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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the infamous P0301 on my 2009 Brabus (about 75,000 miles). And I also have the classic turn it off and turn it back on and it runs smooth again (although this seems to have gotten progressively worse lately). So far I have run 3 tankfuls of Marvel Mystery Oil. And I also just swapped my ignition coils (switched from 3 to 1 and 1 to 3) and popped in a new spark plug (I had a spare). The spark plug that I removed appears normal and I'm not burning any oil. And I didn't find any rainbow colors in the oil (a sign of a blown head gasket). Has anyone found any other possibility (I'm dreading a bad cylinder or having the need for a valve job). Like I mentioned, when it begins to miss, I pull over and turn it off and turn it back on and the problem temporarily clears. Perhaps I have a bad fuel injector? I would appreciate anyone's input!

Thanks!

Rudy
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Joe (hopefully I got that right)!

I only swapped 1 to 3 and 3 to 1. I didn't touch the 2nd coil. Do you have some insight regarding coil #2?

Regards,

Rudy
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That thought did cross my mind. However if the good 3rd coil didn't solve the issue on cylinder #1 and the suspected coil #1 didn't fail on cylinder #3. That kind of ruled it out for me (this being a coil issue). However if you know of someone who had a similar situation and was able to swap an additional coil as you suggested and it worked? Please let me know. I appreciate your suggestions and input.

Thanks!
 

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If the swapping coils and changing a spark plug do not identify the issue with the misfire code, I would do a compression test. You may also want to drop a boroscope down into the cylinder and check the condition of the valves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was thinking of perhaps swapping the fuel injectors first? It appears it will cost me at least $160.00 to do a compression check? Will a boroscope squeeze into the 3rd cylinder? As I mentioned, my spark plug looks perfect and I'm burning zero oil.

Thanks!
 

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..I'm with Bob...do the test first...
...the valve damage in this engine is in the seat area....if it was the guide then you'll see the oil burning signs...

Jetfuel...tests are easy..
 

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You should be able to insert the camera on the boroscope into all of the smart plug holes. Make sure you get a scope with a light on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Would I only be able to see the piston, piston rings and cylinder wall? Or will I be able to capture the valves as well?

And thanks for your input!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
By the way, has anyone been successful in solving a misfire on their Smart Car by replacing the fuel injector?

Thanks!
 

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What happens on your Fortwo is the computer (ECU) detects a misfire. When it happens the computer turns off fuel to that cylinder so that the injector isn`t pumping raw gas from the cylinder out into the exhaust. When you shut the engine off and restart it then the computer enables the injector and the cylinder will run again until a misfire is detected and the whole process starts all over again. The computer on a Smart is very sensitive to misfires and can detect even a slight misfire. Run a compression test. If a cylinder reads low then squirt some oil into the cylinder and retest. The oil temporarily seals the rings. If the reading comes up significantly you have a ring problem. If it doesn`t come up then you more than likely have a valve problem. Some of these engines are prone to wearing out the valve guides so that the valve wobbles slightly and doesn`t seal. The result is a burned valve an/or valve seat. I bought my Smart with 36,700 miles on the odometer and within a few weeks I tore it down to replace burned valves and worn valve guides. DCO
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks Bob for your insight! When I googled this problem I came across your posts from several years ago. I'm going to try and check the compression next week with your suggestions. Did you drop the engine yourself? I have a place here in Los Angeles that does the head work (including replacing all the guides and valves for around $300.00 plus). The problem is trying to find someone affordable to drop the engine and swap out the head for me.
 

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Thanks Bob for your insight! When I googled this problem I came across your posts from several years ago. I'm going to try and check the compression next week with your suggestions. Did you drop the engine yourself? I have a place here in Los Angeles that does the head work (including replacing all the guides and valves for around $300.00 plus). The problem is trying to find someone affordable to drop the engine and swap out the head for me.
Are you a member of the So Cal Smarties. If not, please join at: www.meetup.com/socalsmarties. Once you are in, several independant shops that work on smart cars will be provided to you. What part of LA are you near? You do not need to lower the engine to do a compression test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi Bob! I'm in the San Gabriel Valley part of L.A. (with Pasadena being the most known city). As for dropping the engine, I was thinking worse case scenario, in case my engine failed the compression test. I'm the original owner of a 2009 Brabus. The only good sign is that I'm currently not burning any oil.

It's been so long I can't remember if I joined in the past? Either way I'll join up. I truly appreciate your support!
 

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Okay, you are close to where I reside. When you join So Cal Smarties, I will make sure you get a couple of names for independant shops that work smart cars.
 
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