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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 451 2008 Fortwo Passion, it suddenly stalled with the "3 bars of death" several months ago. Despite clearing codes it repeatedly gets:
P0886 Relay 'N10/10k9 (Automated manual transmission relay) does not switch
P0805 Clutch system fault
P1800 Implausible transmission data

I have tried all of the "re-learn" techniques I could find online to no avail, and today swapped in a low mileage clutch actuator which I bought from a car being parted out, but still no functionality.

Checking live data it shows:
12.69V for 041 Voltage at component 'N10/10k9 (Automated manual transmission relay)'
0V for 041 Voltage at component 'N10/10k9 (Automated manual transmission relay)' (Output)

Does anyone know the location of this relay in the car? I struck out searching Evilution.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
If anyone is keeping score, I have only had a few chances to dig into this lately. When I posted the above info it was not making ANY noise from the transmission area at all when shifting the gear selector or when first turning the key on (and getting the aforementioned fault codes every time). I found two relays next to the SAM box under the dash, and one of them appeared to be flaky (intermittently would not switch unless you were pressing sideways on the terminal). I replaced both relays with generic Bosch format relays, and now I can hear a whine from the shift motor when I first turn on the key, and again if I shift from Park to Reverse. Now the only fault is:
P1800 Implausible transmission data

One additional item - the used clutch actuator had its "piston" portion fully extended (as was the one I removed), which meant having to apply significant force to get it into place. All of the photos of new replacement actuators appear to show that piston compressed into the body of the actuator. I read one post where a guy removed the cover and used a lever to crank the actuator over-center and have it in the compressed position for installation. I tried the same thing, but so far that actuator has not moved at all. When first turning on the key it sounds like the actuator very briefly energizes but does not move. Do I need to pop the actuator back to where the piston portion is sticking out, and just force it into place?

The shift motor sounds like a stalled motor (it does not sound like any of the gears are turning, only the whine of a current being applied to the windings). Has anyone else seen these issues?

I just bought another Smart car (2012 with 34k miles), I can definitely hear both the clutch actuator and shift motor moving when the engine is off. My next plan is to swap in a shift motor I bought off of a used car, but I would appreciate any input.
 

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If you're ambitious and careful, pull the shift motors out and carefully pull the steel motor caps off the ends and see how much carbon buildup there is. Mine is a 2008 and the brushes in mine were worn down to mere nubs and it was causing a number of codes.

Here's my thread so you'll have an idea of what's involved:

That said, the errors I was getting were not the ones you are seeing, not saying the shift motors aren't to blame, but yours seems to indicate issues with the clutch actuator. The problem could also be in the wiring harness. Have you checked the connections to the TCU under the driver's seat? (don't forget to unplug the battery and wait a while before removing the seats, you don't want airbag issues)

The only clutch actuator I have handled (mine) was in the retracted position.

They can definitely be frustrating to diagnose.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If you're ambitious and careful, pull the shift motors out and carefully pull the steel motor caps off the ends and see how much carbon buildup there is. Mine is a 2008 and the brushes in mine were worn down to mere nubs and it was causing a number of codes.

Here's my thread so you'll have an idea of what's involved:

That said, the errors I was getting were not the ones you are seeing, not saying the shift motors aren't to blame, but yours seems to indicate issues with the clutch actuator. The problem could also be in the wiring harness. Have you checked the connections to the TCU under the driver's seat? (don't forget to unplug the battery and wait a while before removing the seats, you don't want airbag issues)

The only clutch actuator I have handled (mine) was in the retracted position.

They can definitely be frustrating to diagnose.
Thanks! I will likely swap in the used shift motors and tear down the original. This car has 155k miles, so I would expect it to have completely worn brushes.
 
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