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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I'm currently in the process of my swap from one to the other. I'm considering "lifting" the smart.

Does anyone have any first hand feedback on the Daystar kit?

I was looking at the certain components and in the front... is it possible to just clamp the hub/brake assembly say 1-2" lower on the strut leg?

This will ultimately lift the car correct?

Then just throw some body spacers on the rear subframe with longer bolts?

Instead of $350 it'd be like .. nothing.

Forgive me if I'm missing something really obvious cuz its been a long cold weekend working on this!
 

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You would need to lower the front cross member also...If you slide the hub assm. down on the strut there is no attachment bolt to lock it from slipping back up... Would be simpler just to make spacers for the upper mounting point of the struts...will need longer shocks for rear... Including hardware, spacers and shocks, your "nothing" has turned into "costing some"...
 

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You would need to lower the front cross member also...If you slide the hub assm. down on the strut there is no attachment bolt to lock it from slipping back up... Would be simpler just to make spacers for the upper mounting point of the struts...will need longer shocks for rear... Including hardware, spacers and shocks, your "nothing" has turned into "costing some"...
Sounds like many of the components included in Daystar"s lift kit...don't forget the steering extension also. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You would need to lower the front cross member also...If you slide the hub assm. down on the strut there is no attachment bolt to lock it from slipping back up... Would be simpler just to make spacers for the upper mounting point of the struts...will need longer shocks for rear... Including hardware, spacers and shocks, your "nothing" has turned into "costing some"...
Well like I said I was just looking at it, after a long weekend. Now I don't have it in front of me but wasn't it a "clamp" style that went onto the strut.

Why can't you loosen it, move it down re-clamp it? Now why do you have to lower the front cross member? a 1-2" drop on the struts is to "extreme" you think for the a-arms?

For the rear, again only had it out once and it just sits there. but I have the whole entire subframe motor out. which is just like a truck body and frame essentially. Why not throw a little spacer with longer bolts between unibody (tridion cell) and the subframe motor housing?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sounds like many of the components included in Daystar"s lift kit...don't forget the steering extension also. :)
See steering column shaft is left untouched if I don't touch the front crossmember.


Now don't get me wrong is it "easier" to just buy a Daystar .. sure of course

but thats not how I roll, if I can help it. My wallet says "think"
 

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No, not intended to be sarcastic. I don't have any experience in smart chassis/suspension mods.
That being said, the advice offered by Barney O was from a guy who probably has the most modification experience and resources for smarts, and otherwise, that you'll find in these forums. Experience tells me that you can take his advice to the bank. He's most likely "been there and done that".

You may find that your ideas will work out fine, and I truly hope they do.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No, not intended to be sarcastic. I don't have any experience in smart chassis/suspension mods.
That being said, the advice offered by Barney O was from a guy who probably has the most modification experience and resources for smarts, and otherwise, that you'll find in these forums. Experience tells me that you can take his advice to the bank. He's most likely "been there and done that".

You may find that your ideas will work out fine, and I truly hope they do.:)
Yea I have no doubt that his information is solid, I wasn't sure lol some people will set you up for failure! I would just like to put together a rally esque smart and fitting larger tires would be part of that.

Thanks and if I go that route I'll shoot some pics up
 

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Bruce, I stand corrected on the longer rear shocks, I forgot the shocks were attached to the sub frame and not the body at the top...I work on too many different brands...
Anyhow, the reason to drop the front cross member will keep all the suspension and steering geometry correct...
There is a tab welded to the body of the strut that positions the hub assembly and holds it from slipping...
Most likely could beat the price of the Daystar kit providing you have access to a machine shop to make the spacers for nothing and finding those extra long alloy metric bolts for free...
Otherwise, I have found its sometimes better to go with an existing kit that someone has already engineered to fit and work...
Don't want ya to fail...
 
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