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Hello, I have been trying to switch all my lights to LED. So far i've done the following:

- Back up lights with Phillips LED (white) Bulb
- Brake/rear turn signal with Sylvania LED (red) Bulb
- Front turn signal with Sylvania LED (amber) Bulb
- Dome light with Phillips 38mm LED (white) light

As you read, i have put good brand bulbs on my car and i thought that On the front and rear turn signals i would not have hyperflashing but i do have it.

I would not like to go to resistors, is there another brand i may use to avoid hyperflashing?

The other concern i have is related with the dome light. Once the switch is in "door" position, after i close the door the light goes off and immediately after it goes back on but very very soft (like 5% of the power) How can I fix that?
 

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Dome light faint glow

The other concern i have is related with the dome light. Once the switch is in "door" position, after i close the door the light goes off and immediately after it goes back on but very very soft (like 5% of the power) How can I fix that?
I did the same thing with our ED's dome light a few years ago and it glows the same way. It shuts off when the car is powered down.

I believe this may be due to the canbus diagnostic signal. It is not sufficient to light up an incandescent bulb, but there is enough forward voltage to allow the more efficient LED to just turn on. This would also explain why it goes dark when the car is powered down. If you added a resistor before the dome light it would act as part of a voltage divider and likely drop the voltage below that sufficient to activate the LED. Check the voltage across the dome light with a meter and your LED forward voltage. That would allow you to size the resistor.

That said, it never really bothered me, and the car has worked fine for three years.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did the same thing with our ED's dome light a few years ago and it glows the same way. It shuts off when the car is powered down.

I believe this may be due to the canbus diagnostic signal. It is not sufficient to light up an incandescent bulb, but there is enough forward voltage to allow the more efficient LED to just turn on. This would also explain why it goes dark when the car is powered down. If you added a resistor before the dome light it would act as part of a voltage divider and likely drop the voltage below that sufficient to activate the LED. Check the voltage across the dome light with a meter and your LED forward voltage. That would allow you to size the resistor.

That said, it never really bothered me, and the car has worked fine for three years.
My car is no ED, i arrived one night, i turned it off, got out of the car and locked it. It still glows... Do i need to wait more minutes to get that light completely off?
 

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The electrical stuff in the 451s (ED vs ICE) is very similar except for the obvious engine differences. Most of the ED specific stuff is run off the optional accessory fuses on the SAM. I don't think the SAM / dome light circuit would be any different.

There is a bit of a delay before it goes black. Next time you're coming in at night give it the lockup and wait a couple of minutes. If it doesn't shut off the its time for some head scratching...
 

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The dome light will not go out, you can come back 12 hours later and it will still be on. This is a known issue with putting an LED bulb in the dome and there are many posts online speaking of this.

I have an led bulb in my dome light and it will not go out and keeps a faint glow like ambient lightning. In winter I turn it out by turning it off manually when leaving the car, because of the cold temps and the added power drain, although tiny it's still a drain. During summer spring/summer I leave it on. I do not worry about the tiny drain, as the car has no additional things to fight with like constant cold temps and I also like the little glow.


My car is no ED, i arrived one night, i turned it off, got out of the car and locked it. It still glows... Do i need to wait more minutes to get that light completely off?
 

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There is alot of info on the LED glow in other threads. I was right in the middle of some of those threads. I added a significant amount of LED's to my dome light circuit. I added a total of 30 LED's to my dome light circuit and that sounds like alot, but it's not in the scheme of things. I bought LED replacement bulbs that had 3 SMD Led's per bulb and there was enough space to add 3 of those soldered together in the dome light, so that accounted for 9. I used 5mm white LED's with the inline reisistor. I put 2 under each front corner, 2 under each rear corner, one under each side mirror, one under each door, 2 in each footwell, 2 on each side of cargo area and one on the ignition switch. Even with the that many that faintly glows after the SAM powers down the circuit, battery drain is minscule. The interior light circuit is controlled by a transistor and that causes a tiny leakage that causes the LED to glow. If you take a multimeter and set it on continuty test and put the leads on an LED it will light the LED. You have the same amount of leakage with just an incandescent bulb, but you never know it because it's not enough to glow the filmament in the bulb. So don't worry about the drain. If it bothers you and you're gonna have the car sitting for a week or more just reach up and flip the dome light switch to the middle position and shut it off. Then flip it back when you get back in the car. When I park my car in the garage at night it lights up like a Cadillac all the way around the car, and it stays lit up just long enough for me to exit the garage. DCO
 

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Think about this carefully guys/(pardon if there are gals). If current is flowing through a LED, then isn't it also going to flow through an incandescent filament? We just don't notice it in the incandescent because it doesn't glow....
 

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It might be that only the rear bulb needs to be incandescent to stop the hyper flashing. (I thought I read that somewhere, and having looked at wiring diagrams it might follow, IIRC...)
 
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