2014 Smart ForTwo ED
I went ahead and ordered that one, it appears to be the closest one readily available. It was $11.46 shipped, that definitely beats the 38k Mercedes wanted to replace the full pack.So according to this data sheet (HERE) the one I took out has the exact same dimensions as the 30W resistor. I checked and it appears digikey only has the 40W version(HERE), which should work, but i would have to move the mounting hole by ~8mm to make it fit in place. I'm going to keep searching.
dimensions are 19mm W, 19mm H, 75mmL, ~38mm from end to mounting hole
So unfortunately replacing this resistor did not fix the issue. I'm receiving the same precharge code, and I suspect the resistor I replaced has blown again. My understanding is that in this case there will be an abnormal power draw from a component in the HV circuit on precharge which is causing the failure. I've already removed and visually inspected the charger and PTC heater and I couldn't see any damaged components on the boards. I have access to WIS but I have very little experience with it and I haven't been able to find a troubleshooting procedure for precharge issues. If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears, I only attempted to turn the car on 3 times and clear the codes(precharge taking too long) code is still active, so there is a possibility the precharge resistor hasn't blown yet. Regardless, I'm fairly certain the issue lies in a different HV system that isn't throwing a code.Again, I think you nailed it, looks like the exact replacement. Well done
Do you know the expected resistance values for each system and the system as a whole?So back as i wrote you. Disconnect the HV battery and measure the resistandance and disconnect system by system till you found the ecu which is the reason.
There are no additional codes, so the issue is not generating a code. I didn't have a chance to check the resistor again, but i'm keeping my fingers crossed. I did what @Jmk2020 suggested and tested each HV component individually. I discovered that the AC compressor likely has a bad capacitor (resistance reads very high initially and then near infinite.) I'm currently dissassembling the compressor. I'm attempted to repair it without draining the AC system, so hopefully this works out.I wish I could be more help, I haven't seen any information on the smart EV system. Codes would help zero in on the problem. Did you get a chance to see if the original resistor was OK?