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Are the temperature control systems on the 12V cabin battery, or on the traction battery?

If they are on 12V, then a possible range-adding hack, especially during winter, might be to move those range-robbing systems to a hacked lithium-based 12V system, separately charged. The system could be sized based on a few amp measurements, large enough to get you to the end of the potential range on the added batteries.

Anybody know what voltage those systems are using?
 

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The heater core and the air conditioning compressor run on the high-voltage traction battery power. Running a thousands-of watts heater on 12 volts would be highly impractical as it would have to draw hundreds of amps at that voltage - the AC compressor similarly! The heater/AC blower runs on 12 (actually at least 13.2 to be nit-picky) volts, and, like IC engine cars, the heated seats (which use much less energy than an air-heater) are 12 volt. That is why heated seats are so nice an option for efficient winter driving in a EV.

You can always tell what has high voltage in any EV becasue the wires are clad in bright orange.
 

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For winter driving, when I select 'automatic' it turns on the AC, is that normal or should I deselect that? It seems to heat things up pretty quickly but it doesn't seem intuitive to put AC on when it's -5 outside...

Cheers.
 

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The use of AC to dry the air isn't needed. The heating of outside air knocks the humidity way down a defogs/defrosts the windshield fine. I never even has a car with AC for decades and the heater worked fine on the worst days. Most IC engine cars will cycle the AC on an off when using the heat, but I disable it in winter to help the fuel economy a bit.

My Smart does not have any "automatic" setting.
 
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