Driving to work, I noticed the water temp goes up to 193 then drops immediately down to 182. As I recall before the fan, it would slowly drop down to 188 and then slowly rise to 195.
Guess it is doing the job, but now I don't hear it when it turns on....
My cooling fan started making a bad bearing racket at about 49000 miles.. It was barely still under warranty.. They had to pretty much tear the entire front end off the car, and it also required coolant drain and A/C system evac/recharge.. would have been about a $600 labor job. Glad I made the warranty..
If the noise was in the front it was the electric fan. Mine had to be replaced because a bearing went out. I could see the fan wobbling when I looked at it from below. It is not a DYI job for most of us. If I'm remembering my prices correctly my part was about $300 and then the part is close to $300 worth of disassembly in from the front of the car and then about $300 to put the front end back on. In between they pulled the radiator and the AC. After replacing the fan they put the AC back and recharged it and then replace the Radiator and refill it. You get the idea of what is involved. Some people have replaced the fan with a pusher fan on the outside of the radiator. Look for threads for that.
Good luck and I hope you just had a bearing that needed some exercise.
I didn't think there would be an issue as the fan circuit was already running an electric fan and I disconnected it to run the new one with the same wires. I made sure since the fan was moved to the front of the radiator, that it directed air flow through the radiator (pusher ) and made sure all the cardboard air deflectors were in place before I sealed it up. from the outside (and under the hood) you would not know anything had changed from stock. been running since 2012 to present (2015) with not a single cooling issue.
I posted this question to the other thread on this subject as well. I just bought the hayden fan for the front replacement, but I am not sure what mounting brackets to use. Instead of experimenting I was hoping you could relay that info. Thanks for posting the idea for the replacement, you've already saved me so much $$$$
I made some brackets that bolted to the fan in their mounting holes and used some screws to mount it onto the front of the smart. used some brackets left over from mounting my rain gutters as they were aluminum and easy to work with. You want to have the fan as close to the radiator as possible.
I did this to my Black smart which has long since been sold down the road. It was done back in 2012 and once the front clip is removed, is pretty much an easy placement and bolt on. There are ideos about removing the front clip on youtube.
Thank you for the reply. My concern was with the wiring. Were you able to reach behind the radiator & disconnect the wire or did you just end up cutting it? Im guessing there is no specific requirements for the fan, as long as it's big enough?
*also does the battery need to be disconnected before you do the wiring?
The wires going to the fan come down on the drivers side of the radiator and you can easily reach up to the fan and disconnect them. I added the wires from the new fan and left the old connector in place.
The fan I used was a hayden push-pull fan from O'Rieleys and was a 14 inch low profile model, just to make sure I had room-. You can change the direction of the air flow by reversing the lead to the fan.
I am sure it is available at most auto parts stores. The mounting bracket was made from some leftover straps I had from mounting rain gutters on my house. I screwed it to the fiberglas header that holds the radiator, headlight, and everything onto the front of the car with some sheetrock screws. Any screw would work just as well
I left the battery connected but you could disconnect it. Make sure the fan is going the right direction before attaching the front clip