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Being fairly new to Smarts, these wedges reduce the rear camber? With the stock suspension on my ED, I have about -1.8 degrees camber on both rears, which combined with the very low toe-in, should be a very good setting for both tire wear and rear grip.
 

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A lot of the "reduced tire wear" comments are just hoping that's what happens IMHO. Might make a difference with the rear BRABUS 17s, but not so much with the stock tires. So many variables involved it's hard to pin down one thing that causes tire wear, again IMHO. :)
 

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A lot of the "reduced tire wear" comments are just hoping that's what happens IMHO. Might make a difference with the rear BRABUS 17s, but not so much with the stock tires. So many variables involved it's hard to pin down one thing that causes tire wear, again IMHO. :)
This is my first car with a deDion rear suspension so it's been a learning curve for me. But typically with an independent rear suspension, the camber curve as the suspension compressed shows increasing negative camber. The deDion is supposed to hold both rear wheels parallel to each other and both wheels flat on the ground under most circumstances, so there's no camber change with suspension movements and what you need the negative camber for is to keep the tread flat as the sidewall flexes. My stock suspension shows -1.8 degrees camber, which combined with the fairly flexy sidewalls of my 175/55's, seems about right. That much negative camber combined with a wider, stiffer tire on a larger rim with a shorter sidewall, may be a bit too much for this type of suspension, but I can't find much information online to know for sure.

I've only got 2000 miles but rear tire wear seems good and even for my driving style (which is pretty aggressive).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The problem foe me is that with the 17's Im wearing through the inner shoulders of the rear tires. I may just end up putting 15's on all around. It also probably doesn't help that I'm 6'5 and 300 lbs. Im sure it causes extra suspension sag and increases the camber.
 

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The way the deDion rear suspension works, suspension movement doesn't alter the camber that is presented by both wheels to the ground. In essence, the rear wheels are fixed in relation to each other and the entire fixed assembly moves in response to the ground and to the car. So whether you have 100 or 300 pounds added to the car, the rear camber stays the same.

I have something like -1.8 degrees of camber at the back. On my (sold) Miata, I ran -2 degrees in the back. This did not create any inner shoulder wear as long as toe was in spec. I ran 1/16" toe in at each rear wheel, and I think my Smart has around 1/10" in at each rear wheel. These should result in basically zero dynamic toe under power and then not wear the tires abnormally at all.

So it might be worth it to get a check and see what your alignment specs actually are.
 

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Does anyone have a picture of these wedges ? I have access to someone who can machine anything .
I would think, you’d need the technical drawings, for the wedges. Not sure just photos would do. Angles, the size, materials.
I guess your machine shop, could experiment with prototypes. Like Paul did.

Why not Contact Barnes machine shop. I believe their still around. Paul’s a nice guy. He might share those, maybe even make you some.

I still have his old business card.

Barnes Machine shop
209 N.Pine St.
Shelbyville Illinois
Phone 217-774-5308
 

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I own a 2015 Brabus with 17' rear wheels. There is an excess of rear camber (stock setting) The inside edges (3"-4" wide) wears out completely to thread bare in 12-15,000 miles.


Believe me, I am on my outside sidewall every chance I get (left or right). The tires are almost is never flat & level to the pavement. I have followed my daughter through canyons and these Brabus cars look like this always, no difference if it is going straight or rolling on it's sidewalls!
 

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I did the washer mod on my 451, no more negative camber!
Was not too hard to do, the washers need to be about the thickness of a quarter.
What are the results from the mod?

I currently have 205/40 17 on rear, Hankook ventus V2 which replaced Yokohama 195/40 17 S drives. The Hankook is a rounder tire then the Yokohama. I still have the 195/40 17 Yokos up front and the Yoko actually leave a wider footprint being so flat so i feel i will get less inside cupping on the Hankooks in the rear. My next change will be the 205/40 17 Hankooks up front and 215/45 17 Hankook ventus 2 in the rear.



I own a 2015 Brabus with 17' rear wheels. There is an excess of rear camber (stock setting) The inside edges (3"-4" wide) wears out completely to thread bare in 12-15,000 miles.


Believe me, I am on my outside sidewall every chance I get (left or right). The tires are almost is never flat & level to the pavement. I have followed my daughter through canyons and these Brabus cars look like this always, no difference if it is going straight or rolling on it's sidewalls!
As the next super road trip I have in mind is to get my Smart out West and drive the Pacific coast highway north to south, I am interested in knowing what this washer mod did or didn't do to the feel of the car. If its a case of wear and tear vs road feel, for the Pacific Coast Highway run I would go with better feel.

NW453 ......
.....do you think this would improve your canyon runs or just save the tire life and worsen the canyon run feel. When you are cutting the canyons with the wheel on the side wall ...... what is the other wheel on the opposite side doing? And how would the adjustment effect that tires' action, for better or worse?
 
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