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Good day/evening to all the members of the forum.

I will start by indicating that I am a Merc (Mercedes Benz) guy with three of the pre 2000 S-Class models and one 2013 Smart Fortwo cabriolet, along with my Ford Crown Victoria. Going straight to the modifications I need help with or some that are in process.

1. Just got an aftermarket grille with LEDs. How should I wire them to act as DRL and turn off when High-beams are on? I just want to comply with state laws. Note: I just ordered a used center console switch with the fog light button so wiring using it will be very helpful. DRL is preferred if both requests are not possible. Diagrams are welcome! Will it be just hard-wiring it to the ignition signal? With a relay/switch? Turning on with the car is preferred and a switch to manually turn them off is optional but not needed.

2. I am currently installing two eBay-acquired interior amber LEDs. Those will be installed somewhere around the lighter adapter socket to turn on when the doors are open (with dome light). Identifying the correct wire or wires to withdraw the current will also help.

3. I have already installed an OBD2 port Y-extension. It looks and works as an available OBD2 port. The other port has a concealed vehicle tracker. In my case a Sprint Drive but ATT, T-Mobile and Verizon have their own versions. It is not visible and the port is 100% functional.

4. LEDs have been installed all around the car and yes, hyper-flashing is there! My car has 3 relays behind the SAM. I have read that replacing the left two relays with LED versions (one for each side of the car) will solve the problem. Not 100% sure about that so looking for guidance. Now, I did follow some advice for a like-situation with a 2000 Ford Crown Victoria that handles signal lights through a lighting (?) module. It states that 2 wires had to be cut down and a LED relay/flasher be installed on those. It DID work and has been working ever since it was installed. The only and ONLY problem is that the LED relay is silent but I am perfectly fine with that. With that being said, what cables can be intercepted to do this simple modification on the smart? The pulsating signal will have to be intercepted and that is the location/wire needed. Two may be required but that would be OK. Full wiring diagram for the lights is needed. This may fix the hyper-flashing as it did in my Ford.

5. Since the engine cooling fan is always ON when the Air conditioning is working, which is 99.99% of the times I use the car, I would like to know how do I keep the engine cooling fan ON without having the Air conditioning ON. That is for the moments I have the top down. I understand the strain on it but if I use the AC all the time it makes no difference. Lower temp sensor? Interrupting a signal? Help needed here.

6. Which wires do I need to deal with to install a coolant/engine temperature display? I had installed an OBD2 scanner and I have noticed why MB has not installed OEM ones. The temp readings are like a roller-coaster on these cars. Hence why monitoring it all the time is a must to avoid overheating. It would scare anyone seeing a needle moving up and down all the time.

7. The U.S. version of the 451 does have the stop/signal using the same bulb. By the way, I use the Philips RED LEDs for the stop lights on my cars and they are EXCELLENT! In this Smart car I have used the Sylvania Amber LEDs for the front and Sylvania Red LEDs for the back because I wanted to try other LEDs all around. The light output is comparable to the Philips ones. Back to the modification, there is an empty single-contact socket that has no use and the taillight will not allow to put a bulb because the taillight itself has that space restricted/blocked. I bought a second set of used taillights to modify/cut that area to fit that extra bulb. I will then rewire that socket on each side to either be used with the signal/stop light combination (not the parking one) or rewire it directly with the third brake light for stop light only. I will probably try both options. The first option will produce a brighter stop/signal light on each side and the second will have the lower side as stop-only while the upper side could be blinking at the same time. They could also be used as rear fog lights because one of the center console switches I have seen has those already: front and rear fog lights. Not interested in the third option as of now.

8. Why the front signal socket has two contacts and only one is used??? I will try to rewire that one with the parking lights to have a constant dim amber light in the front and brighter signals. Just as the rear lights behave.

9. Tires have been replaced with the style-package configuration offered by Smart. Using the same OEM wheels, I have installed 165/60r15 on the front ones and 195/50r15 on the rear ones. They look good, feel good and no rubbing at all. I have tried 195/50r15 all around with four of the rear-wheel rims and it DID work, no rubbing, but on curves (I have a dozen per inch driven) and while going downhill the traction control would activate if I was not pressing the brakes or pressing the gas pedal. I guess if you live in a place without so many curves it will work for you.

10. Waiting for an order of 4000K, 3000 lumens (1500 per side) to replace the low beams H7 still keeping the OEM look. I want the yellowish tint on the lights for the moments that rain or fog are present. Normal OEM H7s tend to produce about 1000 lumens (correct me if I am wrong here or anywhere else) so it should be better without blinding the upcoming traffic. As a note, the human eye has adapted for the Sun's light, which is kind of yellowish. Try 6500K lights while it is raining and on a dark road and the light will basically disappear not to mention that while light bounces off the rain technically reflecting it back to the driver. It is a safety issue for me having worked for so many years in accident reconstructions.

11. The chicken-head emblem on the front was removed and replaced with a custom-made MB logo. VERY easy to make. Get an OEM MB emblem (has to be OEM so that it lasts for years to come without peeling) and also get a lexan or black (to match grille color) round plastic thick enough to be able to drill holes and large enough to cover the original spot and to match the OEM emblem size. Create a paper/cardboard template before drilling. Later glue the emblem on the back where the prongs are visible. The challenge comes when it is glued where the chicken-head used to be. Use a level to create three marks to match the tri-star and that way it will be centered. I will get the correct dimensions at a later time. It looks GREAT!!!!! Photos will follow at a later time. Total cost was between $30 - $40 vs the $100 bolt-on option offered on eBay. And this one looks OEM style!

12. I am still looking to replace the tailgate SMART word with a small-enough MB OEM emblem. It must measure about 2.0 - 2.5 inches. Any ideas which MB uses that one? I am not sure if I will drill or just glue that one.

Please provide any wiring diagrams needed for anything requested here. Also, please correct any assumptions I have made. All modifications will be shared with the forum.

Regards,

J.J.
 

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some MB emblems

There is a 'trunk lid' emblem that is pretty small.
I got in a 2.75" diameter one (part number on the left) - not sure if I'll use on the front of a 450.
The 2.25" diameter ones on the right are centercap stickers, but they are domed.
You probably can find a Flat Round wheel centercap sticker somewhere.


 

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Welcome to SCoA!! I'll try my best to answer your questions based on my own experience.

1. Just got an aftermarket grille with LEDs. How should I wire them to act as DRL and turn off when High-beams are on? I just want to comply with state laws. Note: I just ordered a used center console switch with the fog light button so wiring using it will be very helpful. DRL is preferred if both requests are not possible. Diagrams are welcome! Will it be just hard-wiring it to the ignition signal? With a relay/switch? Turning on with the car is preferred and a switch to manually turn them off is optional but not needed.
My offroad lights (that I also use as a DRL) are wired to a fuse that inserts into R5 on the SAM under the dash. It's an open slot that is switched with the ignition. Not sure how one would get them to turn off with the high beams outside of wiring them to a switch.

2. I am currently installing two eBay-acquired interior amber LEDs. Those will be installed somewhere around the lighter adapter socket to turn on when the doors are open (with dome light). Identifying the correct wire or wires to withdraw the current will also help.
I suppose you could wire these to the dome light circuit? That way they will work with the dome light's buttons and functions. When I was trying to wire a push button start into my headliner, I removed the left side a-pillar panel and the panel with the visors and dome light to gain access to the circuit.

4. LEDs have been installed all around the car and yes, hyper-flashing is there! My car has 3 relays behind the SAM. I have read that replacing the left two relays with LED versions (one for each side of the car) will solve the problem. Not 100% sure about that so looking for guidance. Now, I did follow some advice for a like-situation with a 2000 Ford Crown Victoria that handles signal lights through a lighting (?) module. It states that 2 wires had to be cut down and a LED relay/flasher be installed on those. It DID work and has been working ever since it was installed. The only and ONLY problem is that the LED relay is silent but I am perfectly fine with that. With that being said, what cables can be intercepted to do this simple modification on the smart? The pulsating signal will have to be intercepted and that is the location/wire needed. Two may be required but that would be OK. Full wiring diagram for the lights is needed. This may fix the hyper-flashing as it did in my Ford.
This one has an easy solution. Get CANBUS LEDs or wire in resistors and the hyper-flashing will go away. 5 years with CANBUS LEDs and counting. :)

5. Since the engine cooling fan is always ON when the Air conditioning is working, which is 99.99% of the times I use the car, I would like to know how do I keep the engine cooling fan ON without having the Air conditioning ON. That is for the moments I have the top down. I understand the strain on it but if I use the AC all the time it makes no difference. Lower temp sensor? Interrupting a signal? Help needed here.
Definitely not sure about this. However, if your cooling system is maintained properly you really shouldn't need to run the fan all the time.

6. Which wires do I need to deal with to install a coolant/engine temperature display? I had installed an OBD2 scanner and I have noticed why MB has not installed OEM ones. The temp readings are like a roller-coaster on these cars. Hence why monitoring it all the time is a must to avoid overheating. It would scare anyone seeing a needle moving up and down all the time.
Also not sure. Most of us here use a Scangauge II or an UltraGauge which provide coolant temp information.

One huge asterisk though is that if you have air in your coolant line you can end up with an air bubble in your engine. When that happens your engine can overheat and the temperature display will read as normal as the poor thing cooks itself.

7. The U.S. version of the 451 does have the stop/signal using the same bulb. By the way, I use the Philips RED LEDs for the stop lights on my cars and they are EXCELLENT! In this Smart car I have used the Sylvania Amber LEDs for the front and Sylvania Red LEDs for the back because I wanted to try other LEDs all around. The light output is comparable to the Philips ones. Back to the modification, there is an empty single-contact socket that has no use and the taillight will not allow to put a bulb because the taillight itself has that space restricted/blocked. I bought a second set of used taillights to modify/cut that area to fit that extra bulb. I will then rewire that socket on each side to either be used with the signal/stop light combination (not the parking one) or rewire it directly with the third brake light for stop light only. I will probably try both options. The first option will produce a brighter stop/signal light on each side and the second will have the lower side as stop-only while the upper side could be blinking at the same time. They could also be used as rear fog lights because one of the center console switches I have seen has those already: front and rear fog lights. Not interested in the third option as of now.

8. Why the front signal socket has two contacts and only one is used??? I will try to rewire that one with the parking lights to have a constant dim amber light in the front and brighter signals. Just as the rear lights behave.
So I've been told, the both of these are quirks of the conversion process of making these cars US complaint from their original Euro specifications. Can't offer any help here, but it would be nice to see the end result! :)

9. ...
I have tried 195/50r15 all around with four of the rear-wheel rims and it DID work, no rubbing, but on curves (I have a dozen per inch driven) and while going downhill the traction control would activate if I was not pressing the brakes or pressing the gas pedal. I guess if you live in a place without so many curves it will work for you.
That's weird. 195/50/15 on all four corners is a popular mod around here. My car had that setup for roughly 100k miles and I didn't experience what you describe, with exceptions to that year or so I was rolling on generic brand Chinese tyres. Wonder what's causing that in your car..
 

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Running the cooling fan all the time may keep the engine too cool, and cause the computer to add extra fuel to compensate. that could make the catalytic converter to work overtime. Running the AC puts and extra load on the engine which is why the fan runs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Does anyone know the measurements of the latest C300 trunk emblem? I recently noticed that it is kind of small.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
..And shortly there after the most answers on a post!
Good job Miss Mercedes.:yelclap:
Just arrived from a month-long trip and leaving in a few days for another one. I will have very limited access to the forum. As I have the opportunity, I will post photos and progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Welcome to SCoA!! I'll try my best to answer your questions based on my own experience.



My offroad lights (that I also use as a DRL) are wired to a fuse that inserts into R5 on the SAM under the dash. It's an open slot that is switched with the ignition. Not sure how one would get them to turn off with the high beams outside of wiring them to a switch.



I suppose you could wire these to the dome light circuit? That way they will work with the dome light's buttons and functions. When I was trying to wire a push button start into my headliner, I removed the left side a-pillar panel and the panel with the visors and dome light to gain access to the circuit.



This one has an easy solution. Get CANBUS LEDs or wire in resistors and the hyper-flashing will go away. 5 years with CANBUS LEDs and counting. :)



Definitely not sure about this. However, if your cooling system is maintained properly you really shouldn't need to run the fan all the time.



Also not sure. Most of us here use a Scangauge II or an UltraGauge which provide coolant temp information.

One huge asterisk though is that if you have air in your coolant line you can end up with an air bubble in your engine. When that happens your engine can overheat and the temperature display will read as normal as the poor thing cooks itself.



So I've been told, the both of these are quirks of the conversion process of making these cars US complaint from their original Euro specifications. Can't offer any help here, but it would be nice to see the end result! :)



That's weird. 195/50/15 on all four corners is a popular mod around here. My car had that setup for roughly 100k miles and I didn't experience what you describe, with exceptions to that year or so I was rolling on generic brand Chinese tyres. Wonder what's causing that in your car..
Have you heard of/seen the crookedest street in the world? San Francisco? Imagine that, but really dozens and dozens more... Well. I think, by experience, the ECU believes the car is slipping because there is no difference in the tire sizes. Specially when turning constantly between left and right. In reality there is a slight difference on RPMs between front and rear that has been accounted for. When I am not pressing the brakes or the gas pedal (downhill), the ECU believes the car is actually slipping and it activates. Now, the 165/60r15 (front) and 195/50r15 (rear) is a very stable configuration. It is the equivalent of the OEM ones, just larger but keeping the proportions. By the way, those tire sizes are very inexpensive. or a little over $200 for all four tires.
 

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Been running same size tires on all 4 corners for a few years now and have not seen the issues with cornering.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Still trying to figure what cables are used when signaling. Working on installing LED flashers/relays to eliminate hyper flashing.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Not Jim here but when I tried all four tires using the same size (175/55R15) the antilock system would kick in on every curve (I drive through hundreds just to leave my small town) when going downhill. It would not happen uphill. I decided against them and went with the Smart Fortwo “style” package sizes which are front 165/60R15 and rear 195/50R15. They are slightly wider/taller.
 

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Welcome to SCoA!! I'll try my best to answer your questions based on my own experience.



My offroad lights (that I also use as a DRL) are wired to a fuse that inserts into R5 on the SAM under the dash. It's an open slot that is switched with the ignition. Not sure how one would get them to turn off with the high beams outside of wiring them to a switch.



I suppose you could wire these to the dome light circuit? That way they will work with the dome light's buttons and functions. When I was trying to wire a push button start into my headliner, I removed the left side a-pillar panel and the panel with the visors and dome light to gain access to the circuit.



This one has an easy solution. Get CANBUS LEDs or wire in resistors and the hyper-flashing will go away. 5 years with CANBUS LEDs and counting. :)



Definitely not sure about this. However, if your cooling system is maintained properly you really shouldn't need to run the fan all the time.



Also not sure. Most of us here use a Scangauge II or an UltraGauge which provide coolant temp information.

One huge asterisk though is that if you have air in your coolant line you can end up with an air bubble in your engine. When that happens your engine can overheat and the temperature display will read as normal as the poor thing cooks itself.



So I've been told, the both of these are quirks of the conversion process of making these cars US complaint from their original Euro specifications. Can't offer any help here, but it would be nice to see the end result! :)



That's weird. 195/50/15 on all four corners is a popular mod around here. My car had that setup for roughly 100k miles and I didn't experience what you describe, with exceptions to that year or so I was rolling on generic brand Chinese tyres. Wonder what's causing that in your car..

When you put the 195/50/15 tires on the front, did you replace the front rims with rear ones?
 
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