come out equally you can always have a machine shop carve out one to replace the factory ring...:wink:
 

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...nice one Barney...
...for sure.the circumference and spacing of the "trigger/target" of the ring needs to match that of the car so that the amplitude and frequency (volts RMS, Hz) sent by the monopole pick up makes the computer happy....

Jetfuel....thinking out loud...
 

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front wheel sensors

Sorry I didn't see this thread sooner. (Holidays and relatives). From my experience the front pulse count is twice that of the rear. For my trike I made a pulse ring and put both sensors on it. It drives off the front wheel speedometer cable. It works fine then for manual shifting but still doesn't like auto shift especially when turning. The computer thinks one front wheel should be turning faster. The first pulse ring I made had twice as many pulses as I needed and none of the shifting worked right. I originally tried the fuse trick with no luck. I think that disables the abs and esp but the computer still wants that info for the trany. If some one could figure out an electronic way to make a pulse doubler then you could use the back pulse rings. The way I counted the pulses is clean a reluctor ring and dust it with iron powder. Count the dust ridges and divide by two. Each ridge is when a N&S or a S&N meet. It seems to read only when it changes from one way. Either N to S or S to N. N and S are north and south on a magnet. Hope this isn't to disjointed.
 

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Sorry I didn't see this thread sooner. (Holidays and relatives). From my experience the front pulse count is twice that of the rear. For my trike I made a pulse ring and put both sensors on it. It drives off the front wheel speedometer cable. It works fine then for manual shifting but still doesn't like auto shift especially when turning. The computer thinks one front wheel should be turning faster. The first pulse ring I made had twice as many pulses as I needed and none of the shifting worked right. I originally tried the fuse trick with no luck. I think that disables the abs and esp but the computer still wants that info for the trany. If some one could figure out an electronic way to make a pulse doubler then you could use the back pulse rings. The way I counted the pulses is clean a reluctor ring and dust it with iron powder. Count the dust ridges and divide by two. Each ridge is when a N&S or a S&N meet. It seems to read only when it changes from one way. Either N to S or S to N. Hope this isn't to disjointed.
That was interesting and something for thought... The 450's had a reluctor ring on the front bearing hubs just like the rear reluctor rings... The front sensors on a 451 gets it signal from the backside of the wheel bearing from the balls rotating within the back row of the bearing.. This is where things get weird... I don't remember how many notches are on a 451 reluctor ring other than many, say 30+ and in no way would there be near that many balls in the back row of the bearing...
So I guess I don't understand why the front pulse count would be twice that of the rear...
Could you shed some daylight on this???
 

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..ok...I'm confused now...
...is the signal from the front wheel coming from a ring within the ball bearing housing??...it certainly can't come from the ball bearings...if it has a magnetic pick up/sensor/monopole then it can't be the balls in the bearing...it has to be ferrous to trigger the signal and I sure don't think that bearings are magnetic...

Jetfuel....Paul??
 

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Can the pickup be a coil and as each ball passes through the field, it creates a magnetic pulse? It doesn't have to be magnetic, like the wire coils buried in the street and you car passing over it creates a pulse to trigger the light.
 

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..ok...I'm confused now...
...is the signal from the front wheel coming from a ring within the ball bearing housing??...it certainly can't come from the ball bearings...if it has a magnetic pick up/sensor/monopole then it can't be the balls in the bearing...it has to be ferrous to trigger the signal and I sure don't think that bearings are magnetic...

Jetfuel....Paul??
If its a Hall type sensor the reluctor ring does not need to be magnetic.. This is the same kind of sensor used in most engines today to trigger spark from the crankshaft reluctor...
Not sure about an internal ring in the bearing ???
 

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If its a Hall type sensor the reluctor ring does not need to be magnetic.. This is the same kind of sensor used in most engines today to trigger spark from the crankshaft reluctor...
Not sure about an internal ring in the bearing ???
What I said, only better.:D
 
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