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Discussion Starter #1
I tried to search for this, but found different things. I just got an OBDii with an app on my phone to monitor different things. What is the normal operating range for the coolant temperature? Also, how high is getting dangerous "pull over and shut it down" high? I noticed the fan came on when idling at about 214 degrees fahrenheit.

One other question. Is redline 6,000 or 6,500. Does it hurt to run it at 75 or 80 mph (4000 rpm or so?) for long days?

Thanks for your input.
 

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Normal seems to vary by car - most in the 192 -198 F range I think.

The temp warning lights comes on at 244 F, head gasket blows at 248 so shut it down immediately if the light comes on.

Redline is 6000 rpm on the tach. :)
 

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Normal for me is 175*F - 198*F. Anything under and my engine starts getting iffy...
 

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I would call 190-200 deg. F normal range. It will go higher at stops until the radiator fan turns on, depending on ambient temperature. A temperature of 230-235 deg. F should not hurt it but if it got that high I would stop and find out why before letting it get any hotter.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the replies. Seems mine is running right where it should.

So, does it do any harm to run 75 - 80 mph all day long?
 

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Ultragage on my 2008 runs about 190-196 before the thermostat opens and starts the 185 to 198 up and down cycle on the highway. Run the air conditioner on hot days which keeps the radiator fan running continuously, not at the ragged edge of self destruction.

The basic design flaw of running the cooling lines DOWN under the cabin which keeps any bubbles trapped in the engine, mostly in the head at the number 1 cylinder, the high point of the engine, should be relieved every few weeks. Fill the coolant recovery tank to the mark on a hot engine. Then, drive the car UP a steep hill until it almost flips over backwards, putting the engine on the low end of the coolant loop and radiator/coolant tank on top. Any bubbles trapped in the engine can now float out of the engine, up the pipes under the floor and into the radiator. If any bubbles of size exist, when you put it back on the level you can see the drop in the coolant recovery tank. I drive up an embankment at home, race the hot engine a few times to race the coolant pump then back it down and park it. I've had bubbles as big as 1/2 to 3/4 litre burp up to the tank this way. No head gasket is perfectly sealed. But, normal engines don't have a toilet trap in the plumbing between the radiator and engine...
 

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how long is normal for warmup? my new smart takes forever to get up to 180 degrees..

granted its 12 degrees this morning ...

I have a Jeep wrangler which is up to that temp in 10 minutes of leaving my neighborhood.. (drive up to 50 MPH for a couple miles then a little stop N go)..

my Chevy volt has heat out of the vents before i leave the driveway even in Gasoline mode.. im guessing its using the electric heat too..

my smart im a frozen ice cube and finally see coolant temps up to 180 or so after close to 20 minutes of driving... even getting up to any temp worthy of makign the heater blow warm air seems forever.

is this normal? or do I likely have a stuck Tstat.. it does eventually creep up on the scangauge to the 180-190 range while driving.. obviously goes higher when stopped unless i have the A/C button on for defogging.. then my fan runs all the time keeping the rad temp at that 185-195 range.

-Christopher
 

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Ultragage on my 2008 runs about 190-196 before the thermostat opens and starts the 185 to 198 up and down cycle on the highway. Run the air conditioner on hot days which keeps the radiator fan running continuously, not at the ragged edge of self destruction....
Mine used to run at this temp too, but since I converted to Evan's waterless, my coolant now seems to run about 188 :)
 

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is this normal? or do I likely have a stuck Tstat.. it does eventually creep up on the scangauge to the 180-190 range while driving.. obviously goes higher when stopped unless i have the A/C button on for defogging.. then my fan runs all the time keeping the rad temp at that 185-195 range.

-Christopher
As well documented with SCoA and Smart USA last year, my engine often NEVER even reached 180 degrees even in heavy driving. Sometimes the best it could do was 150 degrees. All the while, it would shudder and sputter like a person with hypothermia.

This year is measurably better. It takes about 10-15 minutes to get the engine to 180-190 degrees. As it heats up, it still shudders, but just a little. It also will drop from 180 degrees pretty quickly when sitting still, but it always will build back up to 180 degrees.

Still think there could be a thermostat issue with my car, but this year it isn't being a royal pain...
 

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As well documented with SCoA and Smart USA last year, my engine often NEVER even reached 180 degrees even in heavy driving. Sometimes the best it could do was 150 degrees. All the while, it would shudder and sputter like a person with hypothermia.

This year is measurably better. It takes about 10-15 minutes to get the engine to 180-190 degrees. As it heats up, it still shudders, but just a little. It also will drop from 180 degrees pretty quickly when sitting still, but it always will build back up to 180 degrees.

Still think there could be a thermostat issue with my car, but this year it isn't being a royal pain...
are these cars just so efficient that the heater core alone disperses more heat than the engine creates in cold weather or is there a large bleed in even the closed Tstat to keep air bubbles out of the engine?

I did notice my smartie ran rough this morning esp when it is lugged a bit in high gear at 40 MPH..

I may just end up using the wrangler which has "skin-melt" heat in the really cold winter days..

I didnt remember the company smarts we had (they were 09's) taking so long to warm up as my new '15 does.

-Christopher
 

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Can't really say, but my guess is that these cars have a very strong cooling system...
 

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are these cars just so efficient that the heater core alone disperses more heat than the engine creates in cold weather or is there a large bleed in even the closed Tstat to keep air bubbles out of the engine?

I did notice my smartie ran rough this morning esp when it is lugged a bit in high gear at 40 MPH..

I may just end up using the wrangler which has "skin-melt" heat in the really cold winter days..

I didnt remember the company smarts we had (they were 09's) taking so long to warm up as my new '15 does.

-Christopher
Nothing has really changed much , if at all, with the cooling systems of these cars over the years. I have an '09 with Evans coolant in it (Thanks Chief) and my son has a '15. They both take a nauseating long time to warm up in the cold weather, except the son's car is nicer to ride in since he has the heated seats.:)
 

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are these cars just so efficient that the heater core alone disperses more heat than the engine creates in cold weather or is there a large bleed in even the closed Tstat to keep air bubbles out of the engine?

I did notice my smartie ran rough this morning esp when it is lugged a bit in high gear at 40 MPH..

I may just end up using the wrangler which has "skin-melt" heat in the really cold winter days..

I didnt remember the company smarts we had (they were 09's) taking so long to warm up as my new '15 does.

-Christopher
You guys need to remember, this car has an all aluminum, 1 liter, 3 cylinder. The pistons are only about 2 1/2" in diameter. There isn't a lot there to generate heat. Comparing heat production on a smart to another vehicle with a cast iron block engine is comparing apples to oranges. The aluminum block and head are much better at disipating heat than cast iron, and with so little diplacement, the odds are against it in really cold weather...

Part of the reason I'm glad my smart came with heated seats....:D
 

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I thought the pentastar in my wrangler is also aluminum.. as is the engine in my chevy volt..

granted my chevy volt has the advantage of a 6KW electric heat strip in the coolant loop to heat the interior.
the volt has a 1.4 litre i think in it. (aluminum)even if I force-Off the electric heat strip and run the Volt is CS mode (its not charging nor discharging its battery.. basically its a Prius at that point).. I still get heat much quicker than the smart..

I wish MB offered a factory remote start option for these cars.. alas the heated seats are a total lifesaver.. sorry but im a little guy that gets cold extremely easy.. (yeah im one of those that has been known set set the house at 78f on cold winter days...)...

nevertheless it sounds like what my smart does is normal.. which is really the most important, is that its not broken..
-Christopher
 
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