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Ok if the bmsdiag log is old and the dash board indicate no hv shop failure you should be alright and connect the charger.
Never the less during bmsdiag readout you be already close to 0% SoC.

Hope you not recharged the 12V system out of the HV battery.
You maybe could measure the 12V battery voltage before and during you switched on the ignition
 

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2014 Smart ForTwo ED
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Fully agree with DealMeIn.
You should immediatly charge the 12V as there are already some failures indicated in this direction.
Only the precharge to long is not really got.
Because this shows there is an issue on the HV DC bus on some of the connected components.

You could maybe check the HV connector connected to the PTC above the 12V battery compartment.

Other option could be an hw defect of the BMS but step after step.
I checked the orange HV connector above the 12v battery, it appears to be fine with no corrosion. (I disconnected the 12v and HV disconnect, removed the connector, inspected, reseated the connector, reseated the HV disconnect, reconnected the 12v, scanned for codes and the error remains Active and Stored)
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Ok never the less the interlock routing seems to work the high voltage on heater is not present or to low.

Maybe you could check by measurement beween the HV cables if the fuse protecting the different wires to the component inside the box of the drive inverter where all hv cables come out is not blown.
 

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2014 Cabriolet bought in Sept 2016 with 6,470 mi
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Please get a current bms diag report.

Assume by scanning for codes you mean you tried clearing them again and they don't stay cleared.

Have you tried hooking up the 120V charging cable?
 

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2014 Smart ForTwo ED
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Ok if the bmsdiag log is old and the dash board indicate no hv shop failure you should be alright and connect the charger.
Never the less during bmsdiag readout you be already close to 0% SoC.

Hope you not recharged the 12V system out of the HV battery.
You maybe could measure the 12V battery voltage before and during you switched on the ignition
I used a dedicated battery tender/charger to charge the 12v battery.
When I connect the charger I still get the "Malfunction" error on the cluster screen
the 12v battery currently reads 12.32V with key off, and 12.22V with key on
 

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2014 Smart ForTwo ED
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Ok never the less the interlock routing seems to work the high voltage on heater is not present or to low.

Maybe you could check by measurement beween the HV cables if the fuse protecting the different wires to the component inside the box of the drive inverter where all hv cables come out is not blown.
Are you asking me to measure the voltage at the orange HV cable at the PTC heater between the two HV pins?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
OK, clear the codes again, change the charge and depart to Charge Now, then plug in the charging cable and try to charge
I cleared the codes, the same three returned since they are active. I changed the charge and depart to charge now(this is possible with the key off while the gauge cluster is still active), I plugged in the charger and it gave the "malfunction" error in the gauge cluster, same as before.
 

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2014 Cabriolet bought in Sept 2016 with 6,470 mi
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Thanks, was hoping to be able to clear that error and get it charging again. Going to have to wait until JMK2020 can weigh in again from Europe about what to do next.
 

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Ok back again,
To change the charging time on dash is absolute independent on you failure situation. Even the charge end time only cause the option to get preconditioning via AC if parallel activated. It never shift the start of charging to a later point.
Also it seems to me independet of the overall charging topic, as soon you switch ignition the HV bus preloading does not work.
It means the voltage measurement by the hv components does not work.

Interpreting the failure codes that you have too low voltage ( hv) it should be the missing HV at PTC heater.
As the device is answering i don-t believe it is the 12V supply or fuse of the PTC but a HV issue.

As you could not measure the HV on the connector of the HV bus because you interrupt the interlock line which prevent of this, you only could do it opposite. Means check if the wiring and HV high current fuse between the HV connector of PTC and the connector to the Battery or more easy of the AC compressor is conducting.

I am not sure about the measurement which lead to the BMS failure. It could be internal but also come from a CAN bus message from PTC.
 

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I have to agree with the last post. It sounds like your traction battery is "isolated". I'm not familiar with the smart ED but I do know that all EV have an isolation circuit that shuts the HV battery so there is no high voltage until it turns on. No charging or power.
Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Number

This diagram is from a Think EV but it is virtually the same with a Nissan Leaf and most EVs that I know. In Leaf speak this is the "Battery Junction Box". Find out the name Smart gives it and see if the circuit is OK. My mechanic friend tipped me off to this, He has repaired a lot of Thinks with a bad resistor and I just repaired a Leaf a couple weeks ago with the same issue, a blown resistor, a $25 part. In this case a new resistor did the trick. A good technician will earn his money. I understand smart uses Bosch components so it should be quite generic.
 

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2014 Smart ForTwo ED
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I have to agree with the last post. It sounds like your traction battery is "isolated". I'm not familiar with the smart ED but I do know that all EV have an isolation circuit that shuts the HV battery so there is no high voltage until it turns on. No charging or power. View attachment 73284
This diagram is from a Think EV but it is virtually the same with a Nissan Leaf and most EVs that I know. In Leaf speak this is the "Battery Junction Box". Find out the name Smart gives it and see if the circuit is OK. My mechanic friend tipped me off to this, He has repaired a lot of Thinks with a bad resistor and I just repaired a Leaf a couple weeks ago with the same issue, a blown resistor, a $25 part. In this case a new resistor did the trick. A good technician will earn his money. I understand smart uses Bosch components so it should be quite generic.
It's funny that you posted this(i didn't see this message until now after I pulled the main hv battery, disassembled it, and tested the precharge resistor and relay. The relay works, but the resistor is electrically an open circuit.
I would love help finding an exact or suitable replacement. It has "KWA30040 27R 5% i" on it.
 
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