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Here's a research project for someone. For those of us that want to change our own oil we should also change the filter. The Mitsubishi oil filter number is 1230A040. Can someone find a FRAM, Purolator, etc. part number so we don't have to go the whole way back to the dealer for an oil filter.

Thanks in advance.
 

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I tried NAPA, Autozone, and CarQuest locally. They can't reference the number. But it is now a common spin-on filter, and with one in hand you can probably match it or come very close to it by comparing diameter and depth. My own plan of action when I finally receive my car is to get an additional filter at delivery (I then have one in hand), and change the oil and filter at 100 miles. Hopefully, the car will be delivered with fossil oil which I would use during a 5000 mile break-in period, then change oil and filter again and continue with full synthetic. It is possible that I may be disappointed as I believe the Gen Is had full synthetic specified from the outset.
 

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Lots of stuff we don't know that should eventually end up in the FAQ section (what's happening with that?) Filter numbers, bulbs, etc. All should be in the owners manual - which we don't have yet. I have a feeling it's going to be awhile before the aftermarket world catches up with the 451. Wonder if the Canadian dealers have all this info already?

fish, I agree on the 100 mile change but plan to switch to Mobil 1 at that point and keep going. A magnetic drain plug would be nice also if we can find one.
 

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I think we are going to find that "evilution" will remain focused on the Gen I 450 (which uses an entirely different oil filter setup). It looks like "FQ101": http://www.fq101.co.uk/ will become our best English-speaking overseas technical guidance for the Gen II 451s.

My reason for hoping to use fossil oil for 5k is it will give the lower end a good, smooth wear-in for best performance and mileage. It is difficult to break-in an engine on synthetic.
 

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Dave...
I don't think any of that applies to the 451 US version as it already has a spin-on filter and a base built into the block....:) I might be wrong but I seem to remember that from the Road tour.
Yeah, you are correct. I didn't catch that untill I looked at it more carefully. Looking at the adapter, you can seed the threads on the outside of the adapter where it screws into the cap placement of the old filter cover.
 

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It is difficult to break-in an engine on synthetic.
Well, I don't know about other engines but I've broken in 3 C5 Corvette engines with Mobil 1 and have had no problems/issues. Not trying to start an argument, just passing on personal experience with those cars/engines. :)
 

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"My reason for hoping to use fossil oil for 5k is it will give the lower end a good, smooth wear-in for best performance and mileage. It is difficult to break-in an engine on synthetic." A lot of "top end" manufactures now introduce their models with Mobil 1 Synthetic already installed...something to consider.
 

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Could be; it is just that we found with the competition Caterham crossflows and twin-cams that we got a more consistant break-in across all the rotating components with a first dose of fossil. 5K is a bit of miles, but I would put the second oil change at that point for a street car. The Caterhams actually got the change-over after the first internal inspection at about 500.
 

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I have been building, rebuilding, and racing for 3 decades now... I fully agree with fishrdnc on this... TheAlmostInvisibleMan (TAIM) at Smartmainia got a new 451 and said it came from factory with full synthetic oil

I intend to change it out for dino juice first day and then do my personal break in procedure....my method is NOT miles dependent but a hot cold hot cycling process

If you are not an anal motor head, you can just do as the factory owners manual recommends... many motors these days see some run in time on a dyno after the build up to fully seat the rings and wear in the cams... a couple of companies actually re torque many areas after the dyno run... go figure... perhaps they finally got tired of warranty repairs...
 

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....my method is NOT miles dependent but a hot cold hot cycling process
Back in the days when car buyers were expected to be involved with their new purchases (beyond finding the iPod jack), they identified a "break-in" period (typically, the first 300 miles). An important aspect of the recommended break-in was driving at varying speeds and loads, not just at some constant speed.
 

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Back in the days when car buyers were expected to be involved with their new purchases (beyond finding the iPod jack), they identified a "break-in" period (typically, the first 300 miles). An important aspect of the recommended break-in was driving at varying speeds and loads, not just at some constant speed.
I got break-in advice for my S-2000 directly from a Honda R & D engineer/friend/colleague from Japan who KNOWS engines....theirs, anyway. He told me to absolutely NOT lug the engine, EVER, for the first 600 miles, opt to keep the rpm's at higher levels rather than lower ones (to stretch the rods properly) in fact other than when idling at a light, keep rpm's over 3000 rpm but not over 6000 until 600 miles has elapsed. Ofcourse, the S-2000 engine is a 8900rpm engine so that level of rpm is relative. He even recommended, while traveling down an interstate, to stay within the speed limit, leave the transmission in 5th rather than 6th to keep those rpm's up but only do that for several mile stretches and NOT at a constant operating point...always keep varying the rpm's slightly.
Well, I broke it in that way and the engine is really a SCREAMER and always has been since I've had it. Uses about 1/2 qt of oil in 3000 miles which is good. I've used 5W-30 in it since new....Castrol.
This was Fish's basic advice pretty much....vary load and speed.
So I'll probably use this technique with the Smart as well since it worked good for me on the S-2000...the only things different, ofcourse, are the rpm levels....and the horsepower :D CAn you imagine 240hp in a Smart!!!!!!!:eek:
Fun, Fun, Fun!!
 

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I too am in the "don't lug it" and "varying speed 'n RPM" camp.

I like to load the motor fairly aggressivly on take off, but feather the throttle to not go over 3000~3500 rpm for a few heat cycles.... I do a lot of short trips out and around over my local terrain, hwy, and stop n go small town...basically get her up to full operating temp with fairly long cool down before repeating. I forbid steady RPM or Cruis Control for first 250~500 as well as no "tow or haul" loads
 

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Jus' 'Tween Me n' FREDVON4

Fred, I think you will be able to cast your mind back to balmier days. Bet you have done these yourself. My break-in courses will include Merrimack Trail (Rt 143) to NWS Yorktown, or Pocahontas Trail (Rt 60) to Eustis, and especially the 25 mile Colonial Parkway (Yorktown-to-Jamestown), with "hometown" right in the middle.
 
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