Need help/advice with clutch actuator maintenance/adjustment

1088 Views 15 Replies 5 Participants Last post by SailorJohn70, 3 mo ago

SailorJohn70

Discussion Starter · 3 mo ago

3

A few days ago my SMART started having issues with dropping out of gear and giving me the P0805 (Clutch Actuator Position Sensor) code. After reading the sticky posts on maintenance and adjustment of the clutch actuator I figured I'd give both a try. (It took me longer to get the car up on jack stands than to find and remove the actuator.)

Anyways, I do not see any kind of adjustment bolt. I did scribe heavy lines on the right (passenger side) of where the actuator mounts. When I got all three mounting screws loose the actuator jumped to the left (driver's side) about 1/4 inch (6mm since we are talking about a metric car).

When I got the plate off the actuator I was surprised at how clean it looked and am wondering if I should just leave the insides alone and replace the actuator and slide it a little to the left (driver's side) of where it was. Also how far left should I move it from the original position? Should I just move it to where the piston just engages the pall (clutch fork)?

Here are some pics of the inside of the actuator:

Crankset Bicycle chain Automotive tire Bicycle part Rim

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gas Engineering Machine

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire Grille

The car currently has about 121K miles, three years ago at 109K we had a used engine put in it by Aristocrat Motors in Olathe Kansas (Mercedes/Smart Dealer). They did such a shade tree mechanic hack job mounting the engine mounts to the used engine that I don't want to trust any Smart Authorized Service Center again. The Tranny, Clutch, Actuator etc.. are all original (as far as I know).

See less See more

Status: Not open for further replies.

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

DenisW

· #2 · 3 mo ago

First of all, the adjustment is with the slotted holes for the mounting bolts. The correct way to adjust it is described in the PDF link below. However few of us have the measuring tool noted, so what has been found to work well is to use the hash lines provided on the mounting surface. Have the actuator in place with the bolts loose, slide the actuator toward the clutch until you feel it contact the clutch arm, note where any of the hash marks are in relation to the slotted hole, push the actuator in 3 more lines worth and tighten the bolts. Note how that position compares to the line/mark you made before removing it. It should be fairly close, if it is right on then the original adjustment was still good.
It looks like you need to lube the inside with white lithium grease spray, not too much. Search this site for lube clutch actuator, a few member have detailed instructions and pictures. Post back if you have problems.

https://www.evilution.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/smartengine/clutch/actuator/si-si-sx-kupplungsaktuator-11861-en.pdf

Reactions: 1

SailorJohn70

Discussion Starter · #3 · 3 mo ago

Okay I sprayed the insides of the clutch actuator with electronics cleaner (safe for plastics) and let it dry. It was much dirtier than I thought. I then sprayed into all the gears, nooks and crannies as best and lightly as I could with white lithium spray grease and reassembled I reinstalled the actuator making sure to plug in the plug. And set it so that the actuator was in place with the bolts loose, I slid the actuator toward the clutch until I felt it contact the clutch arm, and then pushed the actuator in 3 more lines and tighten the bolts (it seemed to be about 6mm from the original position).

I then tried to start the car and it would not start. I have repositioned the actuator a few times moving it one line closer to the original position each time, and have had it in the original position. When I turn the key to the on position, I can hear the actuator move, but the car does not start when I turn the key to the start position.

I am not getting any codes on my code reader.

The car is up on jack stands. Is there any reason why the car will not start on jack stands?

What do I need to be looking at? (I have checked the plug every time that I repositioned the actuator.)

See less See more

Bob Ricewasser

· #4 · 3 mo ago

SailorJohn70 said:
Okay I sprayed the insides of the clutch actuator with electronics cleaner (safe for plastics) and let it dry. It was much dirtier than I thought. I then sprayed into all the gears, nooks and crannies as best and lightly as I could with white lithium spray grease and reassembled I reinstalled the actuator making sure to plug in the plug. And set it so that the actuator was in place with the bolts loose, I slid the actuator toward the clutch until I felt it contact the clutch arm, and then pushed the actuator in 3 more lines and tighten the bolts (it seemed to be about 6mm from the original position).

I then tried to start the car and it would not start. I have repositioned the actuator a few times moving it one line closer to the original position each time, and have had it in the original position. When I turn the key to the on position, I can hear the actuator move, but the car does not start when I turn the key to the start position.

I am not getting any codes on my code reader.

The car is up on jack stands. Is there any reason why the car will not start on jack stands?

What do I need to be looking at? (I have checked the plug every time that I repositioned the actuator.)

I would try the transmission "teach-in" procedure first. Turn the key to on, engine off with foot on the brake. Slowly move the gear selector to reverse, neutral, drive, and then slowly back to park, stopping momentarily at each detent of the gear selector. Turn the key to off and then try and start the engine. Hopefully, this will solve your no crank, no start concern. I have seen a few clutch actuators where the tip on the rod that contacts the clutch arm has broken off. Hopefully, you inspected to make sure the rod is not damaged.

SailorJohn70

Discussion Starter · #5 · 3 mo ago

Thank you for the step by step on the reteach. Unfortunately it did not solve my no crank issue. Yes, I did clean, inspect, and lube the end of the actuator rod and the detent in the clutch fork. All looked good.

SailorJohn70

Discussion Starter · #6 · 3 mo ago

I was able to get the clutch transmission to re-learn this morning. (It took me three tries, I think I just had to be more patient.) The car started and I took it for a 16 mile drive (the last 4 in manual mode). The actuator is about 1/6 inch (1.5 mm) left (to the drivers side) of where it was originally. Time will tell if the lube job / adjustment resolves my issues. I will use it for my 40 mile commute tonight and my 38 mile road trip this weekend. I will make a post to let you know how it goes.

Reactions: 3

vadsoom

· #7 · 3 mo ago

SailorJohn, I hope the issue is solved. Let us know!

Reactions: 1

SailorJohn70

Discussion Starter · #8 · 3 mo ago

So, I have driven over a full tank of gas around 4 counties and multiple driving conditions with no shifting issues. I going to say that this issue is resolved.

Reactions: 1

SailorJohn70

Discussion Starter · #9 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

I guess I spoke too soon. I just left work got in my car and it won't crank. I came out at lunch and ran it about 10 minutes to charge my phone with no problem the alternator was charging at 14V.

DenisW

· #10 · 3 mo ago

SailorJohn70 said:
I guess I spoke too soon. I just left work got in my car and it won't crank. I came out at lunch and ran it about 10 minutes to charge my phone with no problem the alternator was charging at 14V.

What does the gear indicator display show?

vadsoom

· #11 · 3 mo ago

Please get your battery load tested. A low battery can and will cause havoc with your car’s brains, many times starting with the shift actuator. It draws a lot of current. A simple voltage measurement is not enough.

Reactions: 1

jetfuel

· #12 · 3 mo ago

…car won’t crank…at lunch you run it for ten minutes..how did you get it to crank/start???

jetfuel…confused…

DenisW

· #13 · 3 mo ago

SailorJohn70 said:
I guess I spoke too soon. I just left work got in my car and it won't crank. I came out at lunch and ran it about 10 minutes to charge my phone with no problem the alternator was charging at 14V.

SailorJohn, Just a point of reference; Unlike other cars you may have worked on, the Smart ignition switch does not send power to a starter solenoid. The Smart ignition switch sends a signal to the SAM, which in turn checks to see if "all systems are go" before sending power to the solenoid. Hence if the battery is marginal some sensors may not respond.

Reactions: 3

SailorJohn70

Discussion Starter · #14 · 3 mo ago

jetfuel said:
…car won’t crank…at lunch you run it for ten minutes..how did you get it to crank/start???

jetfuel…confused…

The car started fine and idled for about 10 minutes while I charged my phone at lunch time. Four hours later when I tried to leave work the car would not crank/start.

SailorJohn70

Discussion Starter · #15 · 3 mo ago

FYI, checked the battery at an O'Reilly on the way home. They tested it for 650 CCA and it passed (it was at 12.59 volts when tested).

I guess I'll pull the starter and have that tested

SailorJohn70

Discussion Starter · #16 · 3 mo ago

I'm tired of posting in two threads and since this is not a clutch actuator issue any more I am only going to post updates in my No Crank No Start post.

I do hope you will read it to get my latest update.

Reactions: 1

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

Status: Not open for further replies.