[ednevell]

So my clutch pressure plate had failed, had a clutch installed and the guy couldnt get the actuator to relearn the new clutch. Fast forward to now (4 weeks later) I need to install a new clutch actuator as the one that is new in the car (along with the new clutch) Has died. No sound no movement, just dead.

So I will need to relearn the actuator for the new clutch, what is an alternative the a MB star? I am into this car for may more than the $300 I paid for it and I want to utilize it for something.

Any pointer at a scan tool/diagnostic tool than can relearn the clutch actuation would be helpful!

Thanks!

 

[ednevell]

Also Is the clutch actuation supposed to feel like a clutch dump with alot of jerking? If not I could assume the previous owner broke the actuator by sending voltage through it or something.

 

[ednevell]

nothing?

 

[gtdump]

First off, holy moly you got a running car for $300? I am jealous.

The clutch actuator is supposed to be installed with, as I recall, 15lbs of force applied to the clutch when installed.
There's a chance that the parts you have replaced might not be the cause of the issue, can you share what codes and issues you're having? Might be something else, issue with the wiring harness, TCU, or even a different subsystem causing errors on the bus.

 

[wahi]

There are many unknowns in your story. First, when did you purchase the car? What year model? What condition was it in when you bought it? $300 sounds like you never got to hear it crank, let alone drive it. Did you get to? The diagnosis that the clutch plate is gone; who made that call and why, how did he know? Has he replaced clutch plates on smarts before?The old clutch actuator was replaced with a new one that got fried, you said; why was the old actuator replaced if only the clutch plate is broken? We don't even know how good the battery is in the car. If you can clarify all the above and more, maybe we'll know where to begin.

 

[MicksCamaro]

I'll throw my .02 cents in here. After I hit 100k a few years ago, I retired my first 451 from active use (upgraded to a older C32 AMG, but that's another story). I replaced my first actuator at 40k, and another around 100k miles later, but I think that was a misdiagnosis from my local Indy guy.
My clutch at almost 150k is surely thin. I've got a new one sitting in the box waiting, but we keep going, so it stays in the box, lol.
Purpose of this comment is to mention that my car started the "shudders" in 1st and Reverse. Indy told me it was the actuator, got it replaced, CLEARED CODES, and she was a happy camper. Having had the previous actuator actually fail, I know the difference. So since then, when I occasionally get the shudders, I disconnect the battery as soon as I can, wait, reconnect, and relearn. Seems to do the trick. I've also started babying my shifts somewhat, and I've learned that my TCM gets confused if I play with the throttle during downshifts on steep hills on the freeway. Also doesn't like quick shifting, either. But if/when she gets cranky and actually throws a code, my Ultraguage will clear it, then do the battery trick, and rock on.
I'm currently finishing up my second 451 restoration. First one was a pizza car that was ridden hard and put away wet. Fuel tank had Two-Stroke gas in it when I got it. Paid $600, later sold her for $3k. Next was a Cabbie that was stripped (and I mean NAKED-no panels, roof, interior, wheels, nothin'), for $350. These deals are out there, you just have to be familiar with who has the cars, and step in before the owners lose patience and do something drastic or terrible to the car.

 

[ednevell]

There are many unknowns in your story. First, when did you purchase the car? What year model? What condition was it in when you bought it? $300 sounds like you never got to hear it crank, let alone drive it. Did you get to? The diagnosis that the clutch plate is gone; who made that call and why, how did he know? Has he replaced clutch plates on smarts before?The old clutch actuator was replaced with a new one that got fried, you said; why was the old actuator replaced if only the clutch plate is broken? We don't even know how good the battery is in the car. If you can clarify all the above and more, maybe we'll know where to begin.

Ok so the previous owner of my 2008 smart fortwo passion installed a new actuator (just throwing parts at it to fix issues with drivability) and hooked up bare wires to the plug to test actuation because he had the three bars of death after removing the battery. The actuator was not actuating properly, lots of jerking and slipping. The pressure plate itself failed, three springs that hold it together were all broken. Hence the massive rattle and clanking from the bell housing.
I threw a new clutch at it thinking that was what was making it jerk violently when taking off. Not the case but the throw out bearing was destroyed and the pressure plate was falling apart.

So new clutch, new release arm, throwout bearing and pressure plate and resurfaced flywheel. All was well right? NOPE
After trying over and over to relearn the clutch actuator and new clutch it kept failing. Then out of nowhere the actuator got stuck in full open mode.

Today the new actuator(again) showed up, installed in the car and it drove off the ramps nice and smooth with no jerkiness. I am now waiting on a new diagnostic tool to come tomorrow so I can relearn the clutch and transmission.

Its been a mess, but I like the car enough to keep putting time and money into it. I have new front brakes, and tone rings for the rear. also going to pull the PAINTED panels off the car and strip them back to yellow as the paint is just falling off the car.

Next is front struts, sway bar end links as I dont know which is bad but it clunks over small bumps and big bumps.

Thanks to everyone who responded, I look forward to being part of this crowd for a while!

 

[ednevell]

Well, got the transmission and clutch relearned, but the 1800 code is still coming up. Also it drops out of gear when driving.
Not sure where to go from here.

 

[gtdump]

It drops out of gear? Does it drop out as though the clutch were depressed, as though it were in neutral, another gear?
Do you have a bunch of other codes or just the P1800?

 

[ednevell]

It drops out of gear? Does it drop out as though the clutch were depressed, as though it were in neutral, another gear?
Do you have a bunch of other codes or just the P1800?

just 1800, im gonna wipe it after work, and the way it feels is like the clutch is pressed.
its odd, no check engine light.
LOL down the rabbit hole I go.

 

[ednevell]

Good news! The dacia......... LOL j/k I got the ugly duckling going, for some reason the TCU was set to limp home mode and was stuck, I changed the setting, relearned the transmission and then relearned the new clutch and new actuator. Car drives great, nice and smooth. Now just to find my clunk in the front end and get some rear rims for the front.

For anybody needing a good semi inexpensive diagnostic tool that can relearn both the transmission and the clutch and actuator. The Autel MaxiPRO MP808 is $751 after tax with free shipping on amazon!

 

[gtdump]

Good to hear it's up and going and nice to hear a successful report of another scanner.

Having bought some rims within the last year, shop around as prices vary significantly. As for fronts vs rears, I would look at what sizes you want to run on it before purchasing rims. You might find that the tires you want will work on fronts all around and since they are far less in demand it could save you a bit of cash upfront.

 

[Marty JR]

So my clutch pressure plate had failed, had a clutch installed and the guy couldnt get the actuator to relearn the new clutch. Fast forward to now (4 weeks later) I need to install a new clutch actuator as the one that is new in the car (along with the new clutch) Has died. No sound no movement, just dead.

So I will need to relearn the actuator for the new clutch, what is an alternative the a MB star? I am into this car for may more than the $300 I paid for it and I want to utilize it for something.

Any pointer at a scan tool/diagnostic tool than can relearn the clutch actuation would be helpful!

Thanks!

 

[ttesch]

Not sure if i can ask this here or if i should start a new topic. But i just picked up a 2008 for 2 with about 136k on it. was able to drive it home but it drops the clutch hard when you let off the brake. i have another 2008 that works flawless and this new one is messed up. previous own installed a new ebay clutch actuator and it can be forced to work but the tcm will not relearn the clutch and trans. totally strange. i get a p1800, p900, and the clutch drag point code at times. but when i try to relearnt the actuator the scanner will show "no communication" but can be relearned with a battery disconnect. tried swapping in the tcm fro my other one and that one set all kinds of communication codes and issues. totally strange to me. im thinking it needs a clutch but dont want to just throw parts. and i also tried a oem actuator i had off my other car that i had. same results. any ideas.....thanks in advance