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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
EDIT: Managed to fix it myself by just cutting off the old plug and installing a new GFCI angled plug. Who knew the simplest option would work so well?

Long story much shorter, the wall-plug end of my OEM smart car charger melted due to me being an idiot by letting the car charge at high-power on an extension cord for too long, in an already-warm garage.

Ok, now that that's out of the way...I want to repair the charger since the only thing damaged is the wall-plug end. Looking at the box, there are no screw holes, and it appears that even though there appear to be access flaps on either end, the bottom of the box is likely glued.

Does anyone have any idea how to safely get into this box so I can unsolder the melted cord and install another heavy-duty one? The box hasn't been plugged in for over a year (I got a proper lvl-2 charger for my garage), so there can't be any capacitive charge still in it at this point.

I guess I could....splice the cord outside of the box with another, but there's no way that would be safe, or leak-proof over time.

A new charger is around $1200 at a MB dealership, so if I can properly repair this for $100 or less I'll be happy.
 

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Long story much shorter, the wall-plug end of my OEM smart car charger melted due to me being an idiot by letting the car charge at high-power on an extension cord for too long, in an already-warm garage.

Ok, now that that's out of the way...I want to repair the charger since the only thing damaged is the wall-plug end. Looking at the box, there are no screw holes, and it appears that even though there appear to be access flaps on either end, the bottom of the box is likely glued.

Does anyone have any idea how to safely get into this box so I can unsolder the melted cord and install another heavy-duty one? The box hasn't been plugged in for over a year (I got a proper lvl-2 charger for my garage), so there can't be any capacitive charge still in it at this point.

I guess I could....splice the cord outside of the box with another, but there's no way that would be safe, or leak-proof over time.

A new charger is around $1200 at a MB dealership, so if I can properly repair this for $100 or less I'll be happy.
Look up how to make a waterproof cable splice. There is a stretchy rubber tape that can make a waterproof splice. Also, there is no reason that a wire splice with properly crimped butt-connectors would not be safe in every other way. I recall that soldering is not recommended - but I have added solder to a crimp butt connector for extra safety against pull-out.

And for clarity, you should call this thing an "EVSE" or "wall box" (European term), because it is not a charger. The charger is in the car.

Also, check the aftermarket on the internet. They make EVSE's that are a lot cheaper than the OEM and some are even dual-voltage with a 120 volt and 240 volt (NEMA 14-50) plug.
 

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Extension cord will always be THE WEAKEST LINK!

“A new charger is around $1200 at a MB dealership” - or, here’s the M-B OEM Lear L1 EVSE for $299…

 

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I have one of these

So far so good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Look up how to make a waterproof cable splice. There is a stretchy rubber tape that can make a waterproof splice. Also, there is no reason that a wire splice with properly crimped butt-connectors would not be safe in every other way. I recall that soldering is not recommended - but I have added solder to a crimp butt connector for extra safety against pull-out.

And for clarity, you should call this thing an "EVSE" or "wall box" (European term), because it is not a charger. The charger is in the car.

Also, check the aftermarket on the internet. They make EVSE's that are a lot cheaper than the OEM and some are even dual-voltage with a 120 volt and 240 volt (NEMA 14-50) plug.
Thanks! I meant to call it an EVSE, I do know the chargers are always in the car, sorry about that. I actually have a decent 50-amp wall charger I use now for primary use, but I had to have the OEM in the vehicle for it to ship when I transfer soon. See below on how I fixed it.

Just go to Amazon and buy a new $200 level 1 or 2 wall adapter.
See, this kind of advice is what is killing the right-to-repair movement. :(

Extension cord will always be THE WEAKEST LINK!

“A new charger is around $1200 at a MB dealership” - or, here’s the M-B OEM Lear L1 EVSE for $299…

I know, I'm sorry! Will never make that mistake again except in an emergency, and if I ever do have to use an extension cord, I'll make sure it is a lot more heavy-duty. And yes, I had considered just getting another spare EVSE off-brand, but I'm required to ship my vehicle with its OEM charger when I transfer soon. Gvt. shippers are pretty stingy.

Thanks all for the replies, I went ahead and took a trip to my local electric store and the friendly guy working there suggested I just...cut off the old plug and install a new one. Surprise, surprise, that was actually all I needed to do, and I even was able to score a GFCI angled plug that included water-resistant stoppers.

1 hour later and just $20 in parts, and I now have the OEM charger working again. I don't know why I didn't just try this from the get-go, since it was only one of the prongs of the plug that melted, not the cables. At least now with the GFCI I can use it safely outdoors whenever I don't have access to my normal L2 EVSE.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have one of these

So far so good.
Yeah those were going to be my last option if I wasn't able to fix mine. Not a bad price if it works well. Good to see that they have come down in price over the last couple years. I remember something similar to that one being well over $200 when I first got my car.
 

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Just go to Amazon and buy a new $200 level 1 or 2 wall adapter.
Or preferably, buy one from a seller more worthy of our business than Amazon. I fine it amazing the way that people act as if Amazon is the only online seller in existence - it is frequently not even the cheapest.
 

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Or preferably, buy one from a seller more worthy of our business than Amazon. I fine it amazing the way that people act as if Amazon is the only online seller in existence - it is frequently not even the cheapest.
Not bad advice. I'm glad the OP's was repairable with just a replacement plug. I hope the lesson here is to avoid extension cords, and if one is needed, make it 12 GA or larger to handle the continuous current.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Not bad advice. I'm glad the OP's was repairable with just a replacement plug. I hope the lesson here is to avoid extension cords, and if one is needed, make it 12 GA or larger to handle the continuous current.
For sure! I thought it was heavy-enough duty, but apparently not. Will be extra careful next time and only charge on low-power if I have to use an extension cord.
 

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For sure! I thought it was heavy-enough duty, but apparently not. Will be extra careful next time and only charge on low-power if I have to use an extension cord.
Considering that the problem was an overheated plug prong, the problem is probably a dirty or loose connection at one of the prongs in its socket - something like that can happen no matter how heavy-duty the extension cords is. I find the portable 120V EVSE is not really usable unless I use an extension cord - I juast make sure the cord is new and clean and the connection is not loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Considering that the problem was an overheated plug prong, the problem is probably a dirty or loose connection at one of the prongs in its socket - something like that can happen no matter how heavy-duty the extension cords is. I find the portable 120V EVSE is not really usable unless I use an extension cord - I juast make sure the cord is new and clean and the connection is not loose.
For sure, if you look at the stock angled plug, its build quality doesn't exactly inspire confidence, and there's no space in the plug for heat dissipation. The one I got to replace it is pretty bulky and looks to disperse heat well. Leviton 15 Amp Compact Right Angle Plug-In GFCI, Black-R51-16693-THD - The Home Depot
 

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A little electrical contact cleaner could be a good idea before plugging in. I would look for "hospital grade" in a replacement plug.
 
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