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Oh, well, I am specifically looking for help in how I should approach removal of this cursed resonator without beating it to death with a pick ax or something and especially not raising my blood pressure to the level of the Seattle Space Needle. My old arthritic hands and big mits don't do well in tight spaces and neither does my sweet dispositon. :)
I would not recommend you remove the resonator until and unless you have a replacement air intake hose in hand. The resonator can be removed intact but as best I remember I removed the brackets for it on the cylinder head and the transmission to allow it to be rotated in such an orientation so as to be able to remove it. It is a very tight fit and it will scrape the sides of the engine compartment opening but it can be done. It is so problematic as to be not worth the effort to try to reinstall it.
 

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Well, it was an interesting day of parts searching to put all of the pieces together. Unfortunately, no one place had everything and I have yet to find some of the parts. I was able to locate the DAYCO lower hose, but was stumped when the parts lady at AutoZone insisted that I explain which of the three engines she had listed in her computer that I needed if for on the Dakota truck. How the heck would I know? Any rate, she finally looked up the 71593 number and located it for me..

Parts List
1 - DAYCO hose # 71593 fits 92'-96' Dodge Dakota lower hose $14.69
4 - Hose clamps @ 1.23 $4.92

AutoZone and O'Reilly didn't have such on these exhaust tubbing parts.
1 - 1 7/8" O.D. x 1 3/4" I.D. x 1 1/8" long Exhaust Tubing $2.00

The guy at O'Reilly had this gas line, but could not find it located in the store, as they had misplaced it. He sent me across town and I ran into the same problem at their other store, but after a 30 minute search they did finally locate it for me.

22" - 7/16" I.D. Gas Line & 2 hose clamps $4.10

Neither store had this part in stock and could not locate it at all. I have not checked at Lowe's or Home Depot. Does it have a threaded end to it?

1 - 7/16" Hose Barb Fitting $4.00

I tried to remove the plastic monster once again today and ran into the same exact problem. Whomever installed it at the factory sure didn't want it to ever be removed it appears. I tried the trick of moving it forward like a shelf and no go to that at all. Tried prying it a bit forward with a large screwdriver and no luck in that, either. Looks like the cutting tool will be the next option. :-(

I found a connector, part #548529 , that is 1 3/4" ID on both ends and an adaptor which is 2" ID X 1 7/8" OD. Would either of them work for this mod? Seems like the first one would when cut.

*** Big question on the hose. Is it supposed to be cut in half at the dead center mark of the hose length? Here is what it looks like:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/16952867857/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/16952867697/
 

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Interesting, basically the parts for my Low Budget Intake came from a hardware store. It doesn't need to be made from auto parts, it just needs to work. :)
 

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I did finally defeat the big black monster last night. I totally gave up on pushing, pulling, wedging, cursing and so forth in trying to remove it and finally went to using a hack saw, instead. It still required a bit of tugging to get it to dislodge and finally exit from my engine bay area.

I was so very concentrated in sawing therough the snout area that I didn't notice the top of my large hack saw was actually nocking off pieces of that foam cover that is attached to the carpeting over the cargo area. My car is a 2010, so I suspect the foam insulation is somewhat old and begining to rot a bit. Is there a patch, other than duct tape being my friend, for this foam covering when it crumbles or cracks? I was thinking of using one of those aluminum looking sun shaded and cutting it down to the basic size of the engine cover foam and gluing it into place with 3M adhesive spray. Anyone else have this happento them and have to repair or replace the foam piece there?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/16548638864/in/set-72157651433560220

https://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/17171005465/in/set-72157651433560220

https://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/17171005535/in/set-72157651433560220

https://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/17171005755/in/set-72157651433560220/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/17171005855/in/set-72157651433560220/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/16963834417/in/set-72157651433560220

In this photo, I have not cut the hose at this time. I'll ask once again, is this hose cut dead center or off-center to have the adaptor put between the two places in the hose? I didn't want to cut it at the center and then have a problem with the bend making one piece tend too collapse at all when joined to the other. You know, when the two pieces are spun about and joined together. I have a 1/2" hose barb to use in the box area and clamped onto the metal tube. I'll put it into place tomorrow.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/16963834877/in/set-72157651433560220/

It sure allows more space back there with that big black monster gone. Makes it easier to do an air filter change.
 

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That's ashamed that you cut the foam insulation under the carpet. You would have to remove both seats and the console and order a new carpet, which is one piece.
To try and patch it up, I would get some rubber cement or a similar adhesive product, and see if you can bond the torn pieces of foam insulation together.
 

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No, the torn pieces were miniscule in size and no way to bond them back, as they are all too small. I found a carpet replacement set on Ebay, but I believe I can come up with something besides just replacement of the entire carpet piece.
The foam is old enough that it tears or crumbles away very easily and would have eventually crumbled, anyway, I suspect. I don't believe duct tape will work effectively though, but maybe if it were coated with the 3M adhesive first. I'll keep looking for a repair solution. Not sure if sound deadening material may work or not. Maybe some insulation from a lumber supplyer that is the aluminum stuff for duct work or such.
 

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I decided to do this mod a bit differently today. I had an old John Deere hose laying about from a mod I had previously done to my Ural sidecar rig. It is ribbed and much more flexible than the original mod here, but I wanted to see if it would work the same or not.

The B35601 Johne Deere hose runs about $12 bucks for a hose that is really in no need to be trimmed down for this mod, but it can be if one wanted to do that. I first trimmed off two of the plastic fins to the top of the air box so that the hose there would not interfere with the main hose when putting on a clamp and tightening it down at the hose bib. I picked up a 1/2" hose bib at Lowe's, in their Plumbing Department. I also picked up a pair of Reducing washers to use on the top of the air box, where the hose big was pushed into place there. Part # 49301 3/4"-1/2" in size. I got these in the Electrical Department at Lowe's. I used a faucet lock washer to tighten the hose bib from inside the top plastic piece. I got this in the Plumbing Department at Lowe's. In drilling out the hole for my hose bib, I used a 3/4" spade bit, but I had to enlarge the final hole just a smidge with a step bit to allow the hose barb bas to fit into the new hole in the plastic air box lid securely. I used some smaller hose clamps from MasterPro that are supposed to have removable keys to secure the smaller hose. I got them at AutoZone. The larger ones were 15/16"-2 1/4" in size. I found I could tighten them securely witout removal of the yellow keys.

I then drove for several miles to ensure the car was working well and no additonal road noise was noted. Cleans up the engine bay and allows for easier air filter removal in the future. I have a sun shade cover for my windshield and I am thikin gof trimming it down to put over the metal cover to the engine bay for noise reduction as a potential mod in the future. I had torn some of the foam beneath the carpeting and I thought this may be glued into that area to cover up the torn foam area there.

Note, the hose ends for the John Deere hose are slightly larger than the carb fitting or the plastic air box fitting. They are easy to fold over in this area and when tightened down with a hose clamp do not leak in the least.

Here are some photos:

Just a different way of doing the mod:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/17000025370/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/17201045605/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/17174966026/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/17012333219/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/17013439658/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/16993685347/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/17013439908/

Hope this explains it well enough. No problems at all noticed at present. No increase in engine noise noted. Rides with pleanty of power and no noticible difference to much at this point. As I put some mileage on the car, I may be able to note any significant changes. Easy to do mod.
 

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That's exactly how mine is, except yours had more engineering behind it. :)
Looks great.
 

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I did the mod the way it was listed in the original post, first. The old John Deere hose idea kept bugging me, so I decided to give it a try to see if it worked or not. So far it does, so I put away the first mod components as a back up for any future problems. Gyro Gearloose and Professor Peabody has nothing on me, huh? :)
 

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Not sure if it is final or not. Will do some testing in that regard to see how it works or does not. That is the reason I kept the original mod.

Just to note:

This is exactly the same mod I had done on the boxer motor of my '05 Troyka, back in early '06. No sludge, no stagnant oil buildup inside the tubes, no problems in power, no need for changing either of the John Deere hoses out over heavy off-road and on-road use of the bike and high mileage at variable speeds. Essentially no problems noted with the use of the John Deere hoses on that rig at all, so far. Although each vehicle may offer different with the end results, I am sort of thinking that this mod on my Smartie won't be much different than it was on my Troyka. None the less, I will do the testing with real world driving and check to see how it's results work out or not. Just an experiment for me and I had the parts readily available, anyway.
 
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