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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys about a week ago my 2009 Smart Fortwo Passion threw code P2440 (Powertrain, Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Open bank1).
I did a little research on here and found out that it is pretty common with these cars. I got the part number and replaced the Electric Change Over Valve (part # A0025407097) posted in the below picture.




I then reset the ECU and the light stayed off for about 7 days with all being good until this morning.

After driving in the car for about 20 minutes it threw another code. This time P0410 (Powertrain, Secondary Air Injection System)

Where do I go from here :shrug: ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, all hoses are connected & no leaks as far as I can tell. The pump does start up when the car is cold started and runs maybe 10-20 seconds. The sound of the pump seems to be normal.
 

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Clear the codes again and see what happens. If the CEL comes on again, you will have to chase down the codes. You may want to try to locate an independent shop that has a Star Tester, that will assist you in locating the cause of your concern. Otherwise, the dealership service dept. would be your other option.
 

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For the secondary air injection system to work properly several things must happen. The ECU turns on the secondary air pump by way of a relay and the secondary air injection switch-over valve that you replaced. The switch-over valve sends vacuum to the secondary air injection diverter valve. The diverter valve is on a bracket on the back side of the engine. The two fat hoses below the oil fill cap and one of the vacuum lines from the switch-over valve go to the diverter valve. The purpose of the valve is to keep exhaust gases from going upstream into the secondary air pump when the system is not active. When the wide-band lambda sensor, or air/fuel sensor, becomes active on a cold start it sees a lean exhaust due to the secondary air injection to verify it is operating as designed. Anything that alters this sequence of events can cause a self-test failure and resultant fault code. The worst thing that can happen is the secondary air passages in the cylinder head become blocked. That condition can put one in a state known as deep doo-doo. Have fun.
 

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I had a CEL and a code (P0180?) which I looked for here and found "running rich" as the description. Of course, it went out before I got to the dealer for the 60,000 mile service. After the service (they didn't find anyting related to the rich running code) the CEL came on again. This time, the code was P0410. Everything I've seen says air pump. Haven't been back to the dealer service, but I do hear the pump run during a cold start.
Curious in Cleveland
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
For the secondary air injection system to work properly several things must happen. The ECU turns on the secondary air pump by way of a relay and the secondary air injection switch-over valve that you replaced. The switch-over valve sends vacuum to the secondary air injection diverter valve. The diverter valve is on a bracket on the back side of the engine. The two fat hoses below the oil fill cap and one of the vacuum lines from the switch-over valve go to the diverter valve. The purpose of the valve is to keep exhaust gases from going upstream into the secondary air pump when the system is not active. When the wide-band lambda sensor, or air/fuel sensor, becomes active on a cold start it sees a lean exhaust due to the secondary air injection to verify it is operating as designed. Anything that alters this sequence of events can cause a self-test failure and resultant fault code. The worst thing that can happen is the secondary air passages in the cylinder head become blocked. That condition can put one in a state known as deep doo-doo. Have fun.
That's a deep write up about whats going on RustedWrench and I appreciate it but do you have any information on how to fix it? Like where should I go from here? lol
Are you saying you think I should try a new diverter valve?
I definitely dont want the worst thing to happen! :wink:

I cleared the P0410 code as suggested by SmartBob. 24 hours/40 miles later hasn't come back on yet.

And stay tuned PerryA. Hopefully we can get you helped out as well.
 

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That's a deep write up about whats going on RustedWrench and I appreciate it but do you have any information on how to fix it? Like where should I go from here? lol
Are you saying you think I should try a new diverter valve?
I definitely dont want the worst thing to happen! :wink:

I cleared the P0410 code as suggested by SmartBob. 24 hours/40 miles later hasn't come back on yet.

And stay tuned PerryA. Hopefully we can get you helped out as well.
I can not tell you what will fix your car and I am not saying you should replace anything specific. I am telling you how the system works. At this point your choices are test the various components for proper operation or start throwing parts at it. The latter gets expensive, as anyone who took a car to a theoretical mechanic can tell you, but sometimes trying a part is the choice one is left with.

This all assumes your code reader or scan tool of choice gave you the correct code. :wink:
 

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My search term still comes up when I click search on the site - the first code I got was P2188. From what I've read, a 2 in the first numerical slot means it is make specific, so this is a smart code (or a Mercedes code). The P0410 is a standard code. I don't recall where I saw that the first code was 'running rich' so I don't know how accurate that observation is. I do know that when I cleared it on my ScanGauge, it came back and then I believe it went away without me clearing it (or I tried clearing it a second or third time and don't remember).

My frustration was that I had an appontment with the smart dealer and the code cleared before I got there. The way they described it, it sounded like there was no stored code. The local garage I asked to check the P0410 said there were stored codes - plural.

I have to make a trip that will be three hours or more each way, so I don't want to run into a problem or do any lasting damage. Timing sucks for taking the car in again or trying to check some of the things myself.

Thanks for all of this discussion, and I'll be following along.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Okay so I cleared the code 4 days ago and it came back on today. I ran a scan and Came up with 3 codes.

P0410 - Powertrain Secondary Air Injection System
P2440 - Powertrain Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Open bank1
U3FFF - Network

I'm using Torque Pro App for android and a ELM327 bluetooth dongle by the way.

I'm familiar with the two "P" codes obviously, but what the hell is a U3FFF!? lol My Torque Pro App listed it as Network. Weird, didn't have any other information on it. Either way back to square one again. Well I know the Electronic Air injection switch Valve shouldn't be malfunctioning because its brand new. What else can I try from here?

I read a thread where I guy replaced the below item witht the blue arrow pointing to it. What does this thing do haha?
 
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