Soda blasting is the least destructive method of cleaning and provides exceptional results.
I watched a demonstration where the surface was removed from a Coke can leaving just
the aluminum surface with no damage to the can whatsoever.
I would try brake parts cleaner first and if that didn't work, I would consider soda blasting followed up by a very careful cleaning to remove any media residue from the inside the parts. Cold Dip or carburetor cleaner which is basically carbolic acid would work as well on the aluminum pieces once all gaskets & seals have been removed so that you are only dipping the castings.
I don't know if having removable brass sludge traps in a forged steel crankshaft is a common thing, but Peugeots had that for a long time, from the 1940s through the 1980s. It's tempting not to remove the hex-headed brass plugs because they are staked in place and unstaking (reversing the damage to the thread is difficult and it's easy to damage the brass, in which case the plug will have to be drilled out. I am using a Dremel to do the unstaking. The first one I tried before the Dremel is now stuck. This one worked better.
You can see inside the trap, there is a medium grey deposit that looks as though it might be part of the casting is sludge, the consistency of slightly moist clay. There is not a lot of oil passage left clear and a couple of the oiling points on the front centre and rear mains were partially blocked too. Ao, if restoring a Peugeot engine if the XC or XM/XN series, don't skip this step!
I also got from Jean-Marc Faivre in France a free pair of the banjo fittings that my car has likely been missing for three years! Very generous!
the Peugeot 404 crankshaft sludge trap plugs are brass and have a large hex keyway. The threading into which they're screwed is staked, which damages the threads in one spot and so reversing that damage is required before they'll come out. I used a Dremel power tool with a dentist drill sized head to take the ridges off the threads by the staking.
The hex tool will work sometimes, allowing you to turn the thing all the way out, though it likely will be stiff as hell. In my case, this tool worked one in four times. The other three were immediately rounded.
So I took a different approach for those. I used a larger Dremel drill head to carve a small channel at each of the 6 corners of the hex depressions and then hammered a Torx-60 socket into place. Rammed it home!
Using this approach on the three jammed ones made removal easy.
I got a similar amount of sludge/paste out of all 4.
I find it interesting that the 2nd and 4th main bearings appear not to be pressure lubricated at all
I was wrong about the main bearings 2 and 4...it seems as though they were an afterthought following the 3 main bearing engine but they do indeed have pressured oiling from the block, just not internal canals inside the crankshaft. Serves me right for spending too much time staring at the crankshaft yesterday!
I picked up the vapour blasted parts this afternoon and took a few more photos. Very clean; the throttle body was disassembled by me for internal cleaning as well as the installation of new bearings.
Driving the old ones out was easy - remove two circlips on the shaft end, remove the throttle spring holder from the shaft after marking its position, unscrew the 4 staked screws on either side that hold the bearings, tap the shaft out with brass drift, tap the bearings out with a perfectly sized brass drift (there is the smallest of shoulders available to do that).
After its cleaned up I will reassemble it with the new bearings that you see in one of the photos. The old ones were shot, damaged by road salt I presume.
Throttle body is reassembled. The screws were staked at the factory because the distance between the two plates determines the clearance between the throttle body and the throttle plate. The large round inserts assure the air seal. I didn't stake the screws but I did put blue Loctite on them. The plates are snug to the throttle body but the screws are not "tight" but just touching the chamfered recesses in the two plates. Now that it is all together, the throttle action is magnificently smooth!
I also took the wrong fuel filter for blasting so the vapour blaster guy will do the "correct" one for free on Wednesday! The inside of the filter bowl that he blasted has severe rust pitting and the "correct" one does not.
The first Purflux fuel filter assembly I had vapour blasted was the wrong one (from a wreck that had a lot of undrained water inside it) and it had very deep pitting cavities inside the bowl as a result. So the blasting shop offered to do another better one. This happened today and the result is much better mainly because the inside of the canister was far less affected by corrosion. You can see both here, with the better canister on the far right.
I got my second set of 0.5 mm oversized main bearings from Israel today. The first set (with the half red/half blue label) from Peugeot Classic in France had chattering marks on two or three of the shells from improper storage in the distant past. The Israel-sourced ones are excellent!
My 404's original heater tube, which takes hot coolant from the water pump to the heater core is beyond repair. The carbureted engines have a similar tube but its secondary water outlet is in a totally different location. However, the only new one available is for the carbureted engine, so I bought one of them at DEPANOTO and will have it modified in a local welding shop to adapt to the Injection engine format.
I had the old bit of pipe that leads to the injection system thermostat (cold start/supplemental air valve) cut off the old pipe and welded to the new one. The extra take-off on the shank (for the carbureted car) is still there but I will block it off with a rubber dead end clamped to it.
...all I can say is wow...what a labor of love
...I know you only have two seasons....here comes winter and winter...so at the pace you're going it could be done in time for next year's here comes winter.....
..the coolest thing about such an endeavor is that you'll tell people "yep...I did that"
Well that tube in the post above has been stripped of paint and is going into the plating shop Monday with a whole bunch of other stuff:
throttle body parts (just little stuff)
another batch of fasteners - I hope, the last
other small bits and pieces
fuel injection pipes
Also, I removed the three oil gallery plugs from the engine block today in preparation for its hot tanking in the shop I'm taking it to on Monday. They're brass and the square heads are a tiny bit smaller than a 1/4 inch drive. So I took a lower quality 1/4 inch drive and filed it until it fit. The first one on the rear of the block came out easily. The second one I tried, on the front of the block by the cam, stripped immediately (the square hole was rounded). The third one came out beautifully.
The front one that stripped was not all that much of a worry. I got a T-55 socket and used a Dremel to turn the formerly square but now rounded hole into an approximation of a Torx. I hammered the T-55 home and used a huge breaker 1/2 inch drive bar to turn it out. No worries.
Here is the sole rear oil gallery plug that turned out beautifully with my "special tool":
Also going to the machine shop tomorrow is the following:
new cylinder head - for fitting of hardened valve seats
new piston and liner kit, for cleaning off the preservative and mounting the new pistons to the rods, plus a hone of the liners
connecting rods so the small end bushings can be replaced with the new ones I have, and also hot tanked to clean the crud off them
crankshaft for assessment and grinding/polishing
NOS camshaft to clean the preservative off and check the clearances in the block (with the possibility of a line bore and bearing bush installation if required - I hope it's not)
0.3 mm oversized rod bearing shells
0.3 mm and 0.5 mm oversized main bearing shells
bearing caps and rocker arms and rocker shaft holders, for hot tanking and assessment of the rocker arms - new rocker shafts are supplied
Once all this is done we will be on the home stretch. With the block ready, I can paint it and then start reassembly.
Yep, winter project, that's what it is all right! The stuff to be plated is at Victoria Plating and the engine bits that have to be (nearly all) are at Anderson's Machine Shop, which is where this photo was taken this afternoon.
The crankshaft will be balanced by itself first, then again successively with each accessory that is attached to it once all is done.
I got a call from Anderson Precision Engines in Saanichton BC today. They have cleaned and checked all the steel and iron 404 engine parts using a magnaflux machine. Good news: the crank is good, the block is good, rods are good.
Scope of work:
regrind and polish crankshaft, install sludge traps, balance it
replace valve seats and grind new valves to suit
replace small end bushes and fit to wrist pins/pistons
paint outside of engine block
re-bush all 8 rocker arms and match to new rocker shafts, reface their valve contact surfaces
clean preservative off the cylinder liners and new camshaft
reface flywheel, balance it alone, then on the crankshaft and then with the pressure plate
All of this is going to lead to a significant bill, but well under $2K CAD with taxes, so not crazy high. They do reassembly too but I think at this point that I'll do that myself.
This shop does the engine work for Coachwerks and Rudi & Co. in the old days - so they're good. It'd be nice to get it all back before the end of 2020 and then the end of this 32 year project will be in sight!
4 NOS intake valves are on their way from Britain. I realized a couple of weeks ago that I only had three new ones and so I decided to get a set of 4 so I have some spares. They should arrive in a week or so. Meanwhile, this coming Monday the pressure plate, clutch disc, flywheel bolts, timing gear and the Woodruff keys from the crankshaft head down to Anderson's for the follow-up work. I'll run the intake valves down then I get them, because they have to be cut to match the new valve seats.
.....”They do reassembly too but I think at this point that I'll do that myself...”
...I know how you feel...you can’t wait to get your hands on it...
...believe Mike...as an engine builder (45+years) I’ll suggest to carry the warranty that comes from all their work...
...either way we can wait for you to enjoy the fruits of your labor...
There are so many weird things with this engine....for example....the cylinder liners go into the block with a certain orientation that's not dead obvious, the pistons are offset.....I sort of trust myself more with this stuff. I'll see them on Monday and we will talk some more.
Friday I arranged with Hagerty for the insurance to be reset to a higher agreed value of $80K CAD - I sent them these two photos to give them an idea that it's nearly together.
This weekend is a long one for me with Monday off so we will head to Saanichton to bring some more bits to the engine shop: pressure plate, woodruff keys and timing gear (pulley is still in the plating shop) and flywheel bolts. The 4 new old stock intake valves are on their way from Dean Hunter in England but won't be here by Monday so I'll have to run them down later.
If the pulley's not plated by Monday noon I'll bring another one I have down with me and probably offer it to the shop for the balancing procedure, and use it on the engine.