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OK, this is just a thought, have not tried this yet to see if it actually works...

Trying to replace my low beam headlights with LED's, but that would remove my low beams, and leave me with LED's and high beams only...

Here is how to have either LED's or low beams...

First, swap your connectors for high beams and low beams...
Second, put an LED in your high beam socket...
Now you have LED's for DRL's and low beams,
and low beams when high beams are selected.
You have lost high beams...

Looking for major power savings, I have installed an LED dome, and am installing LED side marker and front parking lights...

http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/H7 LED Bulb - 36 High Power LED Daytime Running Light/1583/3660/
 

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I don't know about the headlights. None that I'm aware of (and affordable) are bright enough to serve the purpose.

I have tried replacing the side marker lights with LEDs, and in my case it resulted in hyperflashing of the turn signals.

Parking lights ... no problems. :)


EDIT: DAYum, I've done did it again, accidentally responding in the ED sub-forum. sorry about that. Still, I guess my results should be relevant.
 

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LED's not for night driving...

The LED's DRL's would not be used for night driving,
just daylight.

At night, the low beams would be used...

Did you use CANBus LED's for the turns and side marker lights?
 

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The LED's DRL's would not be used for night driving,
just daylight.

At night, the low beams would be used...

Did you use CANBus LED's for the turns and side marker lights?
Cool, gotcha on the DRL usage. I frequently use my LED fogs for that purpose.

Before your response, I was unaware of CAN bus LEDs. I still know nothing about them. Intelligent LEDs? Yep, new and unfamiliar to me, something I need to research. So, clearly mine are not.

No, mine are plain old dummy LEDs. The LEDs I've got in the rear don't cause any hyperflashing problems, but the fronts and side markers did. I have read where other people have had the problem in the rears. I have no idea why they did and I didn't.
 

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First, swap your connectors for high beams and low beams...
A simpler method may be to simply put the LED bulbs in the high-beam fixtures. Then during the day you can put the high beams on for DRL, and the rest of the time the lights act as normal.

Interesting idea. I have the 2013 ED with DRL though, so not sure it's needed. For my 2008 though it may be nice, though I tend to used the high beams more on that when traveling in the country at night. :p
 

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SuperSmartie beat me to the punch! (SuperSmartie, can you like copy/paste my words here for anyone in this thread that has blocked me?)

A simple drop in bulb will not work. The LED has to have at least 1500 lumens in order for it to even cast out a light that's usable.

And so far, the only kinds of LEDs of such power usually have a heatsink and/or ballast that goes with them. Then, they cost at least $100 anyway. (hence why I haven't tried being a beta tester yet) :eek:

The bulbs you'll find on SuperBrightLEDs shouldn't be used for any more than DRLs and maybe, fog lamps.
 

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SuperSmartie beat me to the punch! (SuperSmartie, can you like copy/paste my words here for anyone in this thread that has blocked me?)

A simple drop in bulb will not work. The LED has to have at least 1500 lumens in order for it to even cast out a light that's usable.

And so far, the only kinds of LEDs of such power usually have a heatsink and/or ballast that goes with them. Then, they cost at least $100 anyway. (hence why I haven't tried being a beta tester yet) :eek:

The bulbs you'll find on SuperBrightLEDs shouldn't be used for any more than DRLs and maybe, fog lamps.
That, and the heatsink at the end of the "real" headlight LEDs is large enough that it won't fit without modification. It's also heavy and may break your headlight assembly over time from the vibration and shocks of driving around.
 

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I'm going to eat my words now. These could work. They're waterproof, so if they do not fit inside the grommets, it's no big deal (the grommets can always be modified). Unless the heat sinks are heavy (they shouldn't be, only an inch long), weight shouldn't be a problem either.

And at 1900 lumens, they're brighter than halogen, but not as blinding as HID.

My only concern would be if they will work in a projector housing (they show a Jeep with reflector housings).

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-headlight-bulbs-conversion-kits/led-headlight-kit-h7-led-headlight-bulbs-conversion-kit/2182/4871/



And since the feds just deposited a very very hefty payment into my account, I might give them a try...
 

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I have to do some measurements first, but I have my finger on the trigger. :)

My rear turn indicator blew, so I thought "What the heck?" and ordered a bunch of LEDs to convert the entire car over.

And I got every bulb (except low/high beam and fogs) for a total of $39. Every bulb that needs to be CANBUS is a CANBUS bulb too.
 

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Let us know how your turn signals work out. The LEDs I have on the rear cause no problems. I haven't tried the front turns yet, but the side marker bulbs caused hyperflashing ... which discouraged me from trying the front turns.

Other folks have reported problems with the rear but not the front, go figure.

I kinda wonder about the units you've bought at that price. My fogs alone cost almost that much.
 

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The ones that blink have a CANBUS chip, so we'll see.

As for why so cheap? I did what Uptown Dog and Smart Madness do for some of their LEDs, I bought them from eBay.

I know what I'm looking for, so I can cut the middleman and go straight to the source.
 

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These could work.
How could they possibly give the right beam pattern?

The stock H7 bulb has an axial filament with 360 degrees radial light emission. This LED has at most two LED die (one on either side) that radiate in those two directions. Best case, they each have 90 degree wide beams, so you get about half the area covered as with the H7 bulb. The gaps will show up as dark regions in the beam.

Don't spend your hard-earned tax refund on this junk!


This type of LED bulb might work to replace the low beam of an H4, because that has filament shield reducing the light emission to about 160 degrees radially.
 

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No need to yell, that's why I said "could work". I think out loud, so people with more knowledge than me can send their input. :)

A lot of these drop in LEDs use mirrors or are dependent on the design of reflector housings to make up for the lack of additional dies.

SuperBrightLEDs is a trustworthy site, the problem is if that particular unit will work with our projectors, or just the stone age reflectors that are shown.
 

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I'm going to eat my words now. These could work. They're waterproof, so if they do not fit inside the grommets, it's no big deal (the grommets can always be modified). Unless the heat sinks are heavy (they shouldn't be, only an inch long), weight shouldn't be a problem either.

And at 1900 lumens, they're brighter than halogen, but not as blinding as HID.

My only concern would be if they will work in a projector housing (they show a Jeep with reflector housings).

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-headlight-bulbs-conversion-kits/led-headlight-kit-h7-led-headlight-bulbs-conversion-kit/2182/4871/



And since the feds just deposited a very very hefty payment into my account, I might give them a try...

The Retrofit Source has something similar that appears to be of a better design. They're also brighter. But, they caution that they're not for low beam use. Just a thought.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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That's because like aftermarket HIDs, they aren't DOT approved. So you don't know what to expect when using them in your car. They could work, they could be a complete waste of money, or even blind every human in sight!
 

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That, and the heatsink at the end of the "real" headlight LEDs is large enough that it won't fit without modification.
True, but that can be fixed by changing the cover. You don't want to cover the heat sink anyway.

It's also heavy and may break your headlight assembly over time from the vibration and shocks of driving around.
This is sometimes true. Good sets will have reasonable balance, and are actually less front-heavy, meaning they'll have less swing when hitting bumps. Least we forget, glass is not the lightest material. I had one set of normal H7 break in the ICE a couple years back. It was a PITA getting the fragments out of the assembly.

How could they possibly give the right beam pattern?
You can, simply because the LED has more than a 90° output as you seem to assume in your post. These are specifically designed for use as filliment replacements. They have a lens over the LED that spreads the output about 180°+, and have one on each side of the stick.

The gaps will show up as dark regions in the beam.
I can tell you I put a set very similar to this into my ED over 6 months ago. I tested exactly this out, before, mid-change, and after. (Mid change was with one LED and one regular H7 in.) I drove up my drive right up to the garage door at about 2mph, watching both beam patterns for the full duration. Both were nearly identical, there were no missing regions, and the light from the LED was slightly brighter and bluer than the H7. (The H7 were only about a few months old, so they went into a box and became spares when the ICE smart needed a new set.)

LED has made it to the point that you CAN in fact use them for standard drive beams. The only down side is having to re-fab the seal, if the set you get isn't waterproof. My set has the LED control circuitry on the unit, all pre-sealed, so no real need, though I did it anyway.

I've really liked my set. I do have to say though that the blues do tend to pop a little more with LED lights. And if you switch back to normal H7, you notice a huge difference in both color and brightness. I just drove the ICE at night for the first time in months this past weekend, and was again shocked at how different it was brightness/color wise. Though they may need to be replaced soon...

I left the regular H7 in the high beams as "backup", but over 6 months I've only had to use them once or twice, at times/places I would have normally had to use them anyway.
 
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