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Discussion Starter #1
My 2014 Smart Passion I suspect has a Brake Light Switch failure. My Traction Control light is on steady, My Brake Lights including Third brake Light are on steady.

And suddenly my car drives Perfect. It is everything I want the drive feel of the car to be. No bucking, no squirreling around, Just perfect.

Its the difference of walking a big dog that constantly pulls at the leash vs a Cesar Millan trained big dog that walks along side you in a "calm submissive state".

I never want that Big Dog jumping and pulling at the leash again.

When you drive a Video game the better you get at driving the less driver assist items you leave on. I love My Smart car feel with out the driver assist that the Traction Control light appears to have disabled.

But alas after three days of bliss, but for knowing my brake lights are on steady, I know I have to make this repair. So I now would like to know if any one has modified this switch so that the brake lights will work as they are designed to, but keep all the related driver assist disabled.

Does anyone who has attempted this Brake light switch replacement as a DYI repair believe I could/should take this repair on myself. I am familiar with location of the part and what it seems to entail. Just looking for some first hand experience.
 

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The lack of bucking actually has nothing to do with Traction Control being disabled.

Traction Control does not intervene if you're not losing traction. Unless you're peeling out at every light, Traction Control isn't your problem.

What you're most likely feeling is "creep mode" being disabled. It's a feature specific to our wonderful North American cars and the only way to turn it off (so far as we know) is to cause some sort of fault. Some people used to engage their handbrake up one click, however it seems that trick doesn't work well in the newer cars.

I think you'd be the first to try to disable the safety systems through the brake switch.

Also note that disabling the safety systems disables all active systems, including ABS, ESP, and Hill Start Assist. So take that with what you will.
 

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You need to pull that car in a smart dealership. Have them pull some codes. Is your car still under warranty. It’s 2014? You got some failed software issues there.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No codes or other issues with car. Pulled esp and brake light fuses all checked ok. Now ESP is out and car drives with all assist on again ( jerky lol ) but easy to just use the ESP disable method to have car drive with out assist ( nice and smooth ).

What has not changed is the Brake lights are still steady on. So that will be the only focus going forward.

Still just a jewel of a car.

Brake switch still primary suspect. But still no major issue with 2 months to go to Watkins Glenn event we might just be in great shape for the event.

I am currently messaging a 2008 BMW 328 xi, that i bought my Grand Daughter for highs school graduation, back to prime condition. So that has soaked up my mad money that would have been put in to my SMART. The Blessing is my poor man status has forced me to be more hands on with the SMART then I may have been with cash to throw at it. I have become very good at working on the SMART.
 

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If your actual brake lights are stuck on, you probably have a faulty brake light switch. Warranty should be able to fix that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have been Financially consumed with the 2008 BMW 328xi for the Granddaughter refurbish While that is on solid ground, it is a 2008 BMW and caution for repair is always necessary. Also a Disney World Family trip made a bank account say ouch. I am back to this Smart Car Fix. Mind you I still do not want the fix, but its time lol, and my Smart Car co workers all report the ESP disable makes them happy drivers.

A local used brake light switch is 10 dollars so I intend to have a repair shop just put that in test and change oil and filter. I would like that to get me through the summer including the possible Watkins Glenn track event and the September NYS vehicle inspection due.

I intend to spend a bit of time if not money on the car this winter. I am very happy with the car visually and running wise I do want the Go Pedal, need to replace the front belly pan, some custom head lights and some type of small rear hatch spoiler. Tweeters in the factory dash spots and a factory under dash sub woofer. A small 7 band equalizer with orange lighting to match the gauges in the pull out ash tray space would be a nice touch.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
brake light switch repaired

New brake light switch and cover ordered off EBAY from a shipper in Florida for 56 dollars free shipping. Received with in 5 days. Local shop installed it for 30 bucks. Instantly restored car to full working order. All lights and driver assists functioning as designed. Car Drives as it was designed to,
and thats all great, should pass inspection next month with no issues.

The bad news is I sure prefer how it drove while it was "broken".

So as called out earlier as "Creep" assist is what is bothering me. When broken, when the car was still if you took your foot off the gas pedal the car would not engage the clutch and not move forward. You had to press the gas pedal for the car to engage and move forward. Now repaired the car engages and moves foward as soon as you you take you foot off the brake with no gas pedal input needed.

So it seems that with the brake light switch broken any time the gas pedal was not engaged the clutch disengaged to neutral which helped the car coast at highway speeds and act tame in stop and go traffic and at stop lights.

So now is to find the trigger and possible adjustment to Gas pedal input and clutch engagement.

Other than that I have a fresh Oil and Filter change. Will change air filter Thursday. A good wax on Friday then the 5 hour trip to Watkins Glen. Gauge up the tires Saturday morning and hit the track Saturday afternoon.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well I read a lot of post, I am relearning how to drive my car and I have lubed everything with silicone. The car is the best its been since I have had it. I still could do with out "creep mode"
in bumper to bumper traffic but the last Lube of the Clutch Actuator seem to have made the clutch back off smoother certainly softer not as demanding. Its like the creep its self is a softer push. A video on where to lube the transmission gears and the Clutch actuator proved priceless. A post about Lubing the chassis points had me under the car spraying every pivot point with silicone. The harshness on the bumps are 90 percent less. I believe Iwould spray the chassis every oil change for sure, once a month might be my schedule as I feel that much difference. In auto, the car shifts gears with no bouncing or stutter, shifting gears on my own is butter smooth. A little reading, a little learning and lots of lube and the car is better then when I thought it was perfect.

Now I need another one ...... :D
 

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The jury is still out....

Throttle body reset, from Evilution....

A lot of people have tried the procedure and they have all said they have noticed a difference.
If it is real or a placebo it doesn't really matter as it costs nothing and takes almost no time at all.
Closer to an urban legend IMHO. :)
 

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"Closer to an urban legend"

Wait, what? No, I have to do this all the time! Well, I mean, sometimes I need to really floor it. After this the engine idles higher a bit at the stop lights, and lunges into 1st after I take my foot off the brake. Rather annoying. And resetting the throttle fixes this. C'mon this really works!
 

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As of current there is not a way to disable creep without causing a computer fault. People have tried and failed to fool the computers into both working and disabling creep mode.

The best way to disable creep without breaking something is to pull the parking brake up a couple notches until the creep mode is disabled. Then if you want, kill the beeper within the speedometer and loosen the parking brake so that those notches don't actually slow the car. YMMV
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Went with the one click up and disables "creep mode" perfect. Excellent solution, I even appreciate the brake light being on and the faint warning signal as it reminds me to return the brake to normal as the time it is most disliking to me is in bumper to bumper traffic. Once I am rolling "creep mode" is fairly a non factor. So now with the reading and learning thing still going on, its back to "all driver assist can be disabled if the need or desire arises.

And now my car is fixed and through the knowledge of the Smart Car of America Pack ....... Perfect On Demand.
 

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Discussion Starter #15

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Driving my smart with the parking brake 1 notch up is just habit for me now. I absolutely hate the "creep" function. I also killed the beeper in the cluster (which also kills the turn signal noise). Anyone that rides with me asks why my BRAKE light is on... lol
 

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YMMV? You make me vomit? or Your mileage may vary! :D For the longest time, I thought some of the Moderators on here were quite rude with the Vomit abbreviation. And then one day..., ohhhhh, as Charlie Sheen used to say on two and a half men. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I can't Express how much Lubing my Smarts Chassis Points has removed all harshness from the suspension. It now just rolls over cracks groves and bumps. After a full tank of gas and checking tire pressure, Lubing the chassis points should be the next thing done to a newly acquired Smart Car. Current owners of Smart cars should understand that any issue of ride harshness is fully fixable and to live with harshness is a choice rather that a necessity. SILICONE SPRAY LUBRICANT is the answer. I still drive to protect my baby's rims and low profile tires with and eagle eye out for potholes, depressed manhole covers, steel road construction plates, but its such a smooth tame ride now. Give your car and your self a break. LUBE YOUR CHASSIS TODAY.

I will Do the 5 Second Throttle Body Reset today.
 

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I have always had issues with the twitchiness of Max. Letting him creep in 1st gear in stop and go traffic always results in the front end bouncing like a bull at the rodeo. Slightly pressing the gas stops it but then it's down on the brakes to keep from rear ending the car ahead. When I did my Daystar lift and put the 205/60 R15 tires on Max it cured some problems. With the larger tires now when I let off the brake it doesn't start creeping forward like it used to and I love that. It's not disabled and maybe it's the clutch wearing and getting slightly out of adjustment (just hit 50,000 miles) but it no longer creeps. Also with the larger diameter tires the increased load on the engine causes it to hold in gear longer and not shift to a higher gear at the earliest opportunity like it used to. I can actually drive it in automatic and it not be chomping at the bit to be in 5th by 35 mph. My only other complaint is when I back out my downhill driveway and don't ride the brakes it lurches to 10 mph in reverse, yikes!! I don't want to drive that fast backwards. Lastly I know the display shows what gear you are in when you shift manually and the a "D" when you are driving in automatic, but I wished it showed what gear the tranny was in even in automatic mode. DCO
 

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Verified: Chassis Lube really Works!!!

I can't Express how much Lubing my Smarts Chassis Points has removed all harshness from the suspension. It now just rolls over cracks groves and bumps. After a full tank of gas and checking tire pressure, Lubing the chassis points should be the next thing done to a newly acquired Smart Car. Current owners of Smart cars should understand that any issue of ride harshness is fully fixable and to live with harshness is a choice rather that a necessity. SILICONE SPRAY LUBRICANT is the answer. I still drive to protect my baby's rims and low profile tires with and eagle eye out for potholes, depressed manhole covers, steel road construction plates, but its such a smooth tame ride now. Give your car and your self a break. LUBE YOUR CHASSIS TODAY.

I will Do the 5 Second Throttle Body Reset today.
I'd like to warmly thank Twcom for his suggestion! I spent a few hours today cleaning and spraying every joint I could find, and the results were just incredible. The car rides once again like it did when I bought it 6 years ago. Our CT secondary roads are a mess, full of patches, gouges, ruts and potholes. I'd have to tiptow, dodge and weave down them, usually with a biga$$ SUV or pickup on my tail 'cause I was only going 5 miles above the speed limit. Not after this though! WEEEE!

Everybody, just take the time and do this. I hope the spray lasts for a while, maybe some other lube might be even better, silicone spray may wash out too easily. I jacked up and removed each tire, one at a time, to get to the joints. Now I realize that if I just used my ramps I could of done it much quicker.

Thanks again Twcom. I hope you find the throttle body reset just as useful as I found your chassis lube recommendation! :D
 
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