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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
rrrrraaaaaAAAAAAAAAAAGHHHHH!


6 hours after I started my oil change, and I am not really done.

Ok, so Im slow because Im chronically ill so bear that in mind.

I did my last oil change after we arrived in WA a year ago (and 10k miles, yes) so its time again. My MGP has dropped by almost 10mpg, so I knew even before the wrench it was time.

Last year, I used my brand new topside pump. It kills me, because I wear out easily, but Ive read how hard the drain plug can be to remove. Worked great last year. This year, not so much.

I still have about 1qt of old oil in the engine block. The pump would not remove it. Changing the oil filter only drained so much. The drain plug looks like it never was taken off and I couldnt remove it.

And trying to jack the car up, the skirtting came off. And busted several clips. So I tried calling my local smart dealer and the only one around is BRAND NEW 6mo AGO IN DOWN TOWN SEATTLE AND MINE CLOSED UP! WTF? :EEK:

So the clips are ordered, and hopefully they wont mind helping me out by putting them on. Just a very dissapointing day.

So I figure in 6mo, I will either take it some where or try to jack up the front end like EVILUTION said.

ARRRRRRRRRRRRGH!

</RANT>
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oil life has no effect on MPG... If its dropped 10mpg then something else is wrong.....

However the oil pan drain does get tight, get a wrench with a pipe and crack it loose.
I dont have the tools, the money, or the strength to do that. I just dont. The top pump should have been sufficient.

And if something is wrong, then immediately after each oil change, its fixed again. I always loose MPG within 2 months before the service is done. The only time this didnt happen FOR SURE was last year, because I was getting crazy milage anyway. 60 mpg one tank.
 

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For all that aggravation it would be worth buying the oil & filter yourself and having a good local shop do the change. Should be around $15 and take 30 minutes or so. Not worth it to wear yourself out IMHO. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
For all that aggravation it would be worth buying the oil & filter yourself and having a good local shop do the change. Should be around $15 and take 30 minutes or so. Not worth it to wear yourself out IMHO. :)
Thats what Im thinking. But like I said, $36 for an oil change is ridiculous if you are doing it yourself. My wife got hers done for $16, but used dino oil and not synthetic.

Maybe its time to sell the car... its becoming less of an asset and more of a cost. At least until I find work.
 

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Around here if it's on sale you can get Mobil 1 and a filter for maybe $34 - got to look at what your time and well being are worth. Another $15 to have someone else save you all of this heartburn sounds like money well spent to me. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Around here if it's on sale you can get Mobil 1 and a filter for maybe $34 - got to look at what your time and well being are worth. Another $15 to have someone else save you all of this heartburn sounds like money well spent to me. :)
Im not saying its not money well spent, but when you are eating out of the food banks, and you are close to eviction, $15 is a lot.
 

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Perhaps there are baffles or something preventing the suction tube from reaching the bottom of the oil pan for your top-side oil change? This is common in many cars to prevent oil from sloshing around because of the crankshaft, and as a result, those cars aren't good candidates for top-side oil changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Perhaps there are baffles or something preventing the suction tube from reaching the bottom of the oil pan for your top-side oil change? This is common in many cars to prevent oil from sloshing around because of the crankshaft, and as a result, those cars aren't good candidates for top-side oil changes.
Between that, and the cold and having panels popping off so I had to fix them, thus cooling the oil down, Im sure its there. It only took 4 hours before, and I finished. 6, and there is still a 3rd of old oil there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
There is a way to retrofit the Fumoto valve. Basically, drill and tap the current drain plug. That's how I tap for my oil temp. Choose a fumoto valve of say about 10mm thread.
Have been using a "Fumoto" drain valve on my Honda Ridgeline for three years now and really like it. I slip a short hose on the nipple and just drain the used oil into an used one gallon plastic jug for disposal...no mess or cleanup. But as for the smart...don't think I'll try it due to the oil plug attached screen.
http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/f25/fumoto-oil-drain-valve-7873/

Im not sure I want to go through the mess of f'ing up my drain plug...

Never mind... looks like they fixed it... now I need job.
 

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http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/f25/fumoto-oil-drain-valve-7873/

Im not sure I want to go through the mess of f'ing up my drain plug...

Never mind... looks like they fixed it... now I need job.
They make a Fumoto that fits the smart, why tap it for a non-standard size? It's not listed as a smart plug, but for a different American vehicle that uses the same size and threads.

There is a simple way you can retrofit the smart screen to the Fumoto drain plug. But you have to be careful, as in stock form, it can obstruct the oil intake port, as the threads are longer on the Fumoto. I designed a fix so that the screen winds up in the same exact spot as with the original plug with no chance of obstructing the oil flow into the engine, and how to attach the screen to the Fumoto valve. You don't have to buy another screen. It can be removed from the smart plug and used on the Fumoto. Pic of my handywork attached. I "engineered" the thickness of the spacer and had to have them custom made as there is no stock size of that thickness with the correct size hole.
 

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· Dont Feed The Trolls ^Mod
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
They make a Fumoto that fits the smart, why tap it for a non-standard size? It's not listed as a smart plug, but for a different American vehicle that uses the same size and threads.

There is a simple way you can retrofit the smart screen to the Fumoto drain plug. But you have to be careful, as in stock form, it can obstruct the oil intake port, as the threads are longer on the Fumoto. I designed a fix so that the screen winds up in the same exact spot as with the original plug with no chance of obstructing the oil flow into the engine, and how to attach the screen to the Fumoto valve. You don't have to buy another screen. It can be removed from the smart plug and used on the Fumoto. Pic of my handywork attached. I "engineered" the thickness of the spacer and had to have them custom made as there is no stock size of that thickness with the correct size hole.
Well, that tears it. I just need to be gainfully employed to get it! Feels like I wasted my money on the pump. Now to get the drain plug off.

Claw hammer Tool Hammer Metalworking hand tool Framing hammer


Sent from my EVO using AutoGuide App
 

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I am looking forward to doing my Fumoto Oil change in about 500 miles. There is no need to spend 6 hours wearing yourself out once the Fumoto valve is in place.
good luck with the job hunt so you can get a fumoto valve soon. Sorry to hear of your hard times. I'm hoping your luck will change soon.
Rich
 
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