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Discussion Starter #1
So last I did this (cant find the thread) i removed the rear bumper in order to weld in a new flex pipe. Now I sold that 07 451 and got a 2010. Same issue of course. Any info on whether removing the rear clip is easier than just the rear bumper?
A pain to do in the NYC rain & snow since the plastic is so much more brittle and unforgiving.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK BIG NEWS. Just took smarty to a local guy who did the whole flex pipe repair with NO BODYWORK REMOVAL!. I spent HOURS removing the bodywork last time. Wow this is great. 3hrs later the job was DONE! LMK if you want details. Total bill was $250 (parts & labor)
 

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If you're having troubles with the flex pipe failing, check your motor mounts.
Removing the rear clip isn't that hard and shouldn't really take that long. Another alternative is to remove the rear valance and inner wheel well covers then lower the assembly with the lowering bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Are the motor mounts rubber and commonly perishable? You mean lower the motor assembly? Thanks for the info.
 

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Are the motor mounts rubber and commonly perishable? You mean lower the motor assembly? Thanks for the info.
They are rubber and they do indeed perish after some years. I changed the ones in my 2010 when I got it, no idea how long they had been shot as a lot of times people keep on going with worn out mounts, not knowing any better. There are 3 motor mounts, one on each side that attach to the subframe above each of the rear wheels and a third "dog bone" mount at the front of the subframe.

I looked and it seems I took absolutely no pictures of the motor mounts somehow, but I documented the part numbers in this post. Weirdly, I don't have a car disassembled at the moment so I can't even offer to take some pitcures now. I'm sure a search of the forums should yield some images, but if you can't find any let me know and if the weather isn't unbearable I'll go take some as I need to get back into the 2010 anyhow (I'm waiting for something approximating merely freezing temperatures)

Edit: I've heard it claimed that they can be changed without lowering the subframe. I've said this so many times I feel like a broken record, but if you expect to do any significant work on a Smart, do get yourself a set of lowering bolts / record release bolts (Part # 450 589 00 62 00). If you shop around you can get a set for a little under $80.00. You might feel that's expensive for a set of bolts, specs are here on the forum (or ask and I'll dig them up), but the first time you do something without bashing knuckles or spending 4 hours trying to work in the tiny space available without them you'll think that $80.00 was a small price to pay for such a convenience.

65545


See all that space? Worth every penny. (BTW, that black blob behind the shock is a motor mount, another opposite it you can't see here (I did find an image of one))
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Saw some utube vids on the sila bms motor mounts. Any opinions? Also is it usually the lower motor mount to replace or all 3?
 

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The motor mount in the photo can be replaced from the top; however, it requires removing the resonator to get to the bolts. Worth doing if you plan on also installing one of those silicone intake tubes... :)
 

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Saw some utube vids on the sila bms motor mounts. Any opinions? Also is it usually the lower motor mount to replace or all 3?
It all depends on moneyover time, but I tend to think that my time has some value and while I might save even a couple hundred dollars doing the change 3 separate times, the convenience of doing it just once and being done with it for a while is worth the expense. It seems to me that if one is worn out, the others are likely not far behind.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So yes gtdump, the bottom motor mount has been replaced. The old one was junk at 81k miles. Really feel the difference.
 
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