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Discussion Starter #81
Third batch of cadmium plating is done by Victoria Plating Ltd. They also polished about half of the car's stainless steel trim. The other half will be done later.




The SS trim was snapped into place on the door frames and the beltline trim was provisionally slid into place too.

 

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Discussion Starter #84
Drilled 4 holes in the front fenders for the stainless steel trim - which was necessary because Peugeot's NOS fenders don't have holes pre-drilled and I forgot to ask the restorer to do it. After drilling, they were treated with ZINGA (99,9% Zn) and painted with body colour. I also mounted the front hood rubber buffers, which also required drilling!







Apart from that, a couple of weeks ago I mounted the Pininfarina door jamb wedges with the new clear plastic gaskets I got from Peugeot in France:



Then a couple days later, a few more parts went in for cadmium plating: hood latch, a few bolts etc and the clips that hold the rear quarter windows in. The front fender stainless steel strips will also be polished by the same shop.






Today I installed the rubber flaps (which I had to remake) for the front inner fenders, which are intended to keep the mud out of the back of the front fenders.

I also derusted three of the rear brake lines and painted them. I may remake one or all of them, but I wanted to inspect them carefully first.

In just over two weeks, we will be in Japan for our son's wedding so work will stop until mid-May.
 

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Discussion Starter #85


Latest batch of plating, including engine hood latch, support mount for SEV wiper motor, three of the four decent used front suspension bolts (spare, but with better plating than the new Peugeot-supplied ones I have installed), and of course the 10 rear side window trim clips.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Sunday I finally resumed work on the 404C after about two months!

The passenger door side window winder cable went in beautifully, and after winding the handle back and forth several times, the cable settled and the winder did about 8.5 complete revolutions. OK, good!

So then the driver's door, with the winder given to me by Nick Angiuli from Florida went in. It seems that it was sort of wound improperly on the drum because I could only get 5 turns in. So I removed it again and wound it back and forth with the cable tensioned over a round metal part of my vise.

Eventually I got 8.5 turns and then carefully held the cables near the drum while reinstalling. Mounted in the car, it had 8.5 turns to the handle! Woo-hoo!

The next stage is to get new tracking for the window glass and then to attach the window carriers to the cables. That should be a bit of work, but I am not dreading it like I was Sunday's job.



 

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Discussion Starter #87


The photo above is of a Jaeger sports instrument panel for the 404C that was sold as an accessory in the 1960s. I have wanted one for a long time and so now, but they are rarely for sale and when they are, the cost is very high, 1000+ Euros.

So I have been looking to make one myself, using Canadian versions of these same gauges from the same era (or just afterwards, late 1960s). In this case I have put together five of the six necessary gauges, as shown below:



The speedometer with trip odometer is from a Renault 8 Gordini, Canadian version, as are the battery and temperature *F gauges. The rev counter is from a Renault 8S from Canada, which has a redline at 6200
RPM which is about correct for a 404 Injection. The fuel gauge is also from the 8S, but identical to that fitted to the Gordini.

Now all I need is an oil pressure gauge to match, and them to make a plate to receive all the gauges.

However, when the 404C is first assembled I will be using the original instruments. This one will be added a few years later.
 

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Discussion Starter #88



A couple of weeks ago I managed to get the passenger door lock installed and working, something that eluded me last time. Then I put the side glass in and tried rolling it up, and the cables were binding on the winding drum so it would not go up more than halfway.

Recognizing that the previous installation was not done properly*:(*, I had to take it out. The drum that has the cable windings on it was a total mess, a rat's nest of tangles. I spent about 90 minutes*doing random stuff to it like un-looping cable, not fully knowing what I was doing. But in the end I got the drum wound properly - one end of the cable on one side of the drum and the other end on the other, with five windings of cable over the drum in between. Holding it carefully I reinstalled it in the door and then installed the glass again (1 hour's work there) and it works!

A week ago I put the upper stainless steel trims (freshly polished) on the rear 1/4 windows. The clips that hold them on are not spring steel but rather have to be bent into shape. While doing this, the screwdriver slipped and I did some unintended surgery on my left index finger joint, grinding into the nerve. Getting better now but it was quite nasty, The car was uninjured, most importantly!




Last week I also got the matching 12V oil pressure gauge!* Now they all need a cleaning and I have to make up a plate to mount them (and 5 warning lights too).

 

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Discussion Starter #90




I was dreading removing for the second time the driver's side window winder cables to reseat them properly. It went reasonably well. As did the installation of the window tracking. The nightmare was installing the interior door opener - getting the clip on to the door latch, blind and inside the door was "fun". I also installed the door lock. Installing the glass is a pain too. Ugh, glad it's over.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
This past weekend:


Installed passenger side vent window with the new gasket....


Record rear dampers installed. Wish I could get Peugeot rears but I can't...the wheels are old ones with ancient tires - the new Michelin XAS tires are safely stored on their powdercoated wheels.


Driver's side vent window installed with new gasket


Lower rear 1/4 window trim installed - I had to drill my new rear fender skin panel (on the flange) to make that happen !!
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Some recent work on the 404C, last weekend and just today:




Clearcoat on the Carrosserie Peugeot plate.




For reassembly, I used the original insulation as a template to cut Dynamat Xtreme panels, mounted the Dynamat and then glued the original insulation to it.




Heater core with the ancestor of modern "set and forget" heat level - thermostatically controlled water valve.




Heater core box is mounted in the car with new foam to seal between the air intake in the bodyshell and the bakelite box.




Wiper mechanism mounted - both spindle assemblies are brand new.
 

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...I was wandering what you were up to...
...excellent work...the data plate is awesome...tells a lot about a car..
...keep it up and keep the updates coming...it's a great way to keep the mind and hands busy...

Jetfuel...spring is just around the corner..
 

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Discussion Starter #94


The spray nozzles also were added. Trivia about the 404C is that you really have to take the heater box out to get these puppies screwed into the panel at the base of the windshield. So I took the heater box that I had just bolted in back out again (3 minutes work), installed the jets and then reinstalled the heater box. You can imagine that it's not a fun job if the car is all together!
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Together at last: 6 Jaeger France gauges in MPH and degrees F ( but the oil pressure is in bar - luckily I am bilingual ;) ) plus the 5 original warning lights that make up part of the sports instrument panel for the 404 Coupé and Cabriolet. The sports instrument panel I have the equipment for will go in once the car has been on the road for a while. Now I have to get two or three of these gauges refurbished and have a metal plate to hold them made up.


When the 404C goes back on the road, it will be with this - its original instrument panel. I tidied it up recently - took it apart, cleaned it, repainted the fuel tank and temperature gauge needles. The car was sold when new in Canada, hence the MPH speedometer. The 120 MPH scale was particular to the Injection version. The car came with an alternator so the "battery" gauge is a thermal voltmeter.


New rubber parts for the wiper motor:


February 3rd the Instrument panel connected - the wiring as built in my car is very different than the wiring diagram:


The instrument panel installed. Ventilator switch is now mounted on the dashboard rather than the SOFICA heater box:
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Last bit of work done at Victoria Plating Ltd:

The 4 holes that a previous owner had punched into the sill/rocker panel embellishment strips when the captive bolts rusted off decades ago were welded shut and the outside was polished so this patching work became invisible; the two upper rear fender trims were de-dented and then polished; cadmium plating on the headliner trim panels which are covered with soft headliner material. This was done because they could rust as the originals did and that distorts the fabric as the iron oxide builds up; and finally the hardware for the handbrake components under the car were replated in yellow cadmium.

 

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Discussion Starter #99
Recent updates...



I bought a different set of rubber isolators for the wiper motor and drive, because it's in a colour that more closely matches the latex rubber original. The pale red ones in the photo will be used in the 404C and the others will be spare parts. All the red ones are in what seems to be silicone rubber so should handily outlive the originals.




A spare new old stock window winder for the 404C. There are two good (I think they are!) used ones in the car, so this is my reserve.



I finally got the steering column mounted. Instead of the flector I used a Paulstra Septor for the pinion link.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
The handbrake cable and control were assembled and mounted today, along with the pedal box.

The worst part of the whole operation was discovering that the buttress under the driver's side, which is a Peugeot original from a later model 404, has a captive stud that is about 6 mm too short to hold the metal handbrake sheath under the driver's floor. So I had to remove the brass clamp and reduce its thickness by about 3 mm on both sides using a Dremel and files (good old engineering on this part, with massive redundancy) in order to get it on.

The pedal box was dead easy of course and the stuff under the car was as well.





 
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